How To: converting to open element air cleaner.

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Swims350

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Well this is how I did mine and what I used. You may experience otherwise, maybe easier, or harder, not the same issues as me. I'll list them later.

Ok first off this is what ya got stock, or mine did, 88 k1500.
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Then of course you start removing your old stuff...
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Don't forget to remove your heat riser tube if you got one, mine didn't. Also check for any other lines or hoses hooked to it.

Once it's off you can remove the tbi spacer ring that the valve cover tube hooks to. Wiggle the tube off of it, mine was plastic tube with a rubber coupler, then lift off the ring.

OR.....

You can leave it,

I wanted to remove mine, it helps to accomplish the same as the "salad bowl mod" or the powercharger thing you can buy. it helps to unshroud the air going to the injectors.

Now remove your old air cleaner stud, mine was single stud, but I think the same part number will work for dual stud, you just remove the two and put the one in the center? Not sure on that one since I never done a dual stud tbi.

I bought this..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPE-4215/

The package said for 3 inc elements you don't need the goldish tube which is an extension, but I DID need it, and mine IS 3 inch tall element.

So, I screwed the extension about half way onto the stud, put in the thread piece, about half in half out, then put the jam nut on it and tightened it up. Then I put that in my tbi unit. I had to unplug the PS injector because before the stud tightened fully it hit the plugin, just push in the tab and lift off, tighten stud, place plugin back on top of the injector poles and push it down, it usually clicks once full on there.

Now I had read on thridgen about using flat elements and such, NONE WOULD FIT!!!

I had to get a RAISED BASE. if not then be prepared to buy a spacer or have it not fit without hitting something.

This is what I ordered...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3000B/

That STILL hit my coil. So I had to relocate it out of the way. it's held on the intake with 2 13mm or 1/2 head bolts, then find a place for it. I found a 10mm head bolt in the firewall and used it.

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Now someone asked me if this is a good enough ground, not sure how can I tell? it starts and runs.

Everything else fit fine for me now that the coil was gone. Now if you leave the tbi ring you won't have to move the coil, BUT the piece of thread that goes into the stud, would need to be longer. The stock stud isn't long enough either.

So now put down your base gasket, put on the base, make sure it sits flush all the way around the tbi neck, and isn't hitting anything. if not then proceed, if it does hit or not sitting flat, something is holding it up, find it, fix it accordingly, then proceed. Now if you wish to reuse the valve cover tube, for stock setups I would. I'm changing mine but going to use a breather cap in the chrome valve covers I bought. For now though I removed the plug from the air cleaner base, slid on a piece of 5/8 hose about 4 inches long, jammed the rubber end of the plastic valve cover tube into the 5/8 hose, and then put it on. it's purpose is to draw filtered air into the crankcase.

Put on your filer element of your choice, I used a 14x3 and lid of your choice. I actually bought this...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-9790/

but the base would not work, so I used the filter and top with the base mentioned above. I think summit sells tops only, and I know they sell the filters by themselves, but it may be cheaper to buy the cheapest complete set, then the base I listed and do the same as I did.

Now you can use the wing nut of your choice they have tons of different ones, or if your air cleaner kit comes with one you can use it.

If you have a heat riser and want to reuse it, not sure how you go about it.

NOW you can remove the stock ugly box. it's held on the inner fender by 2 13mm or 1/2 bolts, from underneath. Then you can lift it off and remove the whole thing. This leaves 2 bolts holes in your inner fender open, do as you wish with them, wire holder, bolts or plugs, bondo, weld, leave them open whatever.

Now I heard and read you can remove the hood to cowl seal to let out some hot air, but also heard it can let fumes inside the cab, not sure on that one. So that would be up to you.

Now that it's done...

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you can stand back and admire it, or take it for a ride.
 

Swims350

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the stock one wouldn't accept other nuts for some reason, I tried to put the other sleeve/extension on it and it would not fit. Not to mention it was too long. I think if I left it on, the way it is now I'd have 3/4 or 1/2 of threads sticking out the wing nut. I have a closed nut on it now so didn't want it long.

After having to put the extension on it's probably close to the stock length stud, but not sure. I'll have to compare them.
 

Dougm72

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can this be done with the vortec? or would just getting a C.A.I be the best bet? would the mass air flow senser be a issue?
 

Greg

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can this be done with the vortec? or would just getting a C.A.I be the best bet? would the mass air flow senser be a issue?

with the vortecs and the maf sensor you pretty much have to go with a CAI. the only way to do an open element is to put the maf basically right above the throttle body with the OEAC right on top and (i cant remember why) but the maf sensor needs room between it and the actual throttle body for it to do any good.
 

FastOrange

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the stock one wouldn't accept other nuts for some reason, I tried to put the other sleeve/extension on it and it would not fit. Not to mention it was too long. I think if I left it on, the way it is now I'd have 3/4 or 1/2 of threads sticking out the wing nut. I have a closed nut on it now so didn't want it long.

After having to put the extension on it's probably close to the stock length stud, but not sure. I'll have to compare them.

your right, i forgot they take some oddball nut.

Heres a tip for everyone, if you got some scrap threaded rod like Carbs use, you can bend it to use on a TBI.
 

97sierra

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yea about the vortec, most flow meters(which is basicly what a MAF is) need a straight run before and after to get an accurate reading across the meter so yea open element is not really an option, which sucks because is looks BAD A**
 

Swims350

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yea all thread or long enough rod you can bend to make work just fine. it's 1/4-20 thread too I'm pretty sure. I'd get a long one then cut off the extra, once cut off though have a nut on it before hand, that way once cut you can clean/cut the threads correctly by working the nut on and off, or if you have the right tap or thread chaser maybe?

Not sure how much it cost, but i got like $3 in that one, no bending or cutting needed.
 

Badass69

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yea about the vortec, most flow meters(which is basicly what a MAF is) need a straight run before and after to get an accurate reading across the meter so yea open element is not really an option, which sucks because is looks BAD A**

Realistically that is the body of MAF. Look at your trucks stock configuration, you have an elbow right before the MAF upstream and some corrugated piping downstream. The stock Vortec configuration does not have like a 10 and 5 or 5 and 2 or whatever like your average mag tube, turbine, coriolis or what have you. The MAF is close to 3" across and you certainly don't have 10 upstream pipe diameters, not even 1, lol. Lot's of MAF systems work fine with no tubing ( my LT1 powered B body is one of them along with the multitudes of LT1 and LS1 F bodies out there).

That said an open element on a Vortec is still impractical. Even if you could sandwich the MAF on top of the throttle body, good luck installing an air cleaner and still having the hood close.

That said I would rather have a configuration that draws cold air from outside of the truck versus something that just sucks heat soaked underhood air. To each their own though.
 
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