3/4 Ton of fun - ‘95 Sierra

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Road Trip

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2023
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
4,834
Location
Syracuse, NY
I’ve got a noisy lifter I think. Cold starts there’s a slight tick for about 10 seconds then goes away. Before the next oil change I’m going to try ATF or some seafoam.

I think I've tried a little of everything over the years, but for me I've gotten the most noticeable improvement
from adding a quart of ATF shortly before performing an oil change.

The last engine I added ATF to was my previously-enjoyed DD. Overall I think the original owner's preventive maintenance
was better than average, but if I had to guess as the years piled on the service intervals started to stretch out a bit?
The symptoms I was trying to cure was overall sluggish behavior with (of course) no check engine light. Plug
colors were good, no issues with coolant consumption, and oil consumption was within normal limits.

The 19 year old motor simply wasn't performing to expectations. Steady state was OK, but transient behavior
was not what I would expect from a K24a engine. (2.4L {146ci}, 160hp & 162 ft/lbs of torque, into a 5-speed manual AWD.)

I tried all the normal deep tuneup tricks, including setting the lash on the solid roller follower DOHC valvetrain. NOTE:
With the valve cover off, there wasn't any build up of sludge, but there was a lot of varnish to see. (!)

Since the iVTEC has a hydraulic cam phaser on the intake camshaft, my theory was that this phasing was sluggish
as compared to what the designers intended? And I had also noted that the VTEC function was noticeable when it
occurred, which is actually another sign of sluggish operation? So, after the normal tune up / valve lash / Techron
steps, I decided to add a quart of ATF, followed by a weekend road trip to visit my sis. This was a ~500 mile round
trip, and I immediately changed the oil & filter upon my return.

By changing only 1 variable at a time (on purpose) I was able to correlate which change made what difference.
Thanks to the complicated hydraulic nature of the intake cam phasing and also VTEC operation (<4 min. technical training video)
the ATF made a noticeable (complete) improvement to the overall driveability of the vehicle.

I know this is a big claim, especially in a public forum, but I did all this a year ago, and the fix has remained in place.
Not only is the engine as responsive to transient inputs as one would expect, but the VTEC transition is faster/smoother,
and the oil consumption has actually improved.

Again, if I attributed all this on my L29 motor that would be sheer nonsense. (No cam phasing or other engine oil-based
performance enhancement modes.) On the other hand, IF you think you have any varnish build up inside your engine
and you think that it might be affecting the tiny spring-loaded check ball/check valve inside your hydraulic lifters, then ATF
seems to be able to clear up the varnish. And this was taught to me by my mechanical mentors half a century ago...
specifically to quiet sticky hydraulic lifters. (!)

Food for close-tolerance thought. Disclaimer: ATF will clear up varnish where none can be tolerated. Essentially a worn-in engine
with good clearances with a varnish condition affecting close-tolerance parts. By the same token, ATF is not recommended on a
worn out engine with excessive clearances where the varnish build up is actually helping to maintain the fragile status quo. (!)

There -is- a difference, and if anyone reading this can't explain that difference, then please err of the side of caution and *do not*
add ATF to your engine oil.

It really is to be used as a specific fix, not a generic miracle fluid. It's an old dog trick, handed down by the elders. YMMV.

FWIW --
 

Attachments

  • Dirt makes for Noisy Hydraulic Lifters exploded diagram (opt).jpg
    Dirt makes for Noisy Hydraulic Lifters exploded diagram (opt).jpg
    266.8 KB · Views: 17
Last edited:

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,341
Reaction score
9,555
Location
Northern IL
I think I've tried a little of everything over the years, but for me I've gotten the most noticeable improvement
from adding a quart of ATF shortly before performing an oil change.

The last engine I added ATF to was my previously-enjoyed DD. Overall I think the original owner's preventive maintenance
was better than average, but if I had to guess as the years piled on the service intervals started to stretch out a bit?
The symptoms I was trying to cure was overall sluggish behavior with (of course) no check engine light. Plug
colors were good, no issues with coolant consumption, and oil consumption was within normal limits.

The 19 year old motor simply wasn't performing to expectations. Steady state was OK, but transient behavior
was not what I would expect from a K24a engine. (2.4L {146ci}, 160hp & 162 ft/lbs of torque, into a 5-speed manual AWD.)

