The threads I saw on other forums from guys who track them say they need the controller. Without it the response is sluggish. But I'm willing to hear what you say about it.
1967 Dodge D100
- Thread starter 0xDEADBEEF
- Start date
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There's code out there to control it via Arduino, FYI. I know you're into that.
The new tech is direct assist without any hydraulics, but that would mean a lot of changes to the steering driveline that I don't want to redo, and I want to reduce the torque going through it, not increase it.
I just saw a post from another Lemons racer who said to skip the GPS controller and get the knob controller. Interesting stuff.
Thanks for that. I mostly just want it for low-speed maneuverability, parking lots and such.
I've thought about what it would take to send the speed over CAN in something close to realtime and I might get in depth there. GPS doesn't seem like it wouldn't be fine enough resolution, but I have no idea how rapid the pump response is either. You're also stuck with whatever Volvo thought was appropriate unless you lie to it.
I try to get as far as possible from computers and coding in my free time, so I probably won't. Cheap knob would be just as good for the intended use.
Pump is here, it's pretty beefy. I've been thinking about where to mount it, and I think I am going to put it in the driver's wheel well. The wheel wells are ridiculously big and mostly empty, so there is plenty of room and it gives me a straight shot to the rack. The only thing that might suck is putting fluid in it, but that shouldn't be a common occurrence.
I've thought about what it would take to send the speed over CAN in something close to realtime and I might get in depth there. GPS doesn't seem like it wouldn't be fine enough resolution, but I have no idea how rapid the pump response is either. You're also stuck with whatever Volvo thought was appropriate unless you lie to it.
I try to get as far as possible from computers and coding in my free time, so I probably won't. Cheap knob would be just as good for the intended use.
Pump is here, it's pretty beefy. I've been thinking about where to mount it, and I think I am going to put it in the driver's wheel well. The wheel wells are ridiculously big and mostly empty, so there is plenty of room and it gives me a straight shot to the rack. The only thing that might suck is putting fluid in it, but that shouldn't be a common occurrence.
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LOL
A Sherriff deputy came by and knocked on my door about my old derelict trailer on the back 0.40 (apparently it gets ton of calls). Then he asks to look at Dodgey and I told him about the steering project and he asks if it's the Volvo. Car guys are everywhere.
A Sherriff deputy came by and knocked on my door about my old derelict trailer on the back 0.40 (apparently it gets ton of calls). Then he asks to look at Dodgey and I told him about the steering project and he asks if it's the Volvo. Car guys are everywhere.
Monthly startup fail. GoshDanged battery is dead. It should have lasted a month without charge and it was well over 12 volts last I checked. I suspect that battery disconnect is not disconnecting totally, or it won't reconnect at all. One of those.
Still too hot for my liking to work in the driveway, so all progress is stalled. Hoping mid-September I can get some stuff done.
Steering and full wiring on Dodgey, oil pan gasket on the Tahoe, and Term-X install on the MadCustoms truck.
Still too hot for my liking to work in the driveway, so all progress is stalled. Hoping mid-September I can get some stuff done.
Steering and full wiring on Dodgey, oil pan gasket on the Tahoe, and Term-X install on the MadCustoms truck.
Battery was at 3 volts. LOL.
I flap-disked a new clean spot on the frame and grounded the battery to it, hooked up the jump pack and it started on the first try. I let it run until the cooling fan kicked on and after turning it off the battery was at 11 volts and holding there. Removed it from the truck and put it on the charger. Hopefully I don't have to buy a new battery, but discharging to 3 volts probably killed it.
Whilst I was sitting there in the truck I moved it around the cul-de-sac and the steering is much better than I remember. Weird. I think Dodgey is trying to show me a glimpse of the future if I can get off my ass and get some work done.
I flap-disked a new clean spot on the frame and grounded the battery to it, hooked up the jump pack and it started on the first try. I let it run until the cooling fan kicked on and after turning it off the battery was at 11 volts and holding there. Removed it from the truck and put it on the charger. Hopefully I don't have to buy a new battery, but discharging to 3 volts probably killed it.
Whilst I was sitting there in the truck I moved it around the cul-de-sac and the steering is much better than I remember. Weird. I think Dodgey is trying to show me a glimpse of the future if I can get off my ass and get some work done.
Welp, I figured out what is wrong with my steering. The upper u-joint is binding in certain spots, about every 45 degrees of rotation I think. There's just too much angle. Borgeson makes a double cardan style u-joint thingy that should fix that.
Started making a bracket to mount the pump to the bumper brace. Didn't get very far, but the location looks about perfect. I might need to make a shield to keep stuff from slinging off the tire onto the pump. I could fit it under the hood except turbo.
Started making a bracket to mount the pump to the bumper brace. Didn't get very far, but the location looks about perfect. I might need to make a shield to keep stuff from slinging off the tire onto the pump. I could fit it under the hood except turbo.
I noticed this cap has busted out. Maybe that's why it felt like it was fixed the last time I drove it, because it wasn't binding as much.
I deleted the heim joint that was holding the DD shaft because the angle was better without it. I feel like this is going to work, time to go drill and burn it.
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I deleted the heim joint that was holding the DD shaft because the angle was better without it. I feel like this is going to work, time to go drill and burn it.
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Pro tip: the heim is required, otherwise the shaft doesn't rotate around its center and it's just weird.
I have it pinned in temporarily and I can actually turn it lock to lock now. I think I'm going to leave it pinned until I get a chance to drive it and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Uncentered steering wheels drive me crazy! Oh, and when I say pinned, I mean I drilled a 1/8" hole through the top joint and steering shaft and stuck an old Allen wrench through it. LOL.
I have it pinned in temporarily and I can actually turn it lock to lock now. I think I'm going to leave it pinned until I get a chance to drive it and make sure the steering wheel is centered. Uncentered steering wheels drive me crazy! Oh, and when I say pinned, I mean I drilled a 1/8" hole through the top joint and steering shaft and stuck an old Allen wrench through it. LOL.
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