(continuation from reply #
16)
OK. In the previous reply we looped on error until the starter cranks the engine over
every single time we jumpered power from Pin 30 to Pin 87. By doing so, we've proven the
battery + high current paths + starter/starter solenoid are 'known good'.
But so that we don't have to pop the hood and jumper these pins every time we want to
start the vehicle, let's take a closer look at the Control side of the Cranking circuit.
****
First things first. IF you have 100% positive control over your starter using the manual jumper
method, but after plugging in the relay we're back to flaky behavior, it only takes seconds to prove/disprove
that the relay itself is at fault. The reason why is that all 3 relays on the engine side of the Underhood fuse block
are the same part number. The 1st one controls the starter, the 2nd one is for the A/C compressor, and the 3rd one
is for the fuel pump. If you have A/C, then I'd swap that relay into the cranking circuit and see if the problem remains
or is it now cured? (And if it doesn't change the behavior, go ahead and return the relays to their original positions.)
And while you are in the area, make sure that after the physical jolts from a million potholes that the connections between
the relay socket and the relay itself are still snug, not sloppy.
At this point, IF you've proven to yourself that the starter + starter solenoid + starter relay + starter relay socket are
all solid performers and yet we still have a control issue when the driver is behind the steering wheel, then we have no
choice but to dive into the cranking Control circuit below:
(Note: This is the same FSM page as in the previous reply, but this time marked up on the Control side.)
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It can look a little confusing at first, but just keep in mind that all this stuff is in series, so any one
function can open the path, and not allowing current to flow through the control coil. And as we
know from Relay Theory 101, when current flows through the Control coil it will magnetically s*ck
the switch from the Normally Open to the closed position, thereby sending power down to the
known-good starter, and cranking commences.
So, the sequence of events on the Control side is as follows:
1) The Control side of the cranking circuit starts at the same exact place as the Power side: 40A Fuse 6. (IGN A)
But *this* RED wire goes to pin D5 of Connector C266 for the Ignition Switch. And this wire is Hot Always.
(Good to keep in mind when troubleshooting.)
2) Human being puts key in Ignition and turns it all the way to the START position. This connects our Always On
power to the YEL (yellow) wire, connected to D1 of C266. Starting the truck 3x per day = 1000+ cycles per year x
the number of years the Ignition Switch has been in operation. Give or take, there can be a *lot* of cycles on that
switch? But for now, let's assume the switch is good and proceed down the circuit.
3) The Yellow wire from the Ignition Switch becomes the input to the CRANK fuse, which is in the (I/P) instrument panel
fuse block. (A bit of a misnomer, for I would have named this the "Crank Control Circuit" fuse...but they didn't ask me. :0)
Just know as a troubleshooter that it's possible to blow the 40A IGN A fuse, and
everything goes dead in the cranking circuit.
It's also possible to have a unblown IGN A fuse, but at the same time the 10A CRANK fuse *is* blown. It just depends upon
where the circuit fault occurred.
4) The output of the CRANK fuse is now a PPL (purple) wire which will be fed into whatever safety switch is in your truck.
If equipped with an automatic, then the purple wire is the input to the TR (Transmission Range) switch in the FSM. (In the
garage, other mechanics may give you a blank stare unless you say 'Neutral Safety' switch.)
On the other hand, the stickshift vehicles will have this purple wire as an input to the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) switch.
These physical switches will also accrue a *lot* of cycles over the years. So if you have flaky peek-a-boo behavior,
temporarily
jumpering around the switch for troubleshooting purposes may help you decide whether the switch is still good, or is flaky and
requires replacement. But don't set yourself up for heartbreak by
ever leaving that troubleshooting jumper in place. (!)
5) Exiting the safety switch, the wire is now marked PPL/WHT. And this wire will be the one that goes to Pin 86 of the
Starter Relay. And since we've already proven the Power side of the circuit as well as verified the Starter Relay itself,
IF you have 12v power on your purple/white wire connected to Pin 86 (by turning the Ignition key to START) then the
truck has no choice but to start. (!)
****
So if you are still reading this, you now know more about the '96+ GMT400 starting circuit than most sentient beings on
the planet. Note that the Control side is the same as the Power side in that there is no circuit breaker involved.
Given the above, only behavior I expect from this circuit is:
1) Turn Key to Start = Works.
2) Turn Key to Start = 40A Fuse IGN A
blows in Underhood Fuse block. Bad component or wiring harness chafe to ground.
3) Turn Key to Start = 10A Fuse CRANK
blows in Instrument Panel block. Bad component or wiring harness chafe to ground.
4) Turn Key to Start = Nothing happens due to failed (open) connection in wiring harness somewhere in this path.
5) Turn Key to Start = Nothing happens due to installed Safety Switch not in correct position (good switch) or is in correct position yet still open. (Bad switch)
6) Turn Key to Start = Nothing happens due to worn contacts within Ignition Switch causing open circuit.
EDIT: Of course I didn't document that feeding +12V to the starter, but there's no solid ground for that current to return
back to the battery will = no joy. But we all know that. Especially after an engine swap. Good grounds are good housekeeping. :0)
That's pretty much it. So if the
entire vehicle loses power after attempting to crank the engine over, I cannot explain that
via this circuit. However, practical experience has shown me that if I have a marginal connection on the high current side
of the starter (Look for the '32' {metric} sized wires in the wiring diagram) ...when I suddenly try to pull the 150-200 amps at
the starter I can have this darken the entire truck. And sometimes this will come back on it's own. (cooling maybe?) And other
times all it takes it to twist the offending marginal connection by hand, and the entire truck springs right back to life?
****
All of the above is simply shared as food for thought. But my goal for sharing all this is for you to be able to troubleshoot
to the root cause in as few moves as possible. And more importantly, once you fix this you will understand exactly why it
failed in the first place. (Personally, I've fixed stuff never knowing exactly what the solution was, and I get no satisfaction
from that. You know, the all night thrash 'cuz you gotta drive it to work the next morning, and suddenly it starts working?
Is it going to *stay* working, or strand me at work? WTF? :-(
But at the same time I like do enjoy a 'premeditated fix', where I narrow the problem down by reasoning to 'It has to be this"
...and it is. (!)
****
Happy Hunting! And please be sure to let us know what you discover, for the benefit of others also fighting the good fight
to keep those old brutes on the road & earning their keep.
Cheers --