14 bolt 454 1991 differential ID question again

[Schurkey]

You might get by on the right side. Was it seeping before?

The left side is "done". New axle shaft, or axle-saver bearing required.

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

You might get by on the right side. Was it seeping before?

The left side is "done". New axle shaft, or axle-saver bearing required.

Left side showed very minor leakage… just a little caked-on goo around the seal exterior, no bulk leakage at all.

Right side was clean.

The bearings look pristine on both sides.

Does a new axle necessitate a new bearing?

Axle supplier… ?

I may call DTS in Michigan.

 

[df2x4]

Axle supplier… ?

You might try Dutchman if you're looking for new.

https://dutchmanaxles.com/

 

[Diver]

I have the 14 bolt done and installed . So far so good. Got new spring perch ,u bolts and bottom brackets. new bearings and seals...... I measured pinion angle before a removed real end . The truck was on a lift and settled weight on axle stands . I remove old , raised truck off stands and put the 14 bolt on stands. i set the spring perch on and lowered truck on them. I then adjusted pinion on rear and shaft to adjust pinion and other measurements i took. I then tacked welded the spring perch and lifted truck so i could weld it solid. The 14 bolt housing with yoke was closer to the trans tail shaft.
I still had plenty of distance to avoid drive shaft coming forward and binding trans tail shaft. All and all it was quite a experience . Ive set up many differentials in drag cars years ago but this was my first with a truck.. I hope to use truck to pull a 7k toy trailer .

Next project is my hydro-boost brake install. I thank you all for the advice and help for me to get this rear end project done

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

You might try Dutchman if you're looking for new.

https://dutchmanaxles.com/

Dutchman wanted $465 for a pair of 6-lug axles and another $107 for shipping.

The base price was $335/pr but the pilot on these "base price" axles was not as tall my OE axles (mine 0.70", stepped at 3.09" inside at the brake drum and 3.06" outside at the wheel).

The added cost to install a 0.70" pilot was $65/axle ($130/pr), so the total $465, then add shipping of $107.

There should be sales tax added too.

I then called DTS (Drive Train Specialists in Warren, MI) and they said they would suggest I buy the Motive Gear p/n MC27106 (p/n includes axle, bearing and seal) if they had some to sell, but they didn't... so I looked around and found them at Summit for $251/ea ($502/pr, free shipping), but...

The bare axle (w/ no bearing or seal) from Motive Gear is sold as p/n 15521928, which Summit had for $100.00/ea in stock w/ free shipping.

I called and talked to Motive Gear and asked if there was any difference b/t the axle sold as MC27106 and that as 15521928, and the net-net was "no", there's just a 10yr warranty on MC27106 (and bearings and seals).

So I bought a pair of Motive Gear p/n 15521928 axles for $200+tax. My old bearings look great so "reuse", and I bought two new "GM Genuine Parts 291-316" seals for ~$25/pr via Amazon.

I've got a bunch of used M14-1.5 studs I can press into the holes.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1998_K1500_Sub]

The Motive Gear p/n 15521928 axles arrived Friday, I finally got around to unboxing them today.

I also pressed the studs out of the old axles and prepared to install them in the new, but I'm having second thoughts... debating whether it's a good / bad idea to reuse a stud.

The used studs' serrated area is likely deformed slightly from the prior install, and since it's an interference fit...

Seems like the most (overly?) prudent option is to replace them.

 

[AuroraGirl]

The Motive Gear p/n 15521928 axles arrived Friday, I finally got around to unboxing them today.

I also pressed the studs out of the old axles and prepared to install them in the new, but I'm having second thoughts... debating whether it's a good / bad idea to reuse a stud.

The used studs' serrated area is likely deformed slightly from the prior install, and since it's an interference fit...

Seems like the most (overly?) prudent option is to replace them.

The Motive Gear p/n 15521928 axles arrived Friday, I finally got around to unboxing them today.

I also pressed the studs out of the old axles and prepared to install them in the new, but I'm having second thoughts... debating whether it's a good / bad idea to reuse a stud.

The used studs' serrated area is likely deformed slightly from the prior install, and since it's an interference fit...

Seems like the most (overly?) prudent option is to replace them.

Simply because those axles are virgins, not something most people encounter when pressing studs, i think you are valid

You must be registered for see images attach

Heres your studs if you want GM oem black coated ones

 

[Schurkey]

Most folks would want "new" studs. I did.

That said...the new axle flanges are probably harder than the OEM axle flanges. Any remaining knurl on the old studs is "probably" good enough. But hit those studs with some primer/cleaner, a couple drops of red Loctite 271 on each, and they're in there as solidly as they need to be.

The big issue to me is not the press-fit into the axle flange, but the fatigue on the studs from perhaps being over-tightened in the past, or corrosion damage from years of prior use.

 

[someotherguy]

Most folks would want "new" studs. I did.

That said...the new axle flanges are probably harder than the OEM axle flanges. Any remaining knurl on the old studs is "probably" good enough. But hit those studs with some primer/cleaner, a couple drops of red Loctite 271 on each, and they're in there as solidly as they need to be.

The big issue to me is not the press-fit into the axle flange, but the fatigue on the studs from perhaps being over-tightened in the past, or corrosion damage from years of prior use.

I vote for new, too. You'll be really, really unhappy if you decide to skimp here and then later go to remove a lug nut only to find the stud spinning in the flange.

Richard