Removing Press Fit Wrist Pin

Turbo360 · Aug 8, 2024

Sean Buick 76 said:
Are you using a new crank or did you have it machined after spinning the bearing?

Yes, a new crank and matching bearings.

NickTransmissions · Aug 8, 2024

Turbo360 said:
Yes, a new crank and matching bearings.

If you're doing that, spend the tiny amt of money and wait a few days to have it done right vs going at it with the wrong tools, fubaring it.

Its your engine, do what you want but if it were me (and didnt already have all the requisite tooling) id have the machine shop take care of it.

GoToGuy · Aug 9, 2024

It's amazing how some people got no time to do it right. Yet they always find the time to do it a second time.

Pinger · Aug 9, 2024

Turbo360 said:
but the bigger problem is that I already have the crank and cam in with assembly lube so I'm on the clock to finish assembly and get it started while the lube is still able to do it's job on initial startup.

Admittedly I've never used specific assembly lube, but I can't imagine it will all have gone by the time you need it and, there's always priming the galleries prior to start-up. In short, I wouldn't let that slight (IMO) concern dictate the build timeframe.

GoToGuy · Aug 9, 2024

So you use assembly goo, good thing. If your concerned about dry , get a pump spin tool shove it down the distributor hole pump oil through whole engine . Stab distributer back in crank it up, you'll have instant oil pressure. Everything is pre lubed , no voids.

Turbo360 · Aug