If you do not
EVER intend to run a trailer, the wiring is fairly simple for ARTEB taillights.
These instructions are for 1999 Carryovers/Suburbans/Tahoes/etc, but probably applicable to earlier models models with a few changes.
‣ Clip wires going into A1 and E2 from the I/P harness going to the the multifunction switch (C266).
‣ Extend and run the STOP wire taped to the harness coming from C104(E).
‣ Split the Stop wire near the rear (Best location is near C409 connector) and run wires to left and right tail light plug.
‣ Get 2X
Metri-Pack 280 5 Way Female Pigtails and cut and splice the wire from the old connector to the new as follows:
‣ Left (Driver) Connector
‣ Old (A) to New (E) [GND]
‣ Old (B) to New (A) [STP/TRN (now just TRN)]
‣ Old (C) to New (D) [B/U]
‣ Old (E) to New (B) [PRK]
‣ Stop from C104(E) to New (C) [STP]
‣ Right (Passenger) Connector (Yes L and R ARTEB Taillight boards connectors are mirrored)
‣ Old (A) to New (A) [GND]
‣ Old (B) to New (E) [STP/TRN (now just TRN)]
‣ Old (C) to New (B) [B/U]
‣ Old (E) to New (D) [PRK]
‣ Stop from C104(E) to New (C) [STP]
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Only issues with this other than the aforementioned inability to run a trailer (trailer stop/turn connections would only have turn signals), is the lower gauge wire running to the rear for the stop lamps.
The listed size of the C104(E) conductor is 0.8 mm² (18 AWG).
For GMT400's, ampacity for conductors can be as much guesswork as a science.
Best guess from
this site that takes gauge, temp rating and ambient temp into account, is 8 Amps.
Given the stop lamp, (a 3156 Bulb, or just the outer terminals of a 3057 bulb) is 27 to 29 W when 12V applied ( resistance when powered R = V²/P = 12.8²/27 = 6Ω).
That
should be fine for just two bulbs in parallel (1/R₁+1/R₂ = 1/Rₑ | 1/6Ω+1/6Ω = 1/3Ω | Rₑ = 3Ω | 12.8V / 3Ω = 4.27A).
BUT I DO NOT GAURENTEE THIS AND AM NOT ACCOUNTABLE IF THINGS GO ASS-OVER-TEAKETTLE.
Now if you plan to run a trailer, things get complicated.
You would still need to clip and cap A1 and E2 in the I/P Harness, but then need to recombine the stop and turn signals somewhere else downstream for the trailer.
This can be done with some relay logic and 3X changeover relays (I would recommend finding one with diodes and really fast response times).
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This could be done with individually sealed relays and inline fuses but I would recommend a box for it.
There are a few relay boxes that I think fit the bill for this.
The
GEP 48 with 3X
280 Micro Relays. (This has the added benifit of being able to isolate the stop relay from the turn relays with 15A fuses as well.
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The
Littlefuse 60 with 3x
280 Metri-Pack relays.
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The
TE 27P with 3X
BOSCH Mini Relays (Same Layout as the LF 60)
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I would recommend going with 14 or 12 AWG (2 or 3 mm²) conductors for the relay box's 12V input, and Trailer's STP/LT and STP/RT outputs.
16 or 18 AWG (1.0 or 0.8 mm²) conductors for STP, and LT, RT inputs and GND.
MIL-W-16878/4 PTFE insulated wire would be best as it is rated for 200°C (392°F) before breakdown and PTFE is very durable and chemically resistant.
However it is costly, so here is a breakdown of other cable types that would work:
‣ GPT: General PVC insulation, 85°C (185°F)
‣ GXL: General XLPE Insulation, 125°C (257°F)
‣ SXL: Thick Walled XLPE Insulation, 125°C (257°F)
Where the relay box resides and how the conductors are run are additional headaches.
It could reside in the engine compartment and tap into the STOP and turn signals at the C104 (a 5-Way Metri-Pack 280) connector (C104(C) is Rear Left, C104(D) is Rear Right Turn).
This would require running a new wiring harness to rear for the taillight STP and trailer STP/LT and STP/RT conductors and a new taillight harness.
Alternatively, it could reside attached to the frame at the rear, and plug into the C409 (a 4-Way Weatherpack) connector, then go to a new taillight harness.
This would still require running the C104(E) STP conductor back, and you would have to tap into the 12V line from the taped wiring loom.