Measured where? Was the pump running? How much voltage on the ground side?
That's good news. The prime cycle runs about two seconds.
Probably time to pull the tank so you can look inside. Maybe there's an internal leak.
95 c1500 4.3 TBI has fuel and spark, cranks, no start
- Thread starter unpredictable1
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unpredictable1
Newbie
I tried at the wires just before they go up top to the pump, unfortunately forgot about the ground side. My head was elsewhere being pressed for time to finish packing everything up and now I'm back home to handle a few things here (4hrs away from the truck) I will definitely be going back up soon.
Couldn't the pump still be shot even though it makes the prime noise? Also, there is 0 fuel smell around this truck - what do you mean about an internal leak with the tank? Possibly fuel leaking back out of the pump before it leaves the tank? Those tank strap bolts sure look like rusty fun, I doused them with krol a few times.
Also just to make sure the tank had fuel despite making a mess when changing the fuel filter and messing around the fuel pressure test fittings, I still gave the truck a good shake and you can hear fuel sloshing around lol
A '95 should have a short rubber hose connecting the fuel pump to the hanger assembly. If that hose split open, the pump could be fine, but no pressure developed because the fuel is just spraying out the ruptured hose inside the tank--no external leakage.
DON'T use cheap-crap worm-gear hose clamps. Get clamps that the hose won't cold-flow through the slots. The hose itself is "special", rated for use when SUBMERGED in gasoline--SAE 30R10. Normal fuel hose--even high-pressure "fuel injection" hose--may not be suitable when used in a submerged application.
www.gates.com
Point being, you hear the pump run but there's no pressure. You've replaced the fuel filter. That tank is coming down--or the bed coming off--for inspection of the pump/hanger assembly.
It's a total toss-up as to which is easier--removing the bed, or dropping the tank. Removing the bed bolts on the left side, loosening the bed bolts on the right, disconnecting some taillight wires and filler tube, and lifting/tilting the bed for clearance on the left side may be the easiest solution.
If you remove the bed, be sure to bolt the chain around the lifting hook so the chain can't slide through the hood dropping one side of the bed on the ground. Support the sides of the bed with a custom-fit 2X4 or similar.
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DON'T use cheap-crap worm-gear hose clamps. Get clamps that the hose won't cold-flow through the slots. The hose itself is "special", rated for use when SUBMERGED in gasoline--SAE 30R10. Normal fuel hose--even high-pressure "fuel injection" hose--may not be suitable when used in a submerged application.
Submersible Fuel Line Hose | Gates Corporation
Before you start your engines, equip them with Gates fuel hoses. We’ve engineered our fuel line hoses at the cutting-edge of fuel-efficient, environmentally-safe design, so your engine will perform with superior power.
www.gates.com
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Point being, you hear the pump run but there's no pressure. You've replaced the fuel filter. That tank is coming down--or the bed coming off--for inspection of the pump/hanger assembly.
It's a total toss-up as to which is easier--removing the bed, or dropping the tank. Removing the bed bolts on the left side, loosening the bed bolts on the right, disconnecting some taillight wires and filler tube, and lifting/tilting the bed for clearance on the left side may be the easiest solution.
You must be registered for see images attach
If you remove the bed, be sure to bolt the chain around the lifting hook so the chain can't slide through the hood dropping one side of the bed on the ground. Support the sides of the bed with a custom-fit 2X4 or similar.
You must be registered for see images attach
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unpredictable1
Newbie
I've actually gone back n forth on lifting box vs dropping tank and reading past threads (that you were part of in some lol), the bed bolts are probably not the nicest either. Might try a couple just to see if they want to play nice. I would be amazed if I didn't mangle the tank brackets/straps by trying to drop it, those bolts look nasty.
unpredictable1
Newbie
Pretty sure I'll focus on just dropping the tank, it looks like you can drop it and leave the forward bracket in place. If I can possibly do that and there's enough slack in the lines to pivot the tank out - that's the route I'll take and pray the strap bolts survive or maybe I only have to cut those out lol
Swing by a local dealership, find out what new bolts cost?
unpredictable1
Newbie
Not too worried about that part - but is that possible to drop the tank without removing the forward bracket?
Can you slide the tank back towards the rear once you let go the strap or do you need to remove the driveshaft or something to slide it off sideways?
edit: eh, I just need to get back up there. It's coming out, that I promise LOL
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unpredictable1
Newbie
Drove back up here today, good news and bad news. Good news, dropped the tank, put in the new pump, old one was discolored on its filter etc but no obvious issues that I could see.
Found a spot in the harness close to where it goes up to the pump from the frame rail and the wire insulator sleeve looked funny. I pulled the wires out and sure enough at some point it was squat and the ground wire for the pump was flattened pretty bad so I figured it was not the best inside. I put in a new small section of ground wire. The pump now definitely primes, and she is getting fuel - she's spraying into the TB.
Still no start. While I think I definitely had a fuel issue - there's something else also keeping her down.
Argh.
Found a spot in the harness close to where it goes up to the pump from the frame rail and the wire insulator sleeve looked funny. I pulled the wires out and sure enough at some point it was squat and the ground wire for the pump was flattened pretty bad so I figured it was not the best inside. I put in a new small section of ground wire. The pump now definitely primes, and she is getting fuel - she's spraying into the TB.
Still no start. While I think I definitely had a fuel issue - there's something else also keeping her down.
Argh.
unpredictable1
Newbie
Just retracing my steps here and going back to videos I have of when I actually had it briefly running last week a few times...I think I hear a loud vacuum leak while it's idling. Granted I had the entire breather assembly off, but it was loud. Doesn't seem as loud when I had the breather back on, but seemingly still present.
IAC wide-open trying to keep the engine running?
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