Yes, a new crank and matching bearings.Are you using a new crank or did you have it machined after spinning the bearing?
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Yes, a new crank and matching bearings.Are you using a new crank or did you have it machined after spinning the bearing?
If you're doing that, spend the tiny amt of money and wait a few days to have it done right vs going at it with the wrong tools, fubaring it.Yes, a new crank and matching bearings.
Admittedly I've never used specific assembly lube, but I can't imagine it will all have gone by the time you need it and, there's always priming the galleries prior to start-up. In short, I wouldn't let that slight (IMO) concern dictate the build timeframe.but the bigger problem is that I already have the crank and cam in with assembly lube so I'm on the clock to finish assembly and get it started while the lube is still able to do it's job on initial startup.
Not everybody has $10k to throw at a 29 year old street engine making 165HP, so please forgive me for trying to save a dollar this one time. Contrary to what you might be inclined to think judging by your aggressive tone, I have tried to do my best in rebuilding this engine the right way with a new crank and even a new camshaft (because the old cam was slightly scored, maybe could have gotten away with it since it's a hydraulic roller, but just went new to be safe)Are you isolated between the bitterroot & the frank church? There is no magic trick here
No matter what: with your hat in hand & head bowed, go back to the shopowner and beg forgiveness for whatever he thinks ya did ... please sir, I promise on old yellers soul etc etc etc ........... either that or load up and spend more money & time up the road. The job takes a pro well under 1/2 hour.
Sir, perhaps you're over-sensitive here. As for myself, I am simply stating facts that, uncomfortable or not, are intended to steer you away from making a poor decision and a problem-prone assembly. I wasn't there to observe any of this, but based on your description ... I'd be very leary of using any piston, whose pin was wrecked upon removal. Good luck with your project.Not everybody has $10k to throw at a 29 year old street engine making 165HP, so please forgive me for trying to save a dollar this one time. Contrary to what you might be inclined to think judging by your aggressive tone, I have tried to do my best in rebuilding this engine the right way with a new crank and even a new camshaft (because the old cam was slightly scored, maybe could have gotten away with it since it's a hydraulic roller, but just went new to be safe)
In any case, I went ahead and took the piston to a machine shop. Trying not to add too much time to this build, I found another shop farther away that said they could do it in 1-2 days but they felt there would be a good chance that the piston would break. We agreed to proceed anyway and they managed to get the pin out the next day, though the pin didn't survive, the piston did so a new wrist pin was installed.
$40 and + 2h 40m of round trips later I finally have a piston and rod assembly that I can use to continue assembly.
Thanks for the input everyone.
Well, it wasn't completely destroyed, it just had 3-4 score marks on it. I trust they made sure the pin bore in the piston wasn't going to cause problems later. The new wrist pin moves beautifully, but I suppose I'll have to wait and see how it runs.I'd be very leary of using any piston, whose pin was wrecked upon removal.