Broke down again away from home. P0336 crank sensor code.

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Road Trip

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Road Trip, thank you for the very thorough explanation. I really do appreciate it.

Glad that I could help. I know what it's like to try to prioritize what needs to be done now
vs what can be deferred, and then when you go out on the internet you see all these
conflicting claims of why it must be done asap, stealerships charging $$$ to clear this
code in a couple of minutes, etc...while others just slap in a new part and have no further issue?

We're busy moving furniture and building animal pens and such, so I'm being brief.

Truck felt like it ran a little sluggish at first, but then picked up after a few hours. I'm assuming it was doing its fuel relearn as I had the battery disconnected. This is a very subjective feeling and it may have been normal and I was just not pushing it hard due to nerves.

Copy that. I concur with your conclusion, sounds like your Closed Loop setup is working as designed,
taking the Open Loop starting point and learning/compensating around parts still serviceable yet no longer
in assembly line fresh condition.

It's running well enough that I'm not going to do a crank sensor relearn while we're still moving. When I get around to fixing the stuck O2 sensor and other minor fixes, I'll probably do it then.

In some of the EFI tuning forums it's been stated that the CASE relearn does not affect daily operation, but
instead is only used to accuratize the cylinder misfire reporting algorithm. On the other hand, I have read
conflicting reports that it *did* either clear phantom misfire counts or actually improved the driveability of
the engine?

For what it's worth I'm going to experiment on my own '99 C2500 with the Vortec big block. I currently
have no SES light, and using the existing CMP & CKP sensors I will set the CMP retard to 0°. Then I will
change the CKP sensor, and then recheck the CMP retard value. IF there is no change in this sync measurement,
then that will be my first discovery. I'll then proceed to monitor the fuel trims, misfire counts, timing advance
at 65mph, etc., and try to come up with a usable baseline.

And then finally I will perform a CASE relearn, and gather the same data again.

If there's no observable change, then I guess I'll have to side with the 'diagnostic only' crowd.

But IF these parameters do change after the CASE relearn, then this would tell me that the
improved CKP signal accuracy is also used to improve everyday operation.

Time will tell. This stuff really intrigues me, and I've decided to spend invest in a collection of
diagnostic bits. Book learning is good, but proving/disproving stuff like this based upon real world
experience is much more gratifying/adds insight to the computer managed side of my internal
combustion belief system. :0)

Anyway, best of luck with your move. And although I don't act in any official capacity in this forum, it's nice
to have you aboard as a fellow Supporting Member. And your moving adventures are good mental practice for
yours truly, for I will also be moving using my truck in the near term. (ie: I want to swap in a
new CKP sensor, for the one in there looks to have been there since it first drove off the assembly line.
If I do this right, I will have a new 'proven-good' one in place, plus a 'tested good' used spare CKP sensor
under the seat, along with a 'tested good' ICM, rotor, cap, etc.)

So thanks for sharing your road warrior stories, for it's gotten me to think a bit more like a prepper and less
like my 25 year old truck simply owes me no downtime on the side of the road because I own the thing. :0)

Safe travels --
 
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df2x4

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* '96-'97 GMT400 Vortec VCMs don't have the P1336 DTC, and AFAIK there's no CASE relearn functionality in the
code for a Tech 2 scan tool (or equivalent) to interoperate with. No CKP DTCs? No CASE relearn worries.

Can confirm, the relearn is not necessary/possible on either of my '97s using a Tech 2 clone. I looked into this after swapping PCMs in my red truck.
 

big bird

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If I do this right, I will have a new 'proven-good' one in place, plus a 'tested good' used spare CKP sensor
under the seat, along with a 'tested good' ICM, rotor, cap, etc.)

What would you consider essential spares for these trucks?

1/64 or so of my load is tooling that stays with the truck. Wrenches, ratchets, jb weld, drill, two spare wheels, fuses, fluids etc. I don't know this truck well enough to know what specific parts I should have. Looks like I'll be making two more 1400 mi round trips and a final 700.

What do you recommend for specific parts?
 

Road Trip

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What would you consider essential spares for these trucks?

1/64 or so of my load is tooling that stays with the truck. Wrenches, ratchets, jb weld, drill, two spare wheels, fuses, fluids etc. I don't know this truck well enough to know what specific parts I should have. Looks like I'll be making two more 1400 mi round trips and a final 700.

What do you recommend for specific parts?

Good question. First thing is that some people carry new parts as spares, but since new parts are
sometimes bad out of the box, my preference is to harvest 'known-good, flown-good' parts from
the truck and replace them with new parts. Old parts bagged/tagged/dated removed from service,
in a box under the seat. If I do this far enough ahead of a big road trip I now have (2) proven good
parts in hand for redundancy.

Part ...................... Rationale

Cap ...................... Vortec caps fail from center electrode to adjacent #3 cylinder run
Rotor .................... Occasionally blow through to grounded dizzy shaft underneath
Coil ....................... Aging coils are known to short from HV secondary windings back to 12v primary
ICM ....................... Can be taken out by failing coil -or- heat-related failure.
1 SP wire ............... I carry the longest spark plug wire from the last replacement session. Just in case one gets burned/fails in flight, I have a spare to get me home.

Thermostat ............ Peace of mind (+ new gasket)
Cap ....................... Peace of mind

(New) CKP sensor ... Showstopper
Spare Fuses ........... If I carry them, I won't need them.

****

All of the above will fit into a shoebox & stashed behind/under the seat. And obviously my biggest concern
is older/stressed high voltage parts becoming intermittent when subjected to continuous duty in a hot engine
bay during a road trip. (Especially if the truck is normally used for short trips/errands around town.)

No doubt that others can add to this list based upon their own hard-won experience(s).

FWIW --
 

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Erik the Awful

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HotWheelsBurban

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Buy the United Motor Products cap and rotor and you won't have to carry spares.

Here's their coil.

I don't care who made the ICM, I'd still carry a spare. They're showstoppers, just like the crank sensor. If you have to replace a crank sensor, make sure and lube the o-ring so you can get it mounted flush.
Totally agree with Erik on the cap and rotor. I have these on both trucks, and noticed improvement immediately. The Houston area is very humid and we can drive our trucks in pouring rain with no issues from humidity in the ignition!
My Dad used to run Blue Streak caps and rotors on everything. They don't make a set for the Vortecs, but these guys do, and it's worth the slight extra money over stock style.
 
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