Best approach for fixing inop R12 A/C system

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smdk2500

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I would have no issues with the pump you listed. I use the 7 cfm version of the version of the vacuum pump at work. It doesn't get used every day but some times it gets used several times a day. It gets used to pull systems down that hold 16+ pounds. The gauges I don't know anything about. I'm sure they would work fine.
 

SNCTMPL

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These are the gauges and pump I'm considering, and would need to pull the trigger on pretty quickly so I can have everything here for my next days off.

Orion gauge set www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Automotive-Puncturing/dp/B07CZB2SHZ

Robinair 5cfm pump www.amazon.com/Robinair-15500-VacuMaster-Economy-Vacuum/dp/B000O1C47M

Richard
I just purchased that gauge set and the Orion 4.5 cfm pump. It will be a couple of weeks before I use them, but I’ll report back when I do.
I just picked up a 90 rclb to get my son on the road, that we are converting to 134.
And the 89 that we are building for him, I’m compiling all the information from @L31MaxExpress to put the best system in that I can. I want my son to complain that it’s too cold. :biggrin:
 

someotherguy

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EDIT...for the TL;DR crowd, after it sat for more than an hour it dropped from 30" to 28" so that plus the fact the system was empty to begin with, I don't have much confidence in trying to resurrect it without a total teardown and re-seal, along with replacing everything along the way that makes sense.

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So I ran into a snag, and it's gonna show my ignorance on the subject for sure - my manifold set hoses are the same size fitting on high and low side (for the screw-on style without the quick-connect R134a adapters installed) - which the low side is correct to attach at my accumulator, but the high side behind the compressor is smaller. Low side is 7/16", high side is 3/8" - at least that's roughly the OD size of the threads when I check them with an open end wrench.

A little lost at the array of adapters out there, does someone know which one I need? Is it the 3/16" to 1/4" adapter (assuming ID) - sure seems like it.

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Next up - I realize this isn't a 100% valid test but I hooked up to the low side and pulled vacuum on it. It went to 30" pretty quickly. I shut it off and closed the valve and it's held 30" for 30 minutes already. I feel like that's a pretty good test, barring any blockage in the high side like the orifice or condenser, yeah? (since the high side isn't connected.) If so, that gives me hope to consider getting the clutch removal tool and pulling the broken clutch off this compressor, and installing the one I received courtesy of @grampadirt who went out of his way to send me a spare magnet coil he had. Thank you!

Also wondering if this '93 model R12 compressor (appears original) has metric or SAE threads in the clutch hub center, so I can choose the correct tool.

Richard
 
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someotherguy

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Don't get jealous now but look what I just picked up today!!

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That's too big for my wife's kitchen scale. ;)

I'm ready to ditch this whole system. If I have to take it apart to re-seal eveything, I'm tempted to replace everything, too. Once I start swapping in parts for an R134a system, don't I have a thread mismatch at all the connections vs. the R12 parts? At that point I'd say I'm swapping everything out from compressor, condenser, evaporator, lines, accumulator, and orifice.

Richard
 

grampadirt

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That's too big for my wife's kitchen scale. ;)

I'm ready to ditch this whole system. If I have to take it apart to re-seal eveything, I'm tempted to replace everything, too. Once I start swapping in parts for an R134a system, don't I have a thread mismatch at all the connections vs. the R12 parts? At that point I'd say I'm swapping everything out from compressor, condenser, evaporator, lines, accumulator, and orifice.

Richard
I would say if you're gonna keep that truck for a few years it might not be a bad idea to put all new 134a parts on it,then you know what you have.The problem of course is the cost...
 

Scooterwrench

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These are the gauges and pump I'm considering, and would need to pull the trigger on pretty quickly so I can have everything here for my next days off.

Orion gauge set www.amazon.com/Orion-Motor-Tech-Automotive-Puncturing/dp/B07CZB2SHZ

Robinair 5cfm pump www.amazon.com/Robinair-15500-VacuMaster-Economy-Vacuum/dp/B000O1C47M

Richard
Those basic gauges will serve you well. I just retired my old set like that that I've had since 1988 and the valves are still good but the gauges are pretty beat to ****.
How are your fabricating skills? Any A/C compressor can be turned into to a really good vacuum pump when driven with an electric motor. Having a v-belt pulley would make it easier to drive with an electric motor. I just rebuilt my Motorcraft/York compressor that I've used for years after it was an A/C compressor off a '77 Ford pickup for 20yrs. When I tested it this afternoon it went straight to 29" hg.
Didn't cost $200 and ain't cheap chinese crap.
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Any A/C compressor can be turned into to a really good vacuum pump when driven with an electric motor.
Or a sealed unit from a refrigerator or freezer. Here, I mounted it on a scrap board, wired in a switch, and soldered the fitting on the suction side ;)

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Scooterwrench

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Or a sealed unit from a refrigerator or freezer. Here, I mounted it on a scrap board, wired in a switch, and soldered the fitting on the suction side ;)

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I'd forgot about those. A shop I worked for in the mid '80's had one of those and it did a really good job.
 

someotherguy

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The DIY units are impressive projects but not anything I've got time or supplies for. Also I've already bought the Robinair pump and it's here and in use. :)

The system is definitely leaking down after a few hours and some slight signs of old oil residue around the front of the compressor tells me it just might be there - since that's where they often leak from, anyway.

Now I have to make the decision. Replace the compressor and associated required parts - accumulator, orifice, seals.. and add the conversion fittings. OR..

Replace everything, using 1994-spec R134a parts from go. Compressor, accumulator, orifice, lines, evaporator, condenser.......... the "whole kitchen sink" approach I was trying to avoid.

Because, if I'm replacing the compressor, and I need to take everything apart to put new seals in, we all know how badly those connections can behave and the potential to wreck stuff is very high. Especially on a truck that has sat neglected for so long and everything under the hood has some level of corrosion and crud. Almost every fastener I've gone after on this truck has fought me.

Richard
 
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