Torque spec for 1996 Silverado K1500 4WD Hub to Steering Knuckle Bolts?

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VTSilverado

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I'm replacing the front hubs on my 1996 Silverado and I'm seeing bolt specs all over the place.

One Youtube video says the bolts don't have a torque spec so tighten well.
Another youtube video says 133 ft lbs
Youtube A1 parts video here says 184 ft lbs.
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One commenter on the forum said 100 ft lbs.
The Torque Specs thread here on the forum says 187 ft lbs
1996 GM manual downloaded from this forum says 133 ft lbs. for the 4WD front suspension

My torque wrench goes to 170 ft lbs.

I'm thinking the GM Manual mus be the best authority???

Also, some YT vids suggest threadlocker, some anti-seize, but I thought that in general torqueing specs were only for dry fit ups?

Also I'm really leary of adding threadlocker -- I had to cut off the old bolts because I couldn't get the old ones out, then heat and wrench out the remaining studs -- a major hassle. Anti-seize would be nice but if it's supposed to be dry fit up then I don't want to do that.
 
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1998_K1500_Sub

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My notes from when I replaced mine on my 1998 say 133lbft.

My notes say: See Helm manual, Vol 2, pg 3-74, “Wheel Hub, Seal and Bearing Replacement (4WD)”

See Steps 9 and 10, this from the 1998 FSM. You probably found the same information when you checked the manual for your year.

You must be registered for see images attach
 
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VTSilverado

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Thanks Nitro Junkie. That did it. I went with the 133, and dry.

Now puttin in the new rotors and calipers......

Might have this thing on the road this evening.... after 3 years sitting....
 

GoToGuy

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Usually then a service bulletin is issued, for corrections. It all depends on dillegent they are.
 

VTSilverado

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All sealed up this evening: new hubs, calipers, pads, rotors. Hub bolts to 133, axle nuts to 165, the abs sensors work, ABS light went out on the dash after start. It's still on the jack stands, though, didn't hit the road this evening as hoped... I still have to attach the hydraulic lines and bleed the system.

One new fly in the ointment -- I set the tail lights in place while testing but didn't screw them in. I put the bedliner back in. I reattached the tailgate and closed it. Uh-oh the tailgate latch is broken. Now I have to figure out how get it open to attach the tail light screws....:doh2:
 

someotherguy

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While I've found some helpful info in youtube videos, I don't like to rely on them. It's too easy to trust people that may not be qualified to hand out info to the masses while holding themselves forth to be some kind of expert. Watching Freddy "Tavarish" break bolts off in his Lamborghini clutch by overtorquing the holy hell out of those tiny fasteners, because he was going "by the book" - on an aftermarket clutch with different fastener sizes - was painful. When you look at what the book says and it's clearly too much for the fastener size, common sense should take over.

For your tailgate, the latches usually don't fail, most likely the plastic clip on one of the rods has broken at the handle mechanism. Pop the bezel off and have a look.

Richard
 
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