3/4 Ton of fun - ‘95 Sierra

[fancyTBI]

Well I fought with the lower control arm shock mount hardware tonight and cleaned the frame with some Gunk degreaser. That stuff works pretty good.

Results of my efforts:

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Never had an M8 fight me that bad. But it’s out! I will tap the threads to clean them up some. I also found a great method to burn out bushings. Just heat the outer shell and the rubber boils on the inside. Once that’s done just push it out. I was previously just heating the rubber like a dummy. So these next bushings on the other side should go a lot smoother!

 

[Orpedcrow]

Man you’re moving right along!

I realize now that I could have just done spindles and springs and been time/money ahead. But I really feel like these bushings and TTX parts will be worth it.

Yessir, I believe you’ll be happy you did it, even if just for the experience

Hood Hinges 88-98 Chevy C/K Truck

www.eddiemotorsports.com

 

[fancyTBI]

Man you’re moving right along!


Yessir, I believe you’ll be happy you did it, even if just for the experience

Hood Hinges 88-98 Chevy C/K Truck

www.eddiemotorsports.com

Experience is always good. I know I’ll be doing this on the ‘94 some year soon. Those hood hinges are dope! But mine work so good. I should post a video of the hood on the ‘94. They operate so smoothly. You could close it with a finger.

 

[fancyTBI]

Guys, I did not take note of my Z height while removing the control arms. Did I mess this up? Or is this something that I should not worry about as the alignment should solve it? I haven’t done anything to the passenger side yet, but it probably will be off some once it’s lowered on the drivers side.

Should I be concerned or is there anything I can do?

 

[fancyTBI]

I suppose I could get everything snug, jack up the front suspension to simulate a load on it, then get the proper Z height and then torque the upper and lower control arms down.

 

[Orpedcrow]

I suppose I could get everything snug, jack up the front suspension to simulate a load on it, then get the proper Z height and then torque the upper and lower control arms down.

That’s how you’re supposed to do it. Ball joints can be tightened, but control arm bushings need to be positioned under normal load when torquing. Like you described, truck in Jack stands, Jack under control arm till the spring stops compressing then torque bushings.

 

[fancyTBI]

That’s how you’re supposed to do it. Ball joints can be tightened, but control arm bushings need to be positioned under normal load when torquing. Like you described, truck in Jack stands, Jack under control arm till the spring stops compressing then torque bushings.

Thanks. If I had thought on it for 20 extra minutes I wouldn’t have even needed to ask. But still learning as I go here.

I figure I should shoot for the 89-101mm spec. A level and a ruler should get me close.

 

[fancyTBI]

Bad news. I bent the ears on the drivers lower control arm trying to press in the new sleeves. I’m calling it quits for the night. Ordering two new Mevotech loaded control arms. Will burn out the bushings and install the new poly. Earliest I’ll get the arms is next Monday. I won’t throw this one out.

F-ing moron.

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[fancyTBI]

Rock Auto says they’ll be here Friday. I’ll take comparison photos to the Mevotech and OEM. They had AC Delco for $167 and $180. I just didn’t feel like spending another $150.

 

[fancyTBI]

I did get the front painted!

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