pinion seal replacement trouble

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Isaacmacleod

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Those quotes seem high for replacing your seal.
I love that story man.
I pray i meet another Gmt400 guy living near me that i can paddle ideas off of and ask for help when i need it!

Also just wanted to clarify these quotes were for changing the pinion crush sleeve, which I seem to have overtightened while messing with the seal, causing the inner bearing to have too much preload.

I understand i’d be paying someone for their thousands of dollars in tools, and experience, and also the peace of mind i would get from putting this whole mess on someone else’s shoulders.

But like you said, many people get these rear ends put together with no problem. Pray for me i guess
 

Isaacmacleod

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how worth it/ not worth it would it be to also change the carrier bearings and the axle bearings at this point.

The axle bearings and seals i think I can do pretty easily but changing the carrier bearings will pretty much ensure that i have to mess with the shims right?

Where as if i rock with the current carrier bearings i might be able to just reuse the old shims amiright?
 
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Isaacmacleod

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But I just read that by altering the preload on my now 30 year old- carrier bearings (even slightly, which i probably will)
Im just asking for them to give out sooner.

Versus yanking the carrier bearings with a two jaw puller and putting in new ones, and guaranteeing i have to play with the shims a bit, but maybe worth it??
 

Isaacmacleod

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I wouldn't replace carrier bearings that weren't affected by you playing with the pinion nut.

I wouldn't replace axle bearings for the same reasons.
What about the inner pinion bearing which i noticed was running hot?

It definitely got hot, not sure if it became damaged at all. I drive it probably 25 miles total with the over-preload.

Could i get away with just changing out the crush sleeve?

this is assuming that i can safely remove the inner bearing and it is still in good condition.

If i don’t have to change any bearings and raceways out, I would be very confident reusing the shims exactly how they came out.

If all i have to do is put the right preload on the crush sleeve and not mess with anything else this would be easy.
 

SNCTMPL

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I just read through this thread and here’s what I would tell you.

Schurkey gave you all the advice you needed in post #16.

I would keep looking for a sf 14b to swap in, if you need to drive the truck do so sparingly, but you run the risk of destroying the 10b and not being able to use it at all.

If you decide to repair the 10b plan on replacing both pinion bearings and depending on the mileage maybe the carrier bearings. I would get a couple of crush sleeves, there’s a good chance that you over tighten one, so l would have an extra one or two on hand. You will need a press, bearing separator and beam style in/lb torque wrench. If you have to buy any tools it’s money that could go towards a 14b.

Reuse the factory pinion shim and carrier shims and the gear pattern should be fine. If you need the preload specs I can post them for you, working on differentials isn’t too terribly difficult, but does require a lot of patience.

Also, check your yoke, if it’s leaking again it probably has a groove worn into it.
 

Isaacmacleod

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Schurkey gave you all the advice you needed in post #16.
Agreed,
Also sorry for posting so darn much in this thread, I’ve been going through a lot.

I would keep looking for a sf 14b to swap in, if you need to drive the truck do so sparingly, but you run the risk of destroying the 10b and not being able to use it at all.
I found two, 14b semi floaters in the right ratio here in RI.
However, they both come off of 2500HDs
with 8 lug axles shafts and big ass brakes.
I will keep looking, any help would be much appreciated.
If you decide to repair the 10b plan on replacing both pinion bearings and depending on the mileage maybe the carrier bearings.
That’s the plan.
Mileage is at 68,000
I will replace the pinion bearings since they did get hot but i’m still debating should I mess with new carrier bearings.
Reuse the factory pinion shim and carrier shims and the gear pattern should be fine. If you need the preload specs I can post them for you
Okay, I will use the same shims and try to be careful while doing it.

I’ll make sure i have some extra crush sleeves.

The preload specs would be nice I can see that it wants .004 inches added to both sides of the carrier to give it preload and the final shim needs to be driven with a soft hammer.

But i don’t see the carrier preload torque spec if there is even such a thing
 

Isaacmacleod

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Whyyy shouldn’t i be changing my axle seals and bearings out at this point also?
Considering everything else has started leaking after changing to new fluid isn’t it kindof proactive maintenance to assume the axle seals would be going soon.
Also, carrier bearings, id really like to get a definitive answer.

It would save me a lot of time and effort to just leave them alone but I don’t want to have to open this thing up ever again after this

I have a timken master kit which came with all the bearings, and i ordered axle seals and bearings.
I can send them back but like…. I have them
 

Isaacmacleod

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ALSO
proud of myself because i decided to do this in my driveway, sans bringing the pinion to my do it yourself center for their hydraulic press.
 
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