Engine problem. Sell truck, rebuild/replace motor?

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Scooterwrench

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Thanks guys. While most shops/dealerships around here have said no to working on the truck (too old they say!), there is a local mechanic that has told me he can do an engine remove/replace. The good news, my wife gave me the ok to spend up to $10k if I need to. :driver:
10 G's will buy you a nice mill.
 

someotherguy

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Nice truck!


If they can't do an engine swap on this truck, that's a warning sign about their competence.
Agreed, that or they simply aren't equipped (and that's the same end result.) No OBD-I experience or compatible diagnostic tools, and also possibly afraid of anything else that may go wrong or need replacing driving the price up - not that they don't want the money, just probably avoiding the hassle. But yes, when they tell you they can't/won't do it, believe them and move along. :)

Richard
 

Jimmy D

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The mileage isn't all that high. It looks way too nice over and under to be experiencing a blown engine. It just doesn't add up. Was it ran low of oil? Over heated? Are you sure about the rod and main bearings? If it was knocking it could have a cracked flexplate. It can sound just like a rod knock, believe me.
 

someotherguy

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If it was knocking it could have a cracked flexplate. It can sound just like a rod knock, believe me.
Been there, done that. Cracked all the way around the crank flange, came off in two pieces. Little circle and big circle, LOL. Almost nobody believes they fail this way, and that they can often knock on cold start but go quiet once it's spun a few times, and quiet on warm re-starts; won't knock again until next cold start.

Richard
 

Jimmy D

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Yes. Something else I've seen is flexplate bolts working loose and hammer hard like a rod knock. I had one that wore the bolt holes oblong, had to replace the flexplate. A couple years back my 06 Sierra developed what sounded like a hard lifter tick. I sourced it down to the bell housing area. Turned out it was 1 torque converter bolt had backed out and was bumping the engine block. Removed starter and tightened it with a wrench.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Agreed, that or they simply aren't equipped (and that's the same end result.) No OBD-I experience or compatible diagnostic tools, and also possibly afraid of anything else that may go wrong or need replacing driving the price up
^^^This or, they don't want to take up the floor space where they can turn around multiple, higher margin, jobs. ;) My son does those (not GMT 400s) quite often at his place of work now (mostly high end stuff since he's in Scottsdale now) and used to do them at Brakes Plus but, getting it done properly at a franchise is a hit and miss situation depending on each shop.
 

Good Sport

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Ok, here's an update. First, the trans was rebuilt and flexplate/TC were replaced 2 years ago, no probs with those. Also, this truck was never run low on oil, so that should not have been the cause of the original knock. The front main and #1 & #2 rod bearings had noticeable wear (and journals). I replaced all main & rod bearings, tidied up the journals best I could, and installed a new oil pump. All was fine, until a few days later, when I replaced the fan belt with one that appears to have been too short (96-1/16"). That's when a faint knock returned.

Today, I put on a correct size belt (Goodyear 96.8"). Also, after the bearing repair, I had put in some 10w-30 Valvoline to flush the engine. This morning, I went back to Shell T5 15w-40 oil, which I have been using for a few years. The good news, the knock is gone! So, right now all is well, and apparently my repair was ok. I'm going to drive the truck lightly for a while and see how things go. Thanks for the advice and comments!
 
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