Door latch mechanism functions? Parts blowup?

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RichLo

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Ha... I just played this game too on a 99!! Closed door and neither handle worked. The window was stuck down so it was easy to come down to the latch from above with a long rod to push down on the latch mechanism that the outdoor handle's latch rod usually pushes down on. It's the vertical rod for the outdoor handle directly above where that inside red arrow is pointing. Same latching mechanism but different pressure point. I think I am saying the same thing as @RichLo was saying about that rod #7, but even if if that rod was still in position, it should be able to be pushed down with more force than our crappy outdoor handles can do.

Do the early doors have a door vent under the latch? Super easy to work the latch out through there if so.

Thank you, I was wondering where that outside handle rod went. Like I said its just flopping around now and I didn't see where it came from. When I get the door off I'll try to take some pictures for future readers and explain how to rebuild a door easier than what we are dealing with.
 

Keeper

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Thank you, I was wondering where that outside handle rod went. Like I said its just flopping around now and I didn't see where it came from. When I get the door off I'll try to take some pictures for future readers and explain how to rebuild a door easier than what we are dealing with.
It drops into a centering hole on that lever, the "bulb" on the rod itself does the pushing down

Though I'd get out there today -- was feeling reinvigorated and half-way hoping/expecting success getting door open, VIA -> pressing on either of the 'latching mechanism' rod end parts -- plus some penetrating liquid quite possibly.

Not going for getting the panel/regulator totally off as with the door closed that could be messy I'm guessing.

OH - i think it was 95 for sure that they changed the interior some. I saw a youtube vid by AA Auto (?), the blue intro screen vids - was very good vid and i noticed, i think, for one, the power window wiring was was easier to get out of the 3 switches from the back.

When the latching mechanism is mangled or immovable (door lock rod) AND when the actual latch that hits the striker is WELL SHUT i figure it's a real problem - would love to be dumb-wrong. I've been on it for quite some whiles, much disassembly (with door shut) and no matter how much i try to get the rod to move no luck. OPTIMISTIC THOUGH.

Will write properly after tomorrow's attempts.
currently 2:30 a.m. westcoast - and a quick note.
Make sure it is unlocked first
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I had a similar thing happen on Rawhide the crew cab, also on the front passenger door. I had replaced the inside handle assemblies on the Burb, but hadn't been into the doors more than that. I knew the inside handle assembly was not working properly on this truck, because it never locked or unlocked with the slider, like the other 3 doors do. So I took everything apart to replace the inside handle, then the door decided to not be lockable with the key a few days later. Didn't want to have my truck and everything inside it vulnerable, so I went to the local LKQ and fortunately they had some 400s to look at.
My trucks are power windows and locks, but the basic linkage is the same (to the best of my observation). Once I played with a few doors at the yard, and saw how they're supposed to operate, I took my truck back apart to see about fixing it. What happened on mine, was the lock actuator was going out, and froze in the OPEN position. That little L bar in the illustration, because it was trapped by the frozen actuator, wasn't allowing the lock cylinder end to move enough to lock the door. I was able to pop the L bar's end out of the actuator grommet, and now the rod moves enough for the door to be locked and unlocked with the key from outside, or the slider from inside. Power locks still don't work (I know I have at least two bad actuators) but my truck is secure again.
There are little plastic guides for both link rods, and any lubricant they had from the factory is long gone. I used spray white lithium grease on mine; it's messy but it works.
Edit: all work was done with the window up, I did remove most of the 7mm head screws that hold the window access panel on, to be able to get my arm in there. There's also one at the front lower corner that's a 10mm head.
 

RichLo

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Hey, im working on the door and I got the wrong part for the broken window track. Does anybody know how to get the piece pictured?
 

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RichLo

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It's not the 'drivers side window track' on rock auto. Thats pictured here
 

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RichLo

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LMC window lift channel 39-6336 In stock $22.95
THANK YOU...THANK YOU...THANK YOU!!!

Just ordered it. More pics and descriptions with the full door breakdown and rebuild soon.

On a side note, I got the latch in and the outside handle works so I can at least put the door back on and tape up the window until that part shows up
 

RichLo

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For future reference here is the website that I found that part and it shows a great breakdown of all of the internal window parts

 

Grady

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I'm attaching to this thread as it's a latch issue and the images are already here. My 88 Silverado's issue began with the left inside door release not returning completely as if a return spring was missing although it still works the latch to get out of the truck. Next the outside latch stopped opening the door. I removed the door panel and can see the rod #7 [in the breakdown in post #7 above] still attached to the outside handle but not connected to anything at the latch end and can't tell where it was attached. I also don't see where anything has broken off and no parts in the bottom of the door cavity. It has power windows that work fine and power locks that don't work though they aren't frozen. The locks do work manually. It would be nice if the locks work but even nicer if I could open the driver's door from the outside. Do I need a new latch? I thought about pulling the metal panel off to get a better look but what about the glass and wiring?
 

Keeper

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I'm attaching to this thread as it's a latch issue and the images are already here. My 88 Silverado's issue began with the left inside door release not returning completely as if a return spring was missing although it still works the latch to get out of the truck. Next the outside latch stopped opening the door. I removed the door panel and can see the rod #7 [in the breakdown in post #7 above] still attached to the outside handle but not connected to anything at the latch end and can't tell where it was attached. I also don't see where anything has broken off and no parts in the bottom of the door cavity. It has power windows that work fine and power locks that don't work though they aren't frozen. The locks do work manually. It would be nice if the locks work but even nicer if I could open the driver's door from the outside. Do I need a new latch? I thought about pulling the metal panel off to get a better look but what about the glass and wiring?
If I understand correctly, it's the pink rod in the pic below that is hanging loose, right? That is the exterior latch rod #7, as you said, but it is only labeled correctly on the left side. It's easier to see where it goes in the right side version, where they have interior latch rod numbered as #7 (instead of #15 as it is on the left side) and left the real #7 unlabeled (pink rod). They are both door handle rods, but not the same rods. The exterior latch rod drops into a hole on an arm that operates the latch mechanism. You can see the hole from above with window down. If both of your latch rods are having issues, it is very possible that the latch itself needs replaced as without a proper spring tension, I can see how that arm would fall away from the exterior latch rod and leave it hanging. It also explains why your interior handle is also acting like you lost a spring, but the way it attaches it won't just fall out like the exterior one.

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