Drunkcanuks build...... finally!!!

[Sean Buick 76]

Noooooooooo......no machine shop needed!!!
Stop jinxing me!!!! Lol

Thanks for the tip, there is a machine shop literally a 2min drive from me. But I won't need them either!!! Lol

When I looked into going 383, went in and talked to him. Was somewhere around $800 go through the block, cleaning, inspecting, line honed, bored and clearanced for the crank. Seemed like a reasonable price as compared to others saying a few grand for the same work.

Yes for sure i promptly tossed my last machine shop receipt before the woman could see it lol.

 

[KansasOBS]

resize the rods as needed, dial bore indicator to read the inside diameter with the bearing in place and rod journals ground to get the specific oil clearance.

Can the cracked cap LS rods even be resized? Unless a person finds a bearing with a larger O.D. which Im not sure is made, I dunno how that would work. Traditionally the flats are shaved, then the center recut.


Ya'll are blowing my mind, if you're not putting cam bearings in. Factory LS cam bearings are the suck. Crappy split design. You can even do them yourself with the proper tool. There is no way in hell I would go this far in, and not do cam bearings.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

I use Herche, Molnar, Manley, or Crower rods not stockers.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Can the cracked cap LS rods even be resized? Unless a person finds a bearing with a larger O.D. which Im not sure is made, I dunno how that would work. Traditionally the flats are shaved, then the center recut.


Ya'll are blowing my mind, if you're not putting cam bearings in. Factory LS cam bearings are the suck. Crappy split design. You can even do them yourself with the proper tool. There is no way in hell I would go this far in, and not do cam bearings.

Don't know about resizing, I sure as hell ain't going that far I'll promise you that! Lol

As for the bearings, it's been pretty well documented that they can last for a ton of miles. I have done a fair amount of reading on this subject, and overall the consensus is just leave them be unless they look all beat up. As this isn't going to be a daily, the amount of millage they will see will be significantly less. And if they do get replaced, it will be with factory GM ones as the aftermarket options have different metallurgy voodoo going on that doesn't last as well as OEM, and can prematurely wear out camshafts.

I will do my due diligence on replacing them, but it is not something I'm going to go out of the way to do if the don't HAVE to be replaced.

And hey, if the motor piles up later, seams like a hell of an reason to stroke the thing. Lol

 

[KansasOBS]

Don't know about resizing, I sure as hell ain't going that far I'll promise you that! Lol

As for the bearings, it's been pretty well documented that they can last for a ton of miles. I have done a fair amount of reading on this subject, and overall the consensus is just leave them be unless they look all beat up. As this isn't going to be a daily, the amount of millage they will see will be significantly less. And if they do get replaced, it will be with factory GM ones as the aftermarket options have different metallurgy voodoo going on that doesn't last as well as OEM, and can prematurely wear out camshafts.

I will do my due diligence on replacing them, but it is not something I'm going to go out of the way to do if the don't HAVE to be replaced.

And hey, if the motor piles up later, seams like a hell of an reason to stroke the thing. Lol

Yeah, Id not throw a set in if they looked good. I suppose I was quick to the replacment thought, because I haven't pulled an LS apart that I haven't seen some copper in a cam bearing.

Durabonds are usually the go to.

 

[Drunkcanuk]

Yeah, Id not throw a set in if they looked good. I suppose I was quick to the replacment thought, because I haven't pulled an LS apart that I haven't seen some copper in a cam bearing.

Durabonds are usually the go to.

All good man, I know you're just looking out for me! LOL
And honestly, I'd probably give someone else the same damn advice!!!
Your already this far in, just do the right thing! Lol
And I most likely will. It's only $$$ right!!
And woman said "do it right" so who am I to argue? Lol

 

[blancohippo]

What's even classier is the spare mounted up on the left side step. You would have to notch the left fender. With a little cutting and welding you could move the gas door back behind the left fender or just cut a hole and insert a grommet and have the filler pipe stick up with a chrome gas cap like they did it in the 40's and 50's.

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looks like a 181 or 211 loader...i used to be the only one at Kubota that built the mainframes and sideframes for those for many years...

 

[Drunkcanuk]

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Didn't do anything this weekend as I had to work both days and never got home.
Swung by my buddies the other day for a visit and left with these goodies.

They sent him the wrong cover for his Firebird so he still kept this on his shelf for years. He figures it should fit my 10".

And he had the little fuse block left over from his LS swap into his Ford. So I shouldn't have to put the big ass one I pulled into mine, so that's cool.

Hopefully next weekend I can get back and tear the rest of the engine down, deglaze the cylinders and clean up the carbon buildup on the pistons and heads. And hopefully enjoy a few more drives in the truck while the weather is still decent. It's September, and technically it can snow anytime it wants now. But the 2 week lookaheads are not showing anything.....yet.