PMGR starter differences

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Jerrys1990

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My experience might be in the minority but I have yet to need any shims on a PMGR in several different applications.

Have you got your replacement starter in yet, and it needs shimming, or is this the aftermarket one with the funky casting? (btw I think they all tend to look a bit rough)

Richard
The rough replacement is the one im having trouble with. The new nice one will be going in tonight hopefully.
 

Schurkey

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The power they can produce for 1/10th of a second, right before the blow up
Not even 1/10th of a second. I think they're measuring the inrush current before the motor spools-up. Probably just a couple of cycles, and in the USA 'n' Canada, that's 60 cycles per second.

When our '90 Burb needed starter work, we'd have to smack it (starter) with a hammer to get it to start when the engine was warm(short trips like getting gas, where you're trying to restart after only 10-15 minutes). It was only in these situations, truck was fine otherwise. Dad finally rebuilt the starter (regular GM larger starter, 10MT?). No more issues with starting, after the rebuild.
It's amazing what a set of brushes, a couple of bushings, a shift-fork and a leather washer, and some sandpaper on the armature and copper disc of the solenoid can do.
 

Jerrys1990

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More updates: So, the first reman Vortec starter....the bolt holes were actually too big. Even with the GM bolts, there was play around the knurl. When I slid the GM bolts into the new 4.3 liter starter, they were TIGHT. The knurl cut into the aluminum while installing and made a nice tight fit. No more walking about! Didn't need any shims, as someone else here stated. It sounds nice and smooth when cranking. And yes, the 4.3 liter starter fits. I looked it up for a 2001 S-10 Blazer. Same cranking speed and everything. Now, just need a heat shield! So I've learned: don't buy a reman...buy new. And definitely use the GM bolts, NOT the Dorkmans.
 
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