Talk me into, or out of, it...

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SNCTMPL

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2015
Messages
597
Reaction score
2,296
Location
Reno
15043064 driver side, 15043063 passenger side, GM Genuine part #'s. I got mine from amazon for pretty much the same price as other sources. $86 after tax seems like a bit but they're brand new GM instead of hunting for boneyard ones and prepping/repainting, plus time/fuel spent going to find some. Houston's a big city but all the boneyards are not close to me at all.

Richard
Thank you, got them in my cart.
 

termite

Definitely NOT Awesome
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
1,458
Reaction score
3,648
Location
wv
I pinched one about as hard as I dared, unhappy that it left dents in the fabric that I'm not sure will come out. It made no noticeable difference. I feel like anything sticky I spray in there wouldn't be a lasting or effective measure, just be messy. Wouldn't know what to use and it feels like you'd need to get it right the first time, because anything else you try will be less likely to work once there's something else already in there and you can't clean it out.

I'm more tempted to try bending the rod as suggested but I'll tell you these don't bend easily.

Richard
How about increasing the rod diameter with some heat shrink tubing? Not the adhesive lined, at first.
 

Scooterwrench

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2023
Messages
2,661
Reaction score
5,067
Location
Fanning Springs,FL.
Setting the bar really high for tonight, I needed an easy win.

Installed the new GM hook-style wiper arms and some new blades. This was a nice upgrade!

What's odd is I already knew there's a big difference between the driver and passenger side with this style, as evidenced by different part #'s, but mostly by the fact that if you swap them to the wrong side it will become evident very quickly.. the old peg style seem to be the exact same part for both sides.

I saw elsewhere someone mention that the hook style "sit lower on the glass" but this is not accurate. With no adjustment to the wiper linkages at all, just a straight swap from peg to hook, mine rest in the exact same spot on the glass. I tried first to get a pic showing the dust line from the old wiper when I removed it, but it wouldn't show.

Old vs. new
You must be registered for see images attach


And all new...
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Richard
While we're on the subject of wiper arms I don't recommend buying the LMC wiper arms. The springs are weak and the wiper arms lift off the windshield at 50 MPH and above. I saved my old springs and am tempted to try and install them in the new arms.
 

someotherguy

Even more awesome in person
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
11,062
Reaction score
17,830
Location
Houston TX
How about increasing the rod diameter with some heat shrink tubing? Not the adhesive lined, at first.
Not a bad idea except the design of them won't allow for it. They're actually slightly difficult to install already; it's surprising that they flop down the way they do because the initial fit feels pretty tight.

If it helps understand the design, it's sort of like a C-shaped metal tube that runs the length of the visor board, and it's got a clamp at the rod end that's kind of like an inch-wide U shape. The rod itself has a flat area that presumably is a detent to hold it in the forward position.

Old visor board in place on the rod
You must be registered for see images attach


Clamp where most of the holding force is exerted, IMO
You must be registered for see images attach


Board removed from the rod, you can see the flat area the clamp forms against the rod where the channel on the board splits
You must be registered for see images attach


And finally the flat area on the top edge of the rod, a little tough to see, but in the clamp area.
You must be registered for see images attach


It should be worth noting it's a struggle to get the old one to slide off the rod, and the new one to go on. That's some kind of grease on the rod that was there originally. It's slimy, not sticky, and it doesn't seem to interfere at all with the holding force because I cleaned it off the passenger side as that's the one I tried installing first. The original boards don't flop around, but then again they're a little bit lighter without the thin cardboard shell and the material.

One can only assume the Acme Auto sun visors are designed the same way inside, because the only way you would know for sure is to rip them apart. :(

Richard
 

Orpedcrow

I don’t know what I’m doing
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2022
Messages
2,829
Reaction score
7,404
Location
East Texas
I can almost guarantee that the clamping mechanism is spring steel and that’s why squeezing them isn’t producing any results. :( You have to go a lot further to achieve plastic deformation and allow the adjustment to “set”.

It’s also probably impossible to feel what’s going on inside with the outer cardboard and fabric covering it.
If you have an old roller bearing or cut up a bolt with a long shank or something, you could try clamping just underneath the rod.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

termite

Definitely NOT Awesome
Joined
Feb 18, 2018
Messages
1,458
Reaction score
3,648
Location
wv
Not a bad idea except the design of them won't allow for it. They're actually slightly difficult to install already; it's surprising that they flop down the way they do because the initial fit feels pretty tight.

If it helps understand the design, it's sort of like a C-shaped metal tube that runs the length of the visor board, and it's got a clamp at the rod end that's kind of like an inch-wide U shape. The rod itself has a flat area that presumably is a detent to hold it in the forward position.

Old visor board in place on the rod
You must be registered for see images attach


Clamp where most of the holding force is exerted, IMO
You must be registered for see images attach


Board removed from the rod, you can see the flat area the clamp forms against the rod where the channel on the board splits
You must be registered for see images attach


And finally the flat area on the top edge of the rod, a little tough to see, but in the clamp area.
You must be registered for see images attach


It should be worth noting it's a struggle to get the old one to slide off the rod, and the new one to go on. That's some kind of grease on the rod that was there originally. It's slimy, not sticky, and it doesn't seem to interfere at all with the holding force because I cleaned it off the passenger side as that's the one I tried installing first. The original boards don't flop around, but then again they're a little bit lighter without the thin cardboard shell and the material.

One can only assume the Acme Auto sun visors are designed the same way inside, because the only way you would know for sure is to rip them apart. :(

Richard
I've never looked at one pulled off the rod. Learned something new already today from unsuccessful spitballing.
 
Top