96' Cummins Nv4500 Dana 60 Tahoe Build

[GreaseMonkey44]

The head I used was an early commonrail head, but from my understanding, they're all the same. Intake temp sensor and map sensor had to be fitted to the intake plate, and schied conversion crossover tubes to the injectors. That is it.
7 hole injectors, ugh. My personal 24v hated them. I was a test truck for monster pump Mike years ago. The shop I was working through kept shoving 7 and 8 hole injectors at me. It was nearly undriveable as it smoked so badly. We finally ran 5 or 6 hole injectors, the smoke instantly went away. Mine was a '99 engine. I've tried the 7 hole injectors in various engines, some were not the 5.9 and they only work well in low rpm low power applications. That's been my experience. I personally recommend a 6x13.
I never heard of the hr vp44 not playing nice with power boxes. Knowing the internals of the pump, I highly doubt it's true, but anything is possible.
For turbo identification, there should be a tag on the turbo. It'll literally say he341 or he351.
I'm really appreciating the fact that you're keeping the vp44 and not jumping into the p-pump. After munching so many vp44 pumps (at least 8) I went p-pump. It was a built pump cut back to 500cc.I hated every day of that setup. So many people tout the p-pump/24v and it actually sucks. No variable timing. My '99 is slowly going back together with a ve pump'd 12v. Watching your build because it's rare to repower with a vp44. Super impressed!

It's good to hear someone actually dig the vp44 for once haha this engine really wasn't planned to be built at all to begin with. Just bought the whole engine and frame for 3k for the swap thought it was a runner and then realized there was rust in the bores and it was seized, cam was ruined and I noticed the aftermarket pump and Injector nozzles already installed, so I'm just trying to reuse what i can and add to it to get the most out of it without breaking the bank haha
When I went to my unit and turns out one is an hx35w and the other that was given to me from a third gen doesn't have any tag on it but here's some pics

 

[CumminsFever]

It's good to hear someone actually dig the vp44 for once haha this engine really wasn't planned to be built at all to begin with. Just bought the whole engine and frame for 3k for the swap thought it was a runner and then realized there was rust in the bores and it was seized, cam was ruined and I noticed the aftermarket pump and Injector nozzles already installed, so I'm just trying to reuse what i can and add to it to get the most out of it without breaking the bank haha
When I went to my unit and turns out one is an hx35w and the other that was given to me from a third gen doesn't have any tag on it but here's some pics

So you have an hx35. That is my "go to" for a reliable turbo that can be modified easily. Stuff some good components in it and it'll serve you well for many years. The 3rd gen turbo appears to be an he341, it's missing the sensor on the compressor housing. The 341 is not worth your time, it works great on a 4bt.
Sorry to hear the engine wasn't good, but I know the feeling. Just build it back better!
Yes, I'm liking that you're keeping the vp44, even though it is a "less than" pump. I personally use blue chip pumps, and their pumps have been more reliable than the factory bosch pump. Last time I knew, the oldest blue chip vp44 that I put on had over 200k miles. Still going strong. The stock pump can lay down 550hp on the wheels, and do so up to 3800rpm. While the vp44 isn't what you want when you're trying to get 1000hp, it's gonna make you grin at it's 500hp! I think your hrvp44 can squirt 700hp.
Go compound turbo, and let it eat. Pray to the frame gods that yours doesn't decide to join the pretzel club. My 4bt at 500 on the wheels in a k1500 just couldn't resist the twist. Windshields were disposable, they'd crack from frame flex.

 

[GreaseMonkey44]

side note lmk if anybody wants the set up for NV4500 to chevy 5.7 350. Bellhousing, slave cylinder, input shaft, centerforce stage 2 clutch, all the bits. Won't be needing them after this!

 

[GreaseMonkey44]

So you have an hx35. That is my "go to" for a reliable turbo that can be modified easily. Stuff some good components in it and it'll serve you well for many years. The 3rd gen turbo appears to be an he341, it's missing the sensor on the compressor housing. The 341 is not worth your time, it works great on a 4bt.
Sorry to hear the engine wasn't good, but I know the feeling. Just build it back better!
Yes, I'm liking that you're keeping the vp44, even though it is a "less than" pump. I personally use blue chip pumps, and their pumps have been more reliable than the factory bosch pump. Last time I knew, the oldest blue chip vp44 that I put on had over 200k miles. Still going strong. The stock pump can lay down 550hp on the wheels, and do so up to 3800rpm. While the vp44 isn't what you want when you're trying to get 1000hp, it's gonna make you grin at it's 500hp! I think your hrvp44 can squirt 700hp.
Go compound turbo, and let it eat. Pray to the frame gods that yours doesn't decide to join the pretzel club. My 4bt at 500 on the wheels in a k1500 just couldn't resist the twist. Windshields were disposable, they'd crack from frame flex.

Thats awesome man ive worked on a lot of stuff throughout the years but never have i got to be up close and personal with a 4bt let alone drive one lol Let's hope the truck lives with the 6bt! Lol we'll see if I end up adding any support when I get in there to do the SAS swap. But one first things first lol get the cummins in the engine bay lol
Did some more pricing and it seams I can get a o ringed 98-02 non cr head for $2300 or I can get a standard deck surfaced early cr head for like $2330.. the prices being so close makes this a hard choice for me.. leaning towards the cr head with the standard deck, I'm still running arp 425s, so thinking more flow, more power with less boost like your where talking about earlier. Should be reliable and not need anything extra

 

[Cadillacmak]

Nice build! The amount of learning from builds like this is tremendous, which I am sure you know. It doesn't matter if the build is 100% correct the first time, because we will get it close enough at some point and learn 100 times more than just repairing it. I am a huge fan of mods! Keep up the good work and always remember that the critic isn't bleeding with you.

 

[CumminsFever]

Thats awesome man ive worked on a lot of stuff throughout the years but never have i got to be up close and personal with a 4bt let alone drive one lol Let's hope the truck lives with the 6bt! Lol we'll see if I end up adding any support when I get in there to do the SAS swap. But one first things first lol get the cummins in the engine bay lol
Did some more pricing and it seams I can get a o ringed 98-02 non cr head for $2300 or I can get a standard deck surfaced early cr head for like $2330.. the prices being so close makes this a hard choice for me.. leaning towards the cr head with the standard deck, I'm still running arp 425s, so thinking more flow, more power with less boost like your where talking about earlier. Should be reliable and not need anything extra

Just be aware, you'll need crossover tubes, that should be figured into cost. https://haisleymachine.com/shop/die...es-vp44-or-p7100-w-common-rail-cylinder-head/

 

[GreaseMonkey44]

Nice build! The amount of learning from builds like this is tremendous, which I am sure you know. It doesn't matter if the build is 100% correct the first time, because we will get it close enough at some point and learn 100 times more than just repairing it. I am a huge fan of mods! Keep up the good work and always remember that the critic isn't bleeding with you.

I totally agree with you and always love hearing that people like my work, and love the support to keep going. This is definitely a hobby for the patient and determined so every bit helps!