Cracked A/C compressor bracket

92 C1500 RCLB 5.7 TBI

Completely redoing my AC system this summer (minus the evaporator). Using the Dirty Dingo conversion bracket to install a Sanden compressor.

While tightening the last bolt to the accessory bracket, I noticed a crack had formed. I don't think the kit came with the right number or size of spacers to have every bolt aligned properly, I wasn't paying attention and just kept tightening.

The only thing this bracket is used for is the AC compressor, idler pulley, and belt tensioner.
Any chance I can JB Weld this? Or should I just get a whole new bracket? If I need a whole new bracket, which model/engines am I able to pick from? I assume (i know, lol) any TBI 5.0 or 5.7. Any others?

Know anyone who can weld cast aluminum? Not just anyone - but someone who knows what they are doing. A reputable shop could take care of that. You can rob brackets off of 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7s.

It's easier and cheaper to just find one at treasure yard , piknpull. I look away for couple of seconds and my helpful neighbor friend thought he was helping. Nope, not really.

fancyTBI said:

You can rob brackets off of 4.3, 5.0, and 5.7s.

Click to expand...

^^^ this, but also to mention they need to be from TBI engines. The Vortec brackets are totally different. There are also a few minor differences in some '90 brackets, may have provision for a smog pump that may or may not be present. And 88-89 are stamped steel one piece for everything, avoid; often cracked by the P/S pump.

Richard

So ended up going to the treasure yard and getting a new to me bracket, no cracks, $10 and 45 minutes later it's like it never happened.

Now, assembling the air-conditioning system: I'm replacing everything this summer except the evaporator. New hoses, switches, compressor, evaporator, dryer, O-rings... everything.

I was unsure if it had been converted to 134 previously, so I'm doing it for sure now. This is the list of parts I have installed already.

Compressor: genuine Sanden #4711
Condenser: GPD 4295C
Receiver/dryer: Four seasons 33150
Orifice tube: Four seasons 38903
Liquid line: GM 1533084

The condenser is a parallel flow listed on rock auto for my 92

The receiver dryer is a 92 replacement

The orifice tube is .072 variable

Now, on my questions about the switches, suction, and discharge lines. I'm planning to get the lines custom-made from Coldhose. The compressor side fittings for both lines are simple enough. Discharge is a #8, suction is a #10. The trouble is i'm unsure what to get for the condenser and accumulator ends, respectively.

The condenser is listed as having a 3/4"-16 fitting size, will a #8 fitting match up with that?

This chart from Coldhose's website suggests not.


Likewise on the accumulator end, the outlet is listed as a 3/4" (so #8?), but the fitting is a 1 1/16"-14. According to the bottom of this chart, that would be a #10 fitting.


So for the suction line, I will need a #10 fitting on the compressor, a #10 hose, and then a #10 fitting on the accumulator end with a hose adapter to a #8? Do I have that correct?

On a typical R12 GM. Suction is a #10. Compressor discharge is a #8. Liquid is a #6.

The accumulator suction connection is a #10 female o'ring. Condenser at discharge hose is a #8 female o'ring.

1-1/16" is the hex fitting size for a backup wrench and not sure why they are listing that rather than the outlet thread size.

L31MaxExpress said:

On a typical R12 GM. Suction is a #10. Compressor discharge is a #8. Liquid is a #6.

The accumulator suction connection is a #10 female o'ring. Condenser at discharge hose is a #8 female o'ring.

1-1/16" is the hex fitting size for a backup wrench and not sure why they are listing that rather than the outlet thread size.

Click to expand...

I've noticed the R12 system are different from R134a; fittings that seem like they'll mate, won't.

Evidently the thread pitch is a factor.

I learned this by trying to mate an R12 suction line to an R134a accumulator, both of which were spec'd for an S10 Blazer, only for different years. No joy.

Das Hatt said:

92 C1500 RCLB 5.7 TBI

Completely redoing my AC system this summer (minus the evaporator). Using the Dirty Dingo conversion bracket to install a Sanden compressor.

While tightening the last bolt to the accessory bracket, I noticed a crack had formed. I don't think the kit came with the right number or size of spacers to have every bolt aligned properly, I wasn't paying attention and just kept tightening.

The only thing this bracket is used for is the AC compressor, idler pulley, and belt tensioner.
Any chance I can JB Weld this? Or should I just get a whole new bracket? If I need a whole new bracket, which model/engines am I able to pick from? I assume (i know, lol) any TBI 5.0 or 5.7. Any others?

Click to expand...

You might want to check but the washer/spacer, under the nut in your pics, looks like it belongs on the other side of the bracket. That bracket is pulled out of straight and then cracked.

1998_K1500_Sub said:

I've noticed the R12 system are different from R134a; fittings that seem like they'll mate, won't.

Evidently the thread pitch is a factor.

I learned this by trying to mate an R12 suction line to an R134a accumulator, both of which were spec'd for an S10 Blazer, only for different years. No joy.

Click to expand...

Factory GM R134a fittings are metric and R12 are SAE.

movietvet said:

You might want to check but the washer/spacer, under the nut in your pics, looks like it belongs on the other side of the bracket. That bracket is pulled out of straight and then cracked.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I think I origianlly misunderstood what engine/vehicle the dirty dingo adapter bracket would work with. My solution was to add washers to act as spacers. This is the result.