'98 Vortec into a '88 K2500, retaining the TBI

[Firewood truck]

Im glad you found the problem your clutch. Have you considered changing your hydro line braided SS?

When I changed my Auto to a Tremec TKX, it came with all SS lines. I dont know if there is a reason or if its just for esthetics.

I'm trying to hunt down some Russell fittings that replace the OE 'roll pin' fittings in the MC and slave cylinder and adapts them to -3AN. I can make a -3 line pretty easily. I'm thinking about routing the new line around the front of the engine ( frame rail, core support, frame rail then up to the MC)

 

[Firewood truck]

Here's a pic of the melted plastic portion of the hydo clutch line. stupid plastic lines that GM ran right over and next to the exhaust manifolds and EGR feeder tube.

After striking out at a local-ish hot rod shop that thought he had the roll pin to -3 fittings, I decided to re-use the components from the '88 SM465 setup. Everything was new from last year, I just had managed to kink/break the hydro line at the slave cylinder. No problem, I got a 12" piece of M6 brake line and a union fitting, re-flared the hardline and re-bent the hard lines so that I could route them as far away from the exhaust manifold as possible on the passenger side. I read a few threads about the older style hydraulics not working with the NV4500- I don't know why people seem to think that, they worked fine for me tonight. After comparing specs of the master and slave cylinders, the masters both have a 19mm bore, the bore of the slave for the '88 is .060 ( 1/16th-ish of an inch) larger then the one on the 1 piece sealed unit. I may have lost a TINY bit of pressure from that, but I honestly couldn't tell any difference. The release point was about mid travel of the clutch pedal, same as the "correct" hydro system. I will just keep this setup unless something terrible happens.

My $6 repair solution instead of shelling out $80 for a new line.

Everything seemed to shift ok, no melted hydro lines tonight. After driving the SM465 for so long, it feels a bit weird shifting into 5th gear. I have 3.73's in the axles, so it will be interesting to see where the RPMs at 60 mph once I get the needle gauge swapped into the dash. I'm not a fan of the moonie gauges.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

You will be at about 2000 RPM at 70MPH depending on your tire height.

 

[Firewood truck]

Minor update- I had to trace down another electrical gremlin- the T-case indicator lights on the floor console just stopped working a few days ago. After tracing the brown +12V feeder and finding it dead at the convenience center, I had missed the 25A AC/HTR fuse until I read the schematics and saw HOW that entire circuit gets power. A new fuse and everything was working again.

I packed some Toyota FIPG into the lower lip of the oil pan/ timing cover in hopes of slowing down the damn leak until I can get the pan replaced. I found a local shop that will do the job for $500.. as much as I don't have the budget for that, I really can't wrestle out the front diff again by myself. I damn near crushed myself with that last year when I replaced the original blown up one.

 

[Firewood truck]

I've put a few miles on the truck over the past week. My timing cover leak got slowed down to a small dribble, so I still need to fix that but at least I can drive the truck a bit. It's a bit "cold natured", it will stumble a bit until it gets warmed up, then it starts running pretty good. I get the deep throaty "V8" noise when I floor it. It pulls pretty good through the RPMs ( no tach so I have no idea how many RPMs I'm getting, lol). I'm running the V6 air cleaner for right now, I'm looking at a few options for the AC suction pipes/manifold so that I can put the 12" air cleaner back on.

I have been trying read about the AIC re-learn procedure as well as a TPS re-learn ( if there is such a thing) as well as a few TBI tuning threads, which I may visit in the near future. Right now I just need the truck running reliably enough to get some work done around the house. There's a C10 truck show coming up in 2 weeks ( all GM trucks are welcome) so I want to take it there and hang out with the other beaters!

I will keep posting any fixes along the way or any big changes that I have to make. I appreciate the members that chimed in and lent me their great advice. I hope that I've documented my swap well enough that it may be useful to someone else that does this swap. I'm glad that I went with the L31 long block and Vortec accessory drive, I think that it will make it easier to find replacement parts in the future and the layout seems cleaner then the TBI layout.

Today I was relieving the TBI of it's oil pan, I pulled the plugs and was surprised to see that the only fouled plug was on #5 cylinder, it was coated in oil. The other 7 looked really good. I have the long block up for sale on FBMP locally for cheap, I haven't had a single enquire. I will wait until Saturday then it gets towed off to the scrap yard where I'll get a few $$ for it and a bunch of other scrap that needs to gone from my shed.

 

[Firewood truck]

I saw another possibility for a factory AC suction manifold, I went to the pick and pull and got one for testing today.

Here's the issue, which I think should be solvable since this compressor is used on so many different models of GM vehicles.

I think that there are different thickness sealing washers that take up that gap?

This hose assembly came off of a '02 S10 Blazer. I like this routing much better and it would allow me to put the 12" air cleaner back on. I'd just need to splice the OE ends onto the hoses.

 

[Keeper]

There's a C10 truck show coming up in 2 weeks ( all GM trucks are welcome) so I want to take it there and hang out with the other beaters!

Do tell... where is this show a happenin'?

 

[Firewood truck]

Do tell... where is this show a happenin'?

from pegs to pistons....

www.c10playdate.com

I have no idea what it's like, never been there. A buddy of mine told me about it. He just finished up a square body 2wd big block suburban with a NV4500 swap.

 

[Firewood truck]

Time for an update.. the local NAPA absolutely f-d up trying to splice the AC lines together, I couldn't even draw 15 in of vac. I wrapped the splice joint with Saran Wrap, I watched the plastic wrap get pulled into the joint THEN it started pulling good vacuum. They don't know what else to do and aren't offering a refund yet. The truck itself runs, but it stumbles a lot when it's cold, especially at off idle thru mid throttle. It's a bit better when it's warm, but it still isn't 100% "smooth". I reached out to Harris Tuning, he suggests the Vortec fuel pump, 18 PSI regulator spring and a custom chip to make it run right. I'm not second guessing what Brian has shared with me through E-mails, I just wasn't expecting to have to spend another $500+ on this thing just to get it running good. What has been other peoples experiences with this setup in regards to having it run good?