Drunkcanuks build...... finally!!!

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Drunkcanuk

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You can re use the bottom end bolts no issue there. I’m sure the bear tings can be re used too as long as they look happy.
Trickiest part is going to be keeping everything organized so it gets back to its original location!!!!
Cautiously optimistic as when I pulled the one rod cap off, it looked like it came fresh out of the package. I was happy with that for sure.
 

Sean Buick 76

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Trickiest part is going to be keeping everything organized so it gets back to its original location!!!!
Cautiously optimistic as when I pulled the one rod cap off, it looked like it came fresh out of the package. I was happy with that for sure.
Use zip ties to add “flagging information tags” to parts to add information. Write on them with a permanent marker. If you want to borrow my tap and die set you can number the main caps and add arrows to show “front” for the mains for example. The main bolts that are the same length don’t have to be in the same holes but it couldn’t hurt to keep them with the caps. It use an engraver to add information to the parts.

While others add new bearings even if the old ones look ok I leave well enough alone and re use them if they are happy now they will be happy after.

Or if I find badly worn bearings I skip right to machining all the crank journals for oversized bearings. If going that far I have the blocks mains align honed, bearings installed, mains torqued without the crank, measured on each journal so the crank can be index ground to get the exact bearing clearances on each journal. Same for the rods, switch to ARP bolts, resize the rods as needed, dial bore indicator to read the inside diameter with the bearing in place and rod journals ground to get the specific oil clearance.

Many people just cut the journals 10 under and toss in 10 thou oversized bearings, but it’s a short cut.
 
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Drunkcanuk

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Use zip ties to add “flagging information tags” to parts to add information. Write on them with a permanent marker. If you want to borrow my tap and die set you can number the main caps and add arrows to show “front” for the mains for example. The main bolts that are the same length don’t have to be in the same holes but it couldn’t hurt to keep them with the caps. It use an engraver to add information to the parts.

While others add new bearings even if the old ones look ok I leave well enough alone and re use them if they are happy now they will be happy after.

Or if I find badly worn bearings I skip right to machining all the crank journals for oversized bearings. If going that far I have the blocks mains align honed, bearings installed, mains torqued without the crank, measured on each journal so the crank can be index ground to get the exact bearing clearances on each journal. Same for the rods, switch to ARP bolts, resize the rods as needed, dial bore indicator to read the inside diameter with the bearing in place and rod journals ground to get the specific oil clearance.

Many people just cut the journals 10 under and toss in 10 thou oversized bearings, but it’s a short cut.
Thanks for the tips. I'm sure Dad has a number punch set.
Sooooooooo scared to go farther, because I don't want it ending up in a machine shop!!! Lol
 

Sean Buick 76

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Thanks for the tips. I'm sure Dad has a number punch set.
Sooooooooo scared to go farther, because I don't want it ending up in a machine shop!!! Lol
Don’t worry friends don’t let friends go to machine shops.

Except me, don’t bring me around your projects unless you are prepared to spend money to do it right.
 

Drunkcanuk

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Don’t worry friends don’t let friends go to machine shops.

Except me, don’t bring me around your projects unless you are prepared to spend money to do it right.
My bank account will keep you "checked" lol
I'm somewhere between Roadkill and *****'n Rides. Lol
Crown Royal taste, on a No Name Cola budget! Lol
 

Drunkcanuk

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Alberta cylinder head in Edmonton did my 350 machine work very quickly and the measurements were spot on. So if you need machine work consider them.
Noooooooooo......no machine shop needed!!!
Stop jinxing me!!!! Lol

Thanks for the tip, there is a machine shop literally a 2min drive from me. But I won't need them either!!! Lol

When I looked into going 383, went in and talked to him. Was somewhere around $800 go through the block, cleaning, inspecting, line honed, bored and clearanced for the crank. Seemed like a reasonable price as compared to others saying a few grand for the same work.
 
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