Looking for troubleshooting advice

[mayvillain]

I've just finished a new head gasket install; my '92 K1500 is now completely reassembled.

However, I have crank but no start—no sputtering or firing of any kind. I will take the air filter off to look closer at the TB and do some troubleshooting after work tonight, but am looking to crowdsource some ideas of where to start looking.

Along with the new head gaskets (and all gaskets pretty much everywhere), here's what else I've done:

1. Machined cylinder heads, re-seated valves, adjusted valve lash
2. Install new timing chain/sprockets
3. Install new radiator and water pump (filled w/ 3 gallons coolant mix)
4. New thermostat
5. New TV cable
6. New oil pressure sensor
7. New distributor rotor/cap (installed using this method, exactly)
8. New return fuel line (front half, stops next to fuel filter)

Some other things that happened:
- Drained my entire gas tank by mistake
- Spilled ~2 quarts transmission fluid (some in my mouth/eyes) taking off the TV cable

I'm guessing it has something to do with fuel delivery and/or timing.

If you have any ideas to chase down, post them here and I'll do it tonight. Thank you for considering.

 

[Schurkey]

'92 K1500

Apparently, a SBC. 5.7L as in the signature?

However, I have crank but no start—no sputtering or firing of any kind.

1. Machined cylinder heads, re-seated valves, adjusted valve lash

What is the cranking compression? There is no valve lash on a hydraulic lifter engine, but there is lifter preload. Is the lifter preload too tight, keeping the valves off the seats and destroying compression?

2. Install new timing chain/sprockets

Was the cam degreed, or the timing set just crammed-in "dot-to-dot"?

What is the cranking compression? Too low, or too high may indicate a mis-timed cam among other things.

7. New distributor rotor/cap (installed using this method, exactly)

Youtube allows anybody to upload a poorly-done video. That guy needs seven minutes to relay two or three minutes worth of info, and then totally misses the next two or three minutes of info that would actually get the initial timing set within a degree or two of the target.

I'm guessing it has something to do with fuel delivery and/or timing.

What is your fuel pressure? Do the injectors spray? Are the spark plugs fouled?

Do you have spark? If you have spark, then connect a timing light, is the initial timing somewhat reasonable?

 

[mayvillain]

Apparently, a SBC. 5.7L as in the signature?




What is the cranking compression? There is no valve lash on a hydraulic lifter engine, but there is lifter preload. Is the lifter preload too tight, keeping the valves off the seats and destroying compression?


Was the cam degreed, or the timing set just crammed-in "dot-to-dot"?

What is the cranking compression? Too low, or too high may indicate a mis-timed cam among other things.


Youtube allows anybody to upload a poorly-done video. That guy needs seven minutes to relay two or three minutes worth of info, and then totally misses the next two or three minutes of info that would actually get the initial timing set within a degree or two of the target.


What is your fuel pressure? Do the injectors spray? Are the spark plugs fouled?

Do you have spark? If you have spark, then connect a timing light, is the initial timing somewhat reasonable?

OK awesome, sounds like I need to add 'check the compression' to my troubleshooting. Thanks for all your suggestions.

I haven't had time to do any work yet, but I'll answer some of your questions now and get back once I've gone through them all:

5.7L as in the signature?

Yes

Was the cam degreed, or the timing set just crammed-in "dot-to-dot"?

I'm not sure what this means. I did not replace the camshaft. I just set the crank to TDC on the compression stroke and lined up the dots on the crank/cam sprockets.

What is your fuel pressure?

Not sure, don't have a pressure gauge. Sounds like I will need to pick one up.

Are the spark plugs fouled?

Spark plugs are brand new, but I haven't checked them for spark—I will do that.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

I did not replace the camshaft. I just set the crank to TDC on the compression stroke and lined up the dots on the crank/cam sprockets.

If you lined up the dots so, the dot on the crank is on top and the dot on the cam gear is on the bottom, then you stabbed the distributor pointing at #1, it's 180° off.

 

[mayvillain]

If you lined up the dots so, the dot on the crank is on top and the dot on the cam gear is on the bottom, then you stabbed the distributor pointing at #1, it's 180° off.

Is that so? That's exactly what I did.

This is how I installed the gears (see attached). That is the old setup, but I installed the new one same as.

So to turn the rotor 180º, do I have to take the cap off, un-bolt the rotor old-down bolt/clip, take the rotor out of the gear, twist it 180º and stab it back in?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

So to turn the rotor 180º, do I have to take the cap off, un-bolt the rotor old-down bolt/clip, take the rotor out of the gear, twist it 180º and stab it back in?

You have to pull the distributor, rotate the crank one rotation until the crank dot and cam dot are both on top of their respective gear. Then stab the distributor facing at #1 cyl.

Another way is to leaving the 2 dots facing each other, pull the distributor and point it at #6 wire on the cap.

 

[Erik the Awful]

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I'd pull the distributor up, spin the rotor 180°, and set it back down.