Donald Mitchell
1990 C1500 5.7L
The ones I got from Napa had new pins and hardware in them. They call that semi loaded. Also one of the bleeder screws was smaller than the other. Just an observation. About 26.00.
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454,
Most pads I have bought in recent times come with the rubber bushings. Here's the one's I have in my RA cart:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5417244&cc=1051120&jsn=1902
At first blush that's what I was wondering, but I can look at the piston and could see if it was cocked, but it looks fine. If we think about it, pretty darn hard to get a piston cocked. I'm thinking it's combination of not using new pins/sleeves and maybe the mag chloride washing away my grease on the inside pad where it has to slide on the caliper.
I used this Permatex grease on the slides, pins, inside pads, and where the calipers slides on the knuckle this past fall when I did the brakes on one of my vans and it seems to be working well. I'm going to use it on the rest of my vehicles and see if it continues to work well.
https://www.permatex.com/products/l...atex-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant-2/
I remember those days.Had a hay day when Chrysler moved to “Phenolic” pistons. They swell and stick and great for business.
Give me a 6-point socket, and the longest 3/8 ratchet I own. A long handle gives good controlability. As evidenced by my first post...I can't save 'em all. But my track record is pretty good.But I would rebuild a caliper every time as long as I can get the bleeder screw loose first. Nothing replaces the hand feel on a 6 point SnapOn bleeder wrench.
I quit honing the piston bore. Given the fairly enormous clearance between piston and caliper bore, I figure the piston never touches the bore in any meaningful way.Torch, yes. With O rings out, I would run a “Flex Stone Hone in the bore while spraying it with solvent.
I guess I need to see the video. I'm not getting it.install rotor, install cone adaptors & torque nuts. In stall magnetic base w/dial indicator. Lateral run out 1/4” from edge and zero. Spin slow and max is 0.002” or less. Lexas, Acura, Cadillac and dozens has “Zero” lateral run out.
Place rotor on lathe, make clean smooth cut. Mag base dial shows zero. Loosen nut, hold shaft still and rotate rotor 180 degrees & tighten. Mag base w/dial indicator reads 0.032”? File burrs from inside holder on the flat steel/table/Floor, use a stone and finish wish sandpaper (Wet-Dry 400 Grit), cut with drum cutter on outside using brake lever. Now, take a cold chisel and mark lathe nose & holder, wipe white paint in Mark. Place holder on mark each time and the tech will not cut lateral runout into rotor each time. You have just qualified the brake lathe. Do this for your local shop w/manager or tech standing there. You will be a hero!
I haven't had an actual problem LIGHTLY clamping rubber hoses. Squeeze 'em too hard, sure, you'll damage them.Just don’t use vise grips on brake hose. Use a cut rubber inner tube from bicycle shop trash. Place and hold with a medium spring clamp if a banjo type to keep from leaking, before flushing. Just a thought, as we used to have raced in shop.
I've always been concerned that grease just catches brake dust, making a "lapping paste" that makes wear worse.Drum on rear. Ever dress the 3 pads on leading and 3 on trailing side. They match the shoe dimples on each. Always use PTFE grease on each pad so the shoes engage & retract perfect. Just old school.
I think I have that same soldering gun, without the Snap-On branding.soldered with my antique SnapOn RB450 with new 450 watt tip ($30)
Touch it with a jeweler's file, or extra-fine sandpaper/emery cloth.That spot above my thumb was what I was talking about. Your finger nail can grab it, but that’s about it.
Poke a rubber-tipped blow-gun into the brake hose port. Reduce air pressure to ~40--50 psi instead of 90+ using a regulator. Hold the lubricated-with-brake-fluid piston with three fingers on it's inside, and inflate the boot as you push the piston down. The piston kinda flubbers on top of the dust boot. When everything aligns, the boot blows over the bottom of the piston, and you stop the air flow.Do you have a favorite method for reinstalling the piston?