P1345 code assist. Questions. 1996 GMC K1500

[Road Trip]

since the mechanic is my wife's uncle I told him the good news. He was surprised just as much as me.
Height makes since. This intake it from a lower mileage engine. Since the original has 529k miles on it. Could be slightly thicker? I figured now a good time to change it when I did the valve adjustment.
The theory certainly makes sense.

No kidding? Not only was the manifold disturbed, but it's a different one to boot?
(I have to apologize, I'm relatively new here, and I'm hitting this cold -- I've yet to
read about your 383 build.)

So yeah, different intakes can certainly vary in height, even back where the dizzy is
stuffed.

Just make sure to tell your wife's uncle that when it comes to engines, everything
affects everthing else. This stuff can get all knotted up in a big hurry. :0)

Now that the dust has settled I'll have to find your 383 thread and come up to speed.
(I enjoy the build threads in here a lot.)

 

[SUBURBAN5]

No kidding? Not only was the manifold disturbed, but it's a different one to boot?
(I have to apologize, I'm relatively new here, and I'm hitting this cold -- I've yet to
read about your 383 build.)

So yeah, different intakes can certainly vary in height, even back where the dizzy is
stuffed.

Just make sure to tell your wife's uncle that when it comes to engines, everything
affects everthing else. This stuff gets all knotted up in a big hurry. :0)

Now that the dust has settled I'll have to find your 383 thread and come up to speed.
(I enjoy the build threads in here a lot.)

No problem
The motor is actually a crate from gm
HT383E it was mentioned slightly in Suburban down thread. Along with other random things that happened to me that year.

 

[drakanov32]

Hello all! First post, long time lurker, recently came to the decision to give my 96 yukon an overhaul. Came into the same issue with the new distributor phasing, -20 on one tooth, +17 on a different one with the max I could adjust to -14 and +7 on the respective tooth.

Pulled the new one and looked at the whole assembly like all these previous posts stated, my specific new dizzy is a United Motor Products 9362 all aluminum and flipping the cam gear 180 also fixed my issue.

Just wanted to update just in case anyone runs into the same issue with the same distributor. This specific one doesn't have any markings on the shaft or housing other than the 8 triangle by the rotor and the dimple on the gear, NOR does the dimple/pin line up with the spark contact on the rotor either so I couldn't rely on those markings.

Appreciate all the help y'all, you've no idea how much you saved my butt with diagnosing my timing issue.

 

[movietvet]

Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

 

[Road Trip]

Hello all! First post, long time lurker, recently came to the decision to give my 96 yukon an overhaul. Came into the same issue with the new distributor phasing, -20 on one tooth, +17 on a different one with the max I could adjust to -14 and +7 on the respective tooth.

Pulled the new one and looked at the whole assembly like all these previous posts stated, my specific new dizzy is a United Motor Products 9362 all aluminum and flipping the cam gear 180 also fixed my issue.

Just wanted to update just in case anyone runs into the same issue with the same distributor. This specific one doesn't have any markings on the shaft or housing other than the 8 triangle by the rotor and the dimple on the gear, NOR does the dimple/pin line up with the spark contact on the rotor either so I couldn't rely on those markings.

Appreciate all the help y'all, you've no idea how much you saved my butt with diagnosing my timing issue.

Greetings drakanov32,

That's a great way to introduce yourself to the forum! I really appreciate you taking
the time to share your experience with others who are researching how to fix a P1345 DTC
where the distributor CMP sensor can't be synchronized to the CKP sensor in the as-purchased
state.

Good stuff! And Welcome to the GMT400 forum.

Cheers --

 

[oefvet0708]

Hello, so instead of trying to post another thread I figured I would post my question here. I recently brought a 98 k1500 with a lot of miles but a couple years ago I did full time up on this truck a couple years ago for the previous owner but it just hasn’t ran right before or after. It is very hard to start cold, and misfires pretty bad with wot. So I hooked up a scan tool and I’m getting p1345. I did the crank relearn but still getting the code right away. So everybody is saying the dizzy is out of time, the pid is saying -24*. So I keep seeing ppl say advance it a tooth. So tonight I went out to give it shot, but when I pulled it I realized that it’s slotted for the oil pump shaft.

So how can you actually advance it a tooth? I tried it stays up off the hold down about a 1/4 inch unless I put it back in the correct orientation. Tried looking it up on YouTube, same thing advance it a tooth and poof it’s back together and running perfectly, but I’m not seeing how to actually it a tooth. Thank you.

 

[Road Trip]

So how can you actually advance it a tooth? I tried it stays up off the hold down about a 1/4 inch unless I put it back in the correct orientation. Tried looking it up on YouTube, same thing advance it a tooth and poof it’s back together and running perfectly, but I’m not seeing how to actually it a tooth. Thank you.

Greetings oefvet0708,

The trick to advancing the distributor one tooth relative to the camshaft is to:

1) Remove distributor.

2) Get a long screwdriver, engage it with the oil pump drive, and turn it slightly so that
the oil pump drive slot *will* line up with the distributor shaft when it's coming down
with the new orientation due to being advanced one tooth. NOTE: You will feel a slight
amount of resistance to turning the oil pump, but not that much. It may take a little
trial and error, but it will eventually work -- you will know that you got it right when the
dizzy drops right down while advanced that 1 tooth.

Give it a whirl and let us know how all this turns out.

Best of luck --

 

[Schurkey]

Or drop the distributor in where it needs to be, crank the engine until the distributor lines-up with the oil pump driveshaft and drops into place. Then, either reestablish TDC-Compression, and turn the distributor body as needed to get the sensor signals to align, or if the engine runs, use the scan tool to make final adjustment.

 

[oefvet0708]

Or drop the distributor in where it needs to be, crank the engine until the distributor lines-up with the oil pump driveshaft and drops into place. Then, either reestablish TDC-Compression, and turn the distributor body as needed to get the sensor signals to align, or if the engine runs, use the scan tool to make final adjustment.

Thanks guys this was my line of thought but wanted it confirmed by somebody else if it was going to work. I’ll try to give it a go today after work and see what happens. I do have a scan tool that reads the cam crank correlation. I’ll let you all know

 

[oefvet0708]

Just to touch base I was able to advance it by a tooth by pulling the dizzy and rotating the engine forward just slightly enough to put the gear advanced about 15* on start up and adjusted to +1. It’s very touchy to get cinched down. However now that issue is out of the way and the light is no longer being thrown I have multiple misfires. 3 and 6 for sure. I think it fuel related because anything more then part throttle it just falls on its face. If I try to blip the throttle it just cuts out and stumbles. So I got some testing to do this weekend