No crank no start

thinger2 said:

Always disconnect the negative terminal first.
No matter what you are doing.
And always reconnect the negative terminal last .
Never pull the postive if the negative is stiill connected.
Pull Negative first and put negative on last.
Negitive first and negitive last.
Basically the positve side is the power and the negative side is the ground.
The ground keeps random power from going through components that power shouldnt go through.
Never ever disconnect the positive battery cable with the negative connected.
No matter what you are doing you have to pull the negative cable off of the battery first.
Negative first and negative last.

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Schurkey said:

"Autozone" or most any other auto parts store does not genuinely load-test batteries. They have a cheap hand-held machine that plays Van Halen at the battery until it submits, then generates a print-out showing battery capacity based on capacitance, or resistance, or the phase of the moon.

A REAL load test will actually load the battery instead of simulating a load test.

IF there's an intermittent connection inside the battery, a single load-test may not catch the battery when the connection is poor.


New ones, genuine copper not crappy copper-coated aluminum, (CCA) with built-in terminals NOT TEMPORARY CLAMP-ON TERMINALS that everyone on Earth seems to think are permanent replacements.

At least 4-gauge, not cheap and thin 6-gauge which is what the parts stores around here want to sell. Not thicker than 2-gauge. You don't need heavier than 2-gauge cables, and gigantically thick cables will need to be supported so they don't pull too hard on whatever they're attached to.

It would be worth checking the service manual for your vehicle to determine the size of the original cables.

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Nw2000 said:

I’ll check the manual tomorrow and see what size cable it recommends.

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Nw2000 said:

Worst case I can just take out the positive battery cable and find the equivalent size at the store.

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Nw2000 said:

Where can I get the battery legitimately load tested?

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Schurkey said:

Yes.


Unless someone has already replaced the original cable with a cheapie.


Hard to say. There was a big push years ago, shops were dumping "real" load-testers to "upgrade" to the simulated-load testers. The simulated ones are cheaper, easier-to-use, probably have multi-language "assistance", and on-board printers so the customer has "evidence" of the failure.

Call around, see who still has got the "good ol' equipment".

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Nw2000 said:

It’s not a side terminal battery. It has the post on the top with the universal battery terminal. It was like that when I got the truck so no telling how old they are.

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Nw2000 said:

Sounds good I’ll check the manual tomorrow and see what size cable it recommends. Worst case I can just take out the positive battery cable and find the equivalent size at the store.

Where can I get the battery legitimately load tested? Thanks.

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Schurkey said:

built-in terminals NOT TEMPORARY CLAMP-ON TERMINALS that everyone on Earth seems to think are permanent replacements.

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Schurkey said:

You must be registered for see images attach

Yeah, those crappy temporary terminals. They're a plague.

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