Nightmare 10” drum brakes

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Erik the Awful

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I sure f***ing don't. You only have to extract one of them and you insist on replacement.

Several years ago the rear wheel bearings in my Mustang started rumbling. I was leaving for Senior Non-Commissioned Officer school the next week, and I had time free that weekend. I went to pull the axles so I could replace the bearings, and sure enough, that little turd snapped right off in the middle of the threads. I didn't have the extractor kit. I put the head of the bolt back in place, torqued it down, and left for Montgomery, Alabama a few days later. A year later I finally got around to doing the bearing swap, and the extractor set barely survived. It came with two extractors, and I broke one of them before finally getting it out. A few months later the pinion bearing started rumbling. Doh!
 

Erik the Awful

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Nope. I owned the car from 4,000 miles on the odometer, and it never had anything done to the rearend. The bolts commonly snap on removal, that's why extractor kits are so prevalent. It also doesn't matter if it's a Chevy, Ford, or Chrysler. They all break.
 

smdk2500

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Nope. I owned the car from 4,000 miles on the odometer, and it never had anything done to the rearend. The bolts commonly snap on removal, that's why extractor kits are so prevalent. It also doesn't matter if it's a Chevy, Ford, or Chrysler. They all break.
I guess I'm lucky. Every one of them I've removed ive never had them break on removal or install.
 

Schurkey

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I have had to deal with broken cross-shaft retainer bolts a couple of times. They are NO damn fun at all.

OTOH, I don't think they break when removed. I think they break in service, you just don't know about it until you unthread the thing, and only the hex-head and threads come out, leaving the rest of the pin still in the differential.

I didn't know there was a special "extractor set" for them. Got a link or brand/part number? I've removed them with compressed air, a magnet, getting on my knees and praying, harsh language...and if all else fails, (1964 Chevy 1/2-ton pickup) hammering the cross-shaft out with a huge hammer and punch, deliberately shattering the remains of the lock-pin as the cross-shaft is pounded out, and risking breaking the differential carrier in the process.

No damned fun A-Tall.

I don't replace a retaining pin/bolt unless the one in there has broken. That's why the service manual says to use Loctite thread locker.
 

Supercharged111

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It probably came with 7200 GVWR wheel cylinders. SOME guys are installing the 8600 GVWR cylinders (slightly larger than the 7200 cylinders) as an "upgrade". I have no opinion on this. I haven't done that mod.

As long as he keeps the stock 1500 front calipers there isn't a terribly compelling reason to deviate from stock. At least not right off the bat.
 
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Well, I'm still searching for an axle. I haven't given up on this thread! The one axle I did get from the salvage yard I had to take back because the pinion gear had walked back and made contact with the carrier. It also came with no hardware so I'm not mad. I am having serious trouble finding the correct axle though. What I'm running into is being told it matches my criteria over the phone and then getting there and it being totally wrong.:mad: It doesn't help that most of the salvage yards near me don't have anyone employed that speaks English. Okay, rant over. stay tuned.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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Well, I'm still searching for an axle.

The guy who got me my 9.5" SF 11" drum six-lug lives a bit south of Louisville, in Bardstown, KY and I believe he's got access to a couple of others if you want one.

He of course has access to 8.5" w/ 11" drums too, those are plentiful.

He's in his 60s and knows the GMT400s quite well.

He might assist with delivery. In my case, he met me in Indianapolis.

If you want his contact info, PM me.
 
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