Friggin' leaks!!!

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Scooterwrench

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I've made a bunch of edits to that previous reply as my brain is waking up so if it looks like I left anything out, just refresh the page, LOL

Richard
Thanks for the explanation and pics. I didn't know there was supposed to be an elbow on the condensate drain,mine has never had one. If it does turn out to be something up inside the air box is it possible to remove the evaporator cover without pulling the entire airbox?
 

someotherguy

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Thanks for the explanation and pics. I didn't know there was supposed to be an elbow on the condensate drain,mine has never had one. If it does turn out to be something up inside the air box is it possible to remove the evaporator cover without pulling the entire airbox?
A lot of trucks are missing the elbow, but not everyone has problems with it leaking back inside the truck. I imagine most of those are probably also ones with loose or deteriorated foam seal around the heater core hoses/drain line nipple.

It's been too many years since I pulled one of these boxes apart, and the ones I did were already completely out of the truck. I'll try to look at some of my old pics tonight and see if it seems reasonable to get that cover off without removing the box.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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All I've got are those 2006-era pics where I took it apart to show all the crud that collects against the evaporator, so it's not really a "teardown" series of pics, unfortunately. It does vaguely look like it might be possible to get that lower cover off the evaporator once the heater core cover and core are out of the way, but I can't see all the screw locations. At least one or two are bound to be on the backside towards the firewall, tricky to reach just like that one on the heater core cover. You can see one of them on the dash side in the pic where I've circled the heater core cover screw locations. Two more along the ridge of the evaporator "hump".. probably a couple on the left side where it separates from the vent door section of the box.

Not sure if this pic helps, sadly I don't have a higher-res version of it, but it gives the view from the firewall side.
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Richard
 

Erik the Awful

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If you have any number of GMT400s in your local Pull-A-Part, it's worth it to nab an entire box. Visit several trucks and assemble a single good box. That's what I did for Roscoe, and I was left with a still very-usable spare box.

I used RTV to seal my box, and it works fine and isn't a total PITA to disassemble so long as you go very thin on the RTV.

Note that there are at least two designs for these boxes. If you accidentally get the wrong version, you can still screw the parts together and get them to work.

I believe you could probably replace the evaporator and/or heater core without removing the box, but I haven't tried.

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Scooterwrench

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All I've got are those 2006-era pics where I took it apart to show all the crud that collects against the evaporator, so it's not really a "teardown" series of pics, unfortunately. It does vaguely look like it might be possible to get that lower cover off the evaporator once the heater core cover and core are out of the way, but I can't see all the screw locations. At least one or two are bound to be on the backside towards the firewall, tricky to reach just like that one on the heater core cover. You can see one of them on the dash side in the pic where I've circled the heater core cover screw locations. Two more along the ridge of the evaporator "hump".. probably a couple on the left side where it separates from the vent door section of the box.

Not sure if this pic helps, sadly I don't have a higher-res version of it, but it gives the view from the firewall side.
You must be registered for see images attach


Richard

If you have any number of GMT400s in your local Pull-A-Part, it's worth it to nab an entire box. Visit several trucks and assemble a single good box. That's what I did for Roscoe, and I was left with a still very-usable spare box.

I used RTV to seal my box, and it works fine and isn't a total PITA to disassemble so long as you go very thin on the RTV.

Note that there are at least two designs for these boxes. If you accidentally get the wrong version, you can still screw the parts together and get them to work.

I believe you could probably replace the evaporator and/or heater core without removing the box, but I haven't tried.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Thanks guys,
Reckon I'll just have to start taking $hit apart and hopefully I can get to what I need short of pulling all the freon out. My evacuation pump is an old aluminum Tecumseh compressor that I replaced a York cast iron compressor with. The York was set up to evacuate into a freon canister but I haven't put an outlet fitting on the Tecumseh yet or changed the oil to PAG,still has mineral oil in it. That's my world,build the tool to do the job.
 

dallasp438

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Good thing my truck is not a boat,it would go straight to the bottom.

Got the A/C fixed and discovered another friggin' leak. The new leak is where the lower heater/A/C module access cover meets the bottom of the air box. My first thought was condensate drain so I shoved a small screwdriver in it and wallowed it around but the drain was clear and I could feel air coming out with the blower on. I remember some of the older cars and trucks had a sealer where the seams meet but the FSM doesn't show any type of seals where those pieces meet on these trucks.

Anybody ever dealt with this problem?
Did you replace the evaporator then started to notice the leak? Is it leaking after you run the A/C or do you notice the leak after a rainstorm?
 
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