Bagged and bodied 99 c3500 build

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Orpedcrow

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Man thinking back, if I remember correctly, the hood hinge is mounted to the fender. You’ll have to use a hood prop if your taking one side off. Maybe a rolled up towel under the corner of the hood and the cowl on that side. Everything you can see of the fender comes off together.
 

Orpedcrow

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Here’s another members truck. The inner fender well and outer fender do come apart too.

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South VA

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I just read back through this thread. What a great looking build! I'm in awe of your metal fabrication chops! Makes me want to learn how to weld...

Here we go.
Any tips or words of wisdom before I start tearing into the front?

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I don't recall that you mentioned much about the truck when you bought it, except that it ran well, so I don't know if it ever sat for any length of time or not. You did discuss installing new power and ground wires, which sounds good. So you're probably already planning on doing this, but I'll mention it just in case: eyeball, and test as necessary, every bit of the stock wiring harness including the wiring itself, insulation, connectors, and ground straps. If it did sit for a time, then look for chewed stuff.

Also, I'm wondering about the battery-to-body ground. Maybe your truck never had one. If so, please disregard the following. If it did, I'd pay particular attention to where the 10 gauge cable from the battery connects to the body. If it's like my '96, then the connection is a coarse threaded bolt (a sheetmetal bolt?) that goes through a single layer of sheetmetal of the inner fender. The hole in mine was wrung out and would easily loosen, and so no longer provided a reliable ground connection. This caused some issues. Since it was a blind panel, meaning I couldn't get to the back side, I used a rivet nut and a machine thread bolt to create an effective anchor point. Just a thought.

If those are the original front brake hoses, might want to think about replacing them soon. They can collapse internally and F stuff up.... BTDT

x2.

If you're going to replace your flexible brake lines anyway - and I would if it were my truck - I'd recommend strongly considering going with braided stainless steel brake lines. I've used them in four of my vehicles, including my '93 Suburban (which we won't discuss, for now), and find that they firm up the brakes a bit, and make braking effort easier to modulate. Plus they look nice, imho.

Keep up the good work! I'm enjoying watching your progress!
 
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ROYALTYFORGE

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I just read back through this thread. What a great looking build! I'm in awe of your metal fabrication chops! Makes me want to learn how to weld...



I don't recall that you mentioned much about the truck when you bought it, except that it ran well, so I don't know if it ever sat for any length of time or not. You did discuss installing new power and ground wires, which sounds good. So you're probably already planning on doing this, but I'll mention it just in case: eyeball, and test as necessary, every bit of the stock wiring harness including the wiring itself, insulation, connectors, and ground straps. If it did sit for a time, then look for chewed stuff.

Also, I'm wondering about the battery-to-body ground. Maybe your truck never had one. If so, please disregard the following. If it did, I'd pay particular attention to where the 10 gauge cable from the battery connects to the body. If it's like my '96, then the connection is a coarse threaded bolt (a sheetmetal bolt?) that goes through a single layer of sheetmetal of the inner fender. The hole in mine was wrung out and would easily loosen, and so no longer provided a reliable ground connection. This caused some issues. Since it was a blind panel, meaning I couldn't get to the back side, I used a rivet nut and a machine thread bolt to create an effective anchor point. Just a thought.



x2.

If you're going to replace your flexible brake lines anyway - and I would if it were my truck - I'd recommend strongly considering going with braided stainless steel brake lines. I've used them in four of my vehicles, including my '93 Suburban (which we won't discuss, for now), and find that they firm up the brakes a bit, and make braking effort easier to modulate. Plus they look nice, imho.

Keep up the good work! I'm enjoying watching your progress!
Thanks alot.
No the truck never really sat for too long, but did see some heavy use for a construction company. I have been checking things as I go along and all of the wiring seems to be in great shape.
Brake lines are on the list, they are I'm good shape right now so it's not at the top of the list.
I know the ground you are referring to and it was secure and will be getting reattached once the inner fenders go back in.
 

ROYALTYFORGE

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Whipped up a remote terminal box. Once I get the new inner fenders in place this will get worked into the area that the battery lived originally.
Should I run a line directly to the posts to the battery for these?
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618 Syndicate

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Whipped up a remote terminal box. Once I get the new inner fenders in place this will get worked into the area that the battery lived originally.
Should I run a line directly to the posts to the battery for these?
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I would run hot to the starter and the other to ground.. You want clean, direct current. If you're using these, something's gone wrong.
 
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