If you're bound and determined to overhaul motor in frame --- get some plastic/rubber tubing and slide it onto rod bolts to prevent bolts from scarring journals. With a stick, shove each piston up into its bore until rod bolts clear crank. Shove transmission back, remove TQ converter & flexplate. Then remove rear main seal carrier from block. Remove timing cover & timing set. Remove oil pump & screen. Remove all main caps Except #3. Then carefully, slowly, incrementaly remove #3 while lowering crank; removing it. If you have have good gaging that'll read one ten-thousandth with good repeatability, you measure journals. Otherwise take crank to local auto machine shop and have them measure & polish it out or grind it to whatever next sizes are available.
FWIW, bearings aka inserts are generally available in "ones" (One thousandth undersize), "twos" (same scheme), Ten, Twenty etc. You can mix a half shell std and a half shell one to obtain one-half thousandth. That's quite acceptable practice; it's SOP for pros.
* the "thicker" shell goes into upper end of rod OR into Main's cap
FWIW, bearings aka inserts are generally available in "ones" (One thousandth undersize), "twos" (same scheme), Ten, Twenty etc. You can mix a half shell std and a half shell one to obtain one-half thousandth. That's quite acceptable practice; it's SOP for pros.
* the "thicker" shell goes into upper end of rod OR into Main's cap
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