88 c1500 gmc lowering questions

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Unactive1

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Hello all, new here. I inherited a 88 gmc c1500 sle reg. Cab short bed recently. Has reg bed not a stepside. Planning on doing a leaf flip. Tow package removed and no spare tire it sits at 34 3/4 inches to rear fender. Question1 how much higher will it raise after bumper is removed and roll pan installed. Has chrome diamond plated top style bumper, not sure if its original. I know it drops 6". Measured for the flip and axle to frame would be less than 3" dont want to c notch if possible. Has 235/75 r15 wheels and tires. Worried the flip would bring fender too close to this size tire. Any help would be awesome.
 

Drunkcanuk

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As Richard said , if you want to flip the axle, you have to do a notch. If not, you are going to hate the ride more than you could imagine.

What's with the hate for a C-notch, it's the way that it's been done for over 30yrs. I just did mine, not that big of a deal.

You MAY gain a 1/4" removing the bumper and going with a roll pan.

You are not going to have any problems with the tire hitting the fender in the back, up front maybe, depending on how you chose to lower it. Some spindles push the wheel mount a bit. But if you chose wheel correctly, it's a non issue.
 

Unactive1

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As Richard said , if you want to flip the axle, you have to do a notch. If not, you are going to hate the ride more than you could imagine.

What's with the hate for a C-notch, it's the way that it's been done for over 30yrs. I just did mine, not that big of a deal.

You MAY gain a 1/4" removing the bumper and going with a roll pan.

You are not going to have any problems with the tire hitting the fender in the back, up front maybe, depending on how you chose to lower it. Some spindles push the wheel mount a bit. But if you chose wheel correctly, it's a non issue.
Was planning on a 2" in front with spindles and 6" rear. Guess i will be getting my brother to help with the notching here down the road. Will oem style shocks still be ok to run with this setup? The wheels i didnt choose. They've been on the truck as long as i can remember. Was my grand fathers truck. I would rather have 17" wheels tbh but runnin what i got. Thank ya'll for the assistance. Like to have homework done so the job goes smoother and learn do's and don'ts so im not wasting money.
 

Drunkcanuk

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Was planning on a 2" in front with spindles and 6" rear. Guess i will be getting my brother to help with the notching here down the road. Will oem style shocks still be ok to run with this setup? The wheels i didnt choose. They've been on the truck as long as i can remember. Was my grand fathers truck. I would rather have 17" wheels tbh but runnin what i got. Thank ya'll for the assistance. Like to have homework done so the job goes smoother and learn do's and don'ts so im not wasting money.
If you only go 2" in the front and 6" in the rear, you are going to be running down the road looking like a dog dragging it's ass across the carpet! But you do you! Lol

Traditional lowering kits are as follows.
0-2"
2"-4"
4"-6
5'-7"
Front-rear

OEM shocks will most likely be too long depending on how low you go. Definitely if you do 6" in the rear.
If you run 15" wheels with dropped spindles, you will have to cut away part of the lower control arms for clearance. Don't worry, it's a normal thing and nobody that I'm aware of has reported any failures from it.


There is the link to my build with a Belltech 4/6 kit (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) it goes into my journey of lessons learned and what I went through to do it.

We have a LOT of smart people on here willing to help, but sometimes we can't help someone from themselves....if that makes sense.
 

Unactive1

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If you only go 2" in the front and 6" in the rear, you are going to be running down the road looking like a dog dragging it's ass across the carpet! But you do you! Lol

Traditional lowering kits are as follows.
0-2"
2"-4"
4"-6
5'-7"
Front-rear

OEM shocks will most likely be too long depending on how low you go. Definitely if you do 6" in the rear.
If you run 15" wheels with dropped spindles, you will have to cut away part of the lower control arms for clearance. Don't worry, it's a normal thing and nobody that I'm aware of has reported any failures from it.


There is the link to my build with a Belltech 4/6 kit (HIGHLY RECOMMEND) it goes into my journey of lessons learned and what I went through to do it.

We have a LOT of smart people on here willing to help, but sometimes we can't help someone from themselves....if that makes sense.
Thanks for heads up. I DO Not want it lookin like Fido running the ass wipe 400. Will look into the belltech kit for sure.
 

Unactive1

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Thanks for heads up. I DO Not want it lookin like Fido running the ass wipe 400. Will look into the belltech kit for sure.
Would these wheels be better to run in the end? They're 17x8 with 245/45 tires
 

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Drunkcanuk

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Would these wheels be better to run in the end? They're 17x8 with 245/45 tires
It would depending on a few things.
Right bolt pattern? Should be 5x5
Right load rating for a 4000+lb truck?
Backspacing and offset if any.
I run 17x8's, with 235/65/17's. 4.8" of BS.

If that car is near you, pop a wheel off and try it on your truck. Take some measurements and see how much if any it sticks out of the fender, or interfering with suspension parts.
 

someotherguy

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The wheels on that car are gonna be 5x4.75 bolt pattern, won't fit.

But it looks like you're starting to get the hang of the topic, so that's great!

If you're still set on doing the flip kit out back for the 6" drop, a 4" front drop is the usual setup - it looks and works well even during daily driving and still possible to use the truck for basic truck stuff.

As mentioned you'll need different shocks as the stockers will be too long. A full kit will include appropriately sized and valved shocks for the drop. Rear shock extender brackets may also be included with good kits to help correct the angle, as dropping the rear puts them at an extreme angle which makes them less effective.

Richard
 
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