PRND indicator staying on causing battery to die

[Maxlaf226]

I have a 96 k2500 and the PRND indicator light stays on causing the battery to die (that’s the only circuit drawing current when the truck is off). I’ve replaced the neutral safety switch and the ignition switch along with a new key cylinder since I was already there. Another thing is you don’t need a key to turn the ignition and start the truck, not sure if that has anything to do with it

 

[AK49BWL]

That circuit gets power via the ignition switch in the "Off" position (not to be confused with "Lock") so it's possible you clocked the switch incorrectly on installation.

 

[Maxlaf226]

just took it back apart and you’re right. When I cycle the ignition switch with a screw driver I can turn it enough to turn everything off including the PRND light. But when I put the switch into the column/ignition the key can’t cycle it back far enough to shut it off all the way. Any idea how to manually clock it so the key turns the switch all the way off?

 

[glock20]

what shape is the key in? Could it be worn enough to affect the movement of the lock cylinder?

 

[Maxlaf226]

what shape is the key in? Could it be worn enough to affect the movement of the lock cylinder?

I have a brand new cylinder with new keys, and I tried the old one and they both do the same thing.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Are you sure that you got a lock cylinder for an automatic trans? there are 2 different numbers, one for manual D1487C GM# or Auto trans D1405D GM#( it says it requires coding at the dealership)

 

[Maxlaf226]

I got a direct replacement for D1405D which I need and it came with a new set of keys so it shouldn’t need to be recoded unless I want to use my old keys. If I’m understanding that correctly.

 

[Maxlaf226]

Are you sure that you got a lock cylinder for an automatic trans? there are 2 different numbers, one for manual D1487C GM# or Auto trans D1405D GM#( it says it requires coding at the dealership)

I don’t believe the cylinder is the problem because with the cylinder out and just turning the mechanism in the column with pliers I can see it doesn’t turn enough to turn the switch all the way off, it only needs like 5 more degrees of turn

 

[AK49BWL]

I have never actually done an ignition switch on a 95+ so please excuse my ignorance on the matter... But they're gear-driven in there, right? And my assumption is, it's possible to pull the switch out, move the gear maybe one tooth over, and put it back in? Or is the gear keyed so it only fits in one position?

Oh and is it the same part number for tilt vs non-tilt columns? Just trying to cover all the bases here.

 

[someotherguy]

I have never actually done an ignition switch on a 95+ so please excuse my ignorance on the matter... But they're gear-driven in there, right? And my assumption is, it's possible to pull the switch out, move the gear maybe one tooth over, and put it back in? Or is the gear keyed so it only fits in one position?

Oh and is it the same part number for tilt vs non-tilt columns? Just trying to cover all the bases here.

Really different from the older columns; it's just a switch in a box.. and from what I can tell, there's no difference for the switch in a tilt/non-tilt column.

But I wonder if it's a part quality issue. There's a range of brands out there.. you can spend $45 up to $132 for apparently the same application.

Maybe the part is defective? Maybe the column is damaged from a theft attempt so things don't fit right anymore? Some info on why all these parts were replaced might help.

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Richard