I tried all the normal deep tuneup tricks, including setting the lash on the solid roller follower DOHC valvetrain. NOTE:
With the valve cover off, there wasn't any build up of sludge, but there was a lot of varnish to see. (!)

Since the iVTEC has a hydraulic cam phaser on the intake camshaft, my theory was that this phasing was sluggish
as compared to what the designers intended? And I had also noted that the VTEC function was noticeable when it
occurred, which is actually another sign of sluggish operation? So, after the normal tune up / valve lash / Techron
steps, I decided to add a quart of ATF, followed by a weekend road trip to visit my sis. This was a ~500 mile round
trip, and I immediately changed the oil & filter upon my return.

By changing only 1 variable at a time (on purpose) I was able to correlate which change made what difference.
Thanks to the complicated hydraulic nature of the intake cam phasing and also VTEC operation (<4 min. technical training video)
the ATF made a noticeable (complete) improvement to the overall driveability of the vehicle.

I know this is a big claim, especially in a public forum, but I did all this a year ago, and the fix has remained in place.
Not only is the engine as responsive to transient inputs as one would expect, but the VTEC transition is faster/smoother,
and the oil consumption has actually improved.

Again, if I attributed all this on my L29 motor that would be sheer nonsense. (No cam phasing or other engine oil-based
performance enhancement modes.) On the other hand, IF you think you have any varnish build up inside your engine
and you think that it might be affecting the tiny spring-loaded check ball/check valve inside your hydraulic lifters, then ATF
seems to be able to clear up the varnish. And this was taught to me by my mechanical mentors half a century ago...
specifically to quiet sticky hydraulic lifters. (!)

Food for close-tolerance thought. Disclaimer: ATF will clear up varnish where none can be tolerated. Essentially a worn-in engine
with good clearances with a varnish condition affecting close-tolerance parts. By the same token, ATF is not recommended on a
worn out engine with excessive clearances where the varnish build up is actually helping to maintain the fragile status quo. (!)

There -is- a difference, and if anyone reading this can't explain that difference, then please err of the side of caution and *do not*
add ATF to your engine oil.

It really is to be used as a specific fix, not a generic miracle fluid. It's an old dog trick, handed down by the elders. YMMV.

FWIW --
Wow! I really appreciate the information here. Some things to unpack before I try it.

I did not check tolerances when I had the engine out. At the time I didn’t think it was necessary. I was also on a bit of a time crunch. I knew it used oil prior to that, caused by broken or worn valve seals and failed intake gaskets.

The truck runs good, meets my expectations for fuel economy according to my math (some variance here due to speedo calibration which I need to correct again), and has enough get-up-and-go for this heavy thing.

There was hardly any sludge build up in the engine, some varnishing but nothing like my ‘94.

I would say that this motor is worn-in and not worn out. I may attempt this.

@Road Trip - I appreciate you for sharing this. I’d like to share that my dad did a similar process on the ‘92s original 4.3. It had lifter noise. He added sea foam to the oil and it cleared up the issue and remained silent until we pulled the engine in 2018.

I’ll also note that I didn’t hear the noise today or yesterday when starting the truck after sitting overnight.
 

Caman96

OEM Baby!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2020
Messages
8,645
Reaction score
17,214
Location
The Hub
Is it a bad or dumb idea to put a washer between my bushing and frame mount on my drivers rear cab mount? The body lines aren’t close enough and have been bothering me again. Passenger side is fine to my eyes.
You must be registered for see images attach
I don’t see why not. They are sold for the core support, I can’t see why they couldn’t be used on cab. I actually have a couple I didn’t need but purchased.
You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,341
Reaction score
9,555
Location
Northern IL
The drivers side rear-most mount has this metal plate between the bushing and the cab floor. Passenger side does not have one. I remember seeing it when I did my mounts. It was secured to the floor somehow because it would not come out.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9501.jpeg
    IMG_9501.jpeg
    175.7 KB · Views: 11

fancyTBI

*Sad TBI 350 noises*
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2018
Messages
3,341
Reaction score
9,555
Location
Northern IL
That was probably factory shimming. Is it the driver side that needs more shim or passenger side?
I think the driver side needs it more than the passenger, but both are actually off about the same. I blame the LMC mounts. I may try switching to the GMT900 mounts if I can get them from the dealer still
 
Top