Grinding when shifting into reverse?

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dlundblad

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Howdy everyone. 1992 C1500 4.3 with the manual 4 speed plus OD transmission. I am assuming the NV3500 though I am not quite sure.

I've put about 250 miles on the truck since ownership. One issue I've noticed is when going into reverse I'd say 50% of the time, there's a grinding noise as if the truck was still rolling when I tried shifting. The engine is at idle, truck is stopped, and the brake and clutch are both pressed.. then grinding. Other times, it's a bit less vocal, but you can still feel it shifting into reverse like an old gear drive tractor. I assume the latter is more normal. I have not done a gear oil change yet. Just over 90k miles on the truck.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.
 

Road Trip

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Howdy everyone. 1992 C1500 4.3 with the manual 4 speed plus OD transmission. I am assuming the NV3500 though I am not quite sure.

I've put about 250 miles on the truck since ownership. One issue I've noticed is when going into reverse I'd say 50% of the time, there's a grinding noise as if the truck was still rolling when I tried shifting. The engine is at idle, truck is stopped, and the brake and clutch are both pressed.. then grinding. Other times, it's a bit less vocal, but you can still feel it shifting into reverse like an old gear drive tractor. I assume the latter is more normal. I have not done a gear oil change yet. Just over 90k miles on the truck.

Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

Greetings dlundblad,

This is a classic symptom of insufficient clutch disc release. Instead of the clutch disc coming to a
complete stop while sandwiched inbetween a spinning flywheel & pressure plate while the engine is idling,
it's still being dragged along a bit thanks to a few ft/lbs worth of rotation.

NOTE: Since all forward gears have synchronizers, this drag is stopped/covered up by the synchro action,
so you may never hear it shifting from a stop into a forward gear, *but* since there's no synchro on
reverse you end up hearing/feeling exactly what you described.

The quickest way to verify this theory is when you are having the issue occur, shut the engine off & now
see if you can shift from neutral into reverse quietly. If it's now OK, then we have to figure out where/why
we aren't translating a full clutch pedal throw into a full pressure plate release.

And of course, if a manual transmission won't shift properly with the engine off then we need to look at the
shift linkage/internals instead. So comparing engine on vs engine off behavior while shifting into reverse will
point you in the right direction.

I've attached the clutch diagnosis page from the '91 Factory Service Manual to give you an idea of the possibilities
to consider. But since your truck has a hydraulic clutch, I would first give the both the master and secondary
cylinders a careful visual inspection, and if either are leaking fluid then replace them.

If both are dry, then my next step would be to bleed the clutch hydraulic system with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and
retest. If you bleed any air out of the system and the pedal feels firmer, then there's a good chance that this
problem will disappear. (Because the pressure plate internals are now being moved just a little further away from
the flywheel, allowing those parts to spin without dragging the clutch disc along with them.)

Of course if you have full pressure plate travel but due to heat/abuse the clutch disc and/or pressure plate has
warped a bit and has thrown off the running clearances, then it's going to drag no matter what, but that's extreme
abuse that's not typically seen on a 32 year old truck with 90K miles on it.

****

So, inspect for leaks at both ends of the hydraulic circuit, and then bleed the system until all new fluid is in there.
And most of the time this will clear it up. And if you choose to replace the transmission fluid at the same time it
should feel buttery smooth once you get this sorted out.

Best of luck. And when you get this problem solved please be sure to come back here and share what you discovered.

Thanks --
 

Attachments

  • '91 clutch diagnosis (arrow) --1991_GM_CK_LIGHT_DUTY_TRUCKS_SERVICE_MANUAL_WITH_EMISSIONS_AND_...jpg
    '91 clutch diagnosis (arrow) --1991_GM_CK_LIGHT_DUTY_TRUCKS_SERVICE_MANUAL_WITH_EMISSIONS_AND_...jpg
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Schurkey

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This is a classic symptom of insufficient clutch disc release. Instead of the clutch disc coming to a complete stop while sandwiched inbetween a spinning flywheel & pressure plate while the engine is idling, it's still being dragged along a bit thanks to a few ft/lbs worth of rotation.
1984. Chevy dealership.

Woman drives her 454 tonner pickup and stock trailer into the lot. Comes up to my desk complaining about not being able to shift the manual transmission.

