4L60E Information Thread

Aaron Poston said:

Thanks for replying! The truck has 240k, I know it's been rebuilt twice already and the last rebuild was about 40k miles ago. The workmanship of the last shop was not the best I can tell you that but I haven't had any problems until now. I can shift it into manual low and it shifts fine from a start and into second and third but stays in third and never goes into fourth. When I have it in drive, it will start off slow like it's slipping

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Ok...If it feels fine in man low and 2 that further reinforces my suspicions your forward and 3-4 clutch packs are likely worn to the point they can no longer hold against a normal apply circuit charge, hence the slippage...No 3-4 upshift can be a myriad of things but the most likely culprit is a 3-4 pack that is slipping under load to the extent 4th apply oil isn't making it to the servo...You may also have a worn 4th apply piston sealing ring in the servo cover or worn/torn 4th accumulator piston seal.

Was the converter replaced at the last overhaul?

What did you observe about the workmanship that leads you to believe corners may have been cut or it was not up to par?

I believe the torque converter was replaced. My dad is the one that got it rebuilt and he gave it to me as a gift. The shop that did it chopped the exhaust instead of unbolting it and welded it back together but it's the worst welding job I've ever seen, the wiring harness was put back incorrectly so the metal shield was rattling against the exhaust, they cross threaded the support bar bolts so they come loose. Is this a situation that would you recommend a whole rebuild or being that it's been rebuilt twice, I should get a reman unit? I know that's kinda jumping ahead but I just want a reliable truck

Aaron Poston said:

I believe the torque converter was replaced. My dad is the one that got it rebuilt and he gave it to me as a gift. The shop that did it chopped the exhaust instead of unbolting it and welded it back together but it's the worst welding job I've ever seen, the wiring harness was put back incorrectly so the metal shield was rattling against the exhaust, they cross threaded the support bar bolts so they come loose. Is this a situation that would you recommend a whole rebuild or being that it's been rebuilt twice, I should get a reman unit? I know that's kinda jumping ahead but I just want a reliable truck

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Gotcha - sounds like a bunch of hacks...

The first order of business is to find a competent transmission shop that will go through it properly, test, inspect and check for all the requisite things and rebuild it right. There's no advantage of going with a remanufactured unit, at least not for these transmissions and not in my opinion...I've rebuilt my share of 'remans' over the years and most leave a lot to be desired compared to what folks are paying for them (Monster, etc).

Unfortunately, I don't know of anyone in particular located in MD but I'm sure there's someone within a reasonable distance from you who will do things correctly...Just have to find them.

Gotcha, thank you for the input. I'll do some research and see if I can find a reputable shop around me.

Just got off the phone with my dad, I guess they didn't replace the torque converter. I wonder what else they didn't do.

Aaron Poston said:

I wonder what else they didn't do.

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They likely didnt do one or more of the following:

- Address the hydraulics (vb and pump)
- Machine/surface the pump
- Turn or replace the rev input drum
- Check the fwd drum for leakage
- Replace all (or any) bushings
- Replace one way clutch assemblies
- Replace harness/electrical/electonics
- Replace sun shell w/heat treated version

Sounds like the work of a flat rate shop...

Is there a good aftermarket pan for the 4L60e that has a drain plug, specifically a drop in replacement for a 1999 Suburban pan (GM 24229658)?
I've looked at the Dorman and SKP options, but their plug bolts are just hanging down waiting for something to shear it off.

PM18S4 said:

Is there a good aftermarket pan for the 4L60e that has a drain plug, specifically a drop in replacement for a 1999 Suburban pan (GM 24229658)?
I've looked at the Dorman and SKP options, but their plug bolts are just hanging down waiting for something to shear it off.

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Dorman sucks, for just about everything. Check ebay - search "4L60E pan". There's some good options from reworked factory pans with drain plugs to nice aluminum pans like the B&M and everything in between.

I use a pan very similar to this on my 4L60E and it's been good to go for the past 10 years.

NickTransmissions said:

Dorman sucks, for just about everything. Check ebay - search "4L60E pan". There's some good options from reworked factory pans with drain plugs to nice aluminum pans like the B&M and everything in between.

I use a pan very similar to this on my 4L60E and it's been good to go for the past 10 years.

GM Turbo 700R4 Transmission Pan 700-R4 & 4L60E Aluminum Extra Capacity DEEP Pan | eBay

GM 700R4 & 4L60E Aluminum Transmission Pan - EXTRA CAPACITY. Applications: Fits GM Turbo 700R4 & 4L60 Transmissions. Material: Polished Aluminum.

www.ebay.com

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I got that one as well as an OEM pan that was tapped with a drain bolt to compare.



Both appear to have the same depth and bolt pattern and interface, but the aftermarket one has some serious flaws.
1. Die cast aluminum body + plug bolt without a magnet embedded into it = no way to catch fines.
2. Plug bolt extends well beyond fins, just waiting to get caught by a stray rock.
3. The casting has some really sharp flashing around the ejector pin punches and the "Made it Taiwan" Stamp.
4. I have some serious questions regarding the ability of it sealing properly.

I will follow up with another post on the modified OEM pan with a drain installed.

PM18S4 said:

I got that one as well as an OEM pan that was tapped with a drain bolt to compare.

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Both appear to have the same depth and bolt pattern and interface, but the aftermarket one has some serious flaws.
1. Die cast aluminum body + plug bolt without a magnet embedded into it = no way to catch fines.
2. Plug bolt extends well beyond fins, just waiting to get caught by a stray rock.
3. The casting has some really sharp flashing around the ejector pin punches and the "Made it Taiwan" Stamp.
4. I have some serious questions regarding the ability of it sealing properly.

I will follow up with another post on the modified OEM pan with a drain installed.

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Yea, aftermarket is hit and miss, many different companies and suppliers are providing very similar or identical pans so caveat emptor when it comes to that stuff.