Z-height (stock torsion bar setting)??!

[AuroraGirl]

So my K3500 4x4 “Z height” should measure between 5.5-5.9 inches?

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[Papikev252]

we dont know what your f'ing truck is

Explain. Put it in your sig or type it out.

I said K3500 4x4 in a GMT400 Forum they only have one type of control arm. I didn’t think I’d have to go that in depth I wasn’t asking about an engine or mechanical thing…. 99 K3500 CCLB 7.4L vortec with forged lower control arms.

 

[Papikev252]

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But thank you for this as well

 

[AuroraGirl]

I said K3500 4x4 in a GMT400 Forum they only have one type of control arm. I didn’t think I’d have to go that in depth I wasn’t asking about an engine or mechanical thing…. 99 K3500 CCLB 7.4L vortec with forged lower control arms.

So my K3500 4x4 “Z height” should measure between 5.5-5.9 inches?\

I asked for your truck specifically because engine, trans, year, and all that stuff is relevant to get accurate trim height data. A vehicle with a different sized wheel/rim as an option but overall same diameter is possible to have a different trim height spec, is it off by much? no but yours is a heavy voi with a pig of an engine ontop of being heavy already

 

[Schurkey]

I feel like one of the few people who's still at stock ride height around here, and this is definitely getting saved. Appreciate it.

You're not the only one at stock ride height. It's just that those of us who don't dick with ride height don't tend to make noise about it.

I tend to avoid lifted/lowered threads, 'cause I've generally got nothing useful to say.

The biggest problem I'm finding, is the Service Manual says I have to tighten the Lower Control Arm bolts while the "Z" height is in spec.

But it's not adjustable on a 2WD with coil springs, like it is on a 4WD or HD with Torsion Bars.

All they're really saying is that whatever the ride-height of the vehicle is--stock or modified--you need to tighten bonded rubber control arm bushings at that ride height. Lotsa guys tighten the control arm bolts with the suspension drooping, 'cause it's way easier to access the bolts then. About two weeks later, they notice that the "springs have broken-in". No, what happened is that the bonded rubber bushings have torn the bonding. Next up: Suspension squeaks and failure to hold alignment angles.

One of the wonderful things about Polyurethane control arm bushings is that they're NOT bonded. The control arm bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position, including full droop.

So my K3500 4x4 “Z height” should measure between 5.5-5.9 inches?

Yes. As said--measured properly, it makes ZERO difference what wheels/tires you have.

 

[AuroraGirl]

You're not the only one at stock ride height. It's just that those of us who don't dick with ride height don't tend to make noise about it.

I tend to avoid lifted/lowered threads, 'cause I've generally got nothing useful to say.


All they're really saying is that whatever the ride-height of the vehicle is--stock or modified--you need to tighten bonded rubber control arm bushings at that ride height. Lotsa guys tighten the control arm bolts with the suspension drooping, 'cause it's way easier to access the bolts then. About two weeks later, they notice that the "springs have broken-in". No, what happened is that the bonded rubber bushings have torn the bonding. Next up: Suspension squeaks and failure to hold alignment angles.

One of the wonderful things about Polyurethane control arm bushings is that they're NOT bonded. The control arm bolts can be tightened with the suspension in any position, including full droop.


Yes. As said--measured properly, it makes ZERO difference what wheels/tires you have.

Also, on the control arm bushings, its important to have it at ride height because assuming they dont tear or you barely had it lifted up compared to height, they would otherwise be preloaded while moving at ride height, side to side difference like that could cause it to behave oddly, almost like a spring were very different side to side or a worn out shock on one and a new offroad ready kyb or something on the otherside.
But generally yeah we want our suspensions to be unloaded at normal ride scenarios, this comes into play for certain sway bar setups, because setting the sway bar mounts/end links with variation might make the curve-taking behavior different or may straight up be pulling one side while sitting normally
This depends on how and what the bars attach to tho