I go out to the truck, engine off. I fling the shifter around. Shifts just lovely into any gear. I start the engine with the clutch pushed, shifter in first gear, and--engine running, clutch pedal on the carpet--I cannot pull hard enough on the shift lever to get it out of gear. Shut the engine off, and it moves easily. Start the engine with the trans in neutral, and the shifter won't go into gear, but it does make horrible grinding noises when attempting.

Of course, the clutch disc was warped from excess heat--slipping the clutch to get the giant stock trailer loaded with cattle rolling. The warped clutch disc dragged on the flywheel and pressure plate even with the clutch pedal properly adjusted--there just wasn't enough travel in the design of the pressure plate to fully release that damaged clutch disc. Classic case of a pickup truck that didn't have deep enough rear axle gears.

The way I remember it, that clutch job got handled under partial warranty--she paid labor, GM bought the parts. But thinking about it now, we should have estimated the weight of her trailer, and compared it to the rated pulling power of the truck. I think it was massively overloaded, and warranty should have been denied.
 

dlundblad

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Greetings dlundblad,

This is a classic symptom of insufficient clutch disc release. Instead of the clutch disc coming to a
complete stop while sandwiched inbetween a spinning flywheel & pressure plate while the engine is idling,
it's still being dragged along a bit thanks to a few ft/lbs worth of rotation.

NOTE: Since all forward gears have synchronizers, this drag is stopped/covered up by the synchro action,
so you may never hear it shifting from a stop into a forward gear, *but* since there's no synchro on
reverse you end up hearing/feeling exactly what you described.

The quickest way to verify this theory is when you are having the issue occur, shut the engine off & now
see if you can shift from neutral into reverse quietly. If it's now OK, then we have to figure out where/why
we aren't translating a full clutch pedal throw into a full pressure plate release.

And of course, if a manual transmission won't shift properly with the engine off then we need to look at the
shift linkage/internals instead. So comparing engine on vs engine off behavior while shifting into reverse will
point you in the right direction.

I've attached the clutch diagnosis page from the '91 Factory Service Manual to give you an idea of the possibilities
to consider. But since your truck has a hydraulic clutch, I would first give the both the master and secondary
cylinders are careful visual inspection, and if either are leaking fluid then replace them.

If both are dry, then my next step would be to bleed the clutch hydraulic system with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and
retest. If you bleed any air out of the system and the pedal feels firmer, then there's a good chance that this
problem will disappear. (Because the pressure plate internals are now being moved just a little further away from
the flywheel, allowing those parts to spin without dragging the clutch disc along with them.)

Of course if you have full pressure plate travel but due to heat/abuse the clutch disc and/or pressure plate has
warped a bit and has thrown off the running clearances, then it's going to drag no matter what, but that's extreme
abuse that's not typically seen on a 32 year old truck with 90K miles on it.

****

So, inspect for leaks at both ends of the hydraulic circuit, and then bleed the system until all new fluid is in there.
And most of the time this will clear it up. And if you choose to replace the transmission fluid at the same time it
should feel buttery smooth once you get this sorted out.

Best of luck. And when you get this problem solved please be sure to come back here and share what you discovered.

Thanks --
Seems like the first step is to bleed everything.

In light of the stock trailer post above, the truck was used to haul a 22'-ish foot cuddy cabin. I have no idea on the weight, but I am guessing 3500-4000 lbs lbs dry. Add fuel, water, gear, and trailer and who knows. 3.42 gears. (The truck is also fitted with trailer breaks.) Perhaps there's our abuse.

Someday I hope to add limited slip so perhaps I will do 4.10's or something. I assume the diff is open.. no G80 code, but I haven't checked either.
 
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dlundblad

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It could also be a pilot bushing/bearing issue, but usually those are accompanied with noise.
A noise just started about 30 minutes ago. We came back from an evening cruise only to have it make a nasty clanking noise once we made it back to the house. Clutch in it would be quiet. Out and it would clank.
 

Erik the Awful

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Pilot bushings usually squeal or squeak. Pilot bearings usually rumble. You'll get the noise when the clutch pedal is depressed and there's supposed to be a speed differential between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft.

If it's a clutch hydraulics failure, I highly recommend replacing the clutch hydraulics and hose as a set. If one is bad the rest quickly follow, and you only want to do the job once.
 

Supercharged111

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Pilot bushings usually squeal or squeak. Pilot bearings usually rumble. You'll get the noise when the clutch pedal is depressed and there's supposed to be a speed differential between the crankshaft and the transmission input shaft.

If it's a clutch hydraulics failure, I highly recommend replacing the clutch hydraulics and hose as a set. If one is bad the rest quickly follow, and you only want to do the job once.

I've wasted a pilot bearing and bushing in my Camaro and had no noise, just harder shifting.
 

Erik the Awful

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When I was a Nissan tech, Nissan had a rash of bad pilot bushings. They'd squeal for months before they'd fully seize. YMMV
 

Road Trip

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A noise just started about 30 minutes ago. We came back from an evening cruise only to have it make a nasty clanking noise once we made it back to the house. Clutch in it would be quiet. Out and it would clank.

Sorry to hear that the problem is worsening. But thanks to you paying attention to when the
noise is stimulated vs when it disappears we can use this to narrow down where to expect to
find the failing part(s).

When troubleshooting a noise in a standard transmission we need to be able to move the 'speed differential'
around. That is, where the parts are rotating on one side while the other side is stationary.

Here's the different tests that we can run prior to opening everything up, essentially each step always moving the speed differential point rearwards.
(NOTE: This is a bit of an oversimplification, but it helps to understand the testing methodology & keeping track of where the noise is being generated.)

1) Everything stationary. Used to test basic shift linkage adjustment. (Engine off, transmission internals stationary, driveshaft/wheels stationary.)
2) Engine idling, clutch disengaged, wheels stationary. (Spinning flywheel, pressure plate, and throwout bearing, with stationary trans input shaft & internals.)
- Used to see if pilot bearing or throwout bearing become noisy in this mode. Also to check if non fully releasing clutch is causing shifting difficulties.
3) Engine idling, clutch engaged, transmission in neutral, wheels stationary. (No speed difference between pilot bearing and transmission input shaft.
- Also clutch disc at same speed sandwiched in-between flywheel and pressure plate.
- However, we have now added a spinning transmission input shaft at engine speed. IF the noise now starts up, then we need to focus on the
- stationary parts in Test #2 that are now spinning. (Think input shaft bearing {highest probability, it leads a demanding life} or internal gear meshing.)
4) Engine running, clutch engaged, transmission in gear, rear wheels rotating. (All parts spinning, sounds may vary by which gear that the engine
- torque is being coupled through.)
5) Advanced testing: Engine OFF, clutch engaged, transmission in neutral, driveshaft/rear wheels still rotating due to vehicle coasting down the road.
- Used to try to pinpoint if the noise is emanating from the input bearing/input shaft vs the output shaft/output bearing/out back.

It's actually not nearly as complicated when I demonstrate this in person versus typing it all in. The point I'm
trying to make is that by changing where suspect interacting parts are stationary to each other vs causing
relative movement between them and observing the presence or absence of noise, we can often tighten up
the probem description up to a specific area. (Example: Either the pilot bushing/bearing is noisy when the clutch
is depressed and there's a speed difference generated. Or the wounded throwout bearing spins up to speed and
starts squawking while our foot holds it against the spinning pressure plate.)

As opposed to the input shaft/bearing is noisy when the clutch is engaged, so the input shaft/bearing starts
spinning while the throwout bearing has come to a stop. (!)

For what it's worth I've included an exploded diagram of the NV3500, which is helpful to trying to visualize
which parts are rotating when in the different operating tests described above. And as a bonus I included
a photo of a NV3500 input shaft & input bearing.

Sounds like the time has come for a teardown & inspection. Of course the input bearing could be OK, but
a shifting bit has broken off, fallen into the gears, and now announces itself as a foreign object any time
the internal gears start spinning, for this seems to be identified here and there on the few NV3500 threads
that don't dead end before the root cause is shared.

For what it's worth --
 

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  • Chevy Getrag HM290 - NV3500 Bad input bearing dissy (arrows) .jpg
    Chevy Getrag HM290 - NV3500 Bad input bearing dissy (arrows) .jpg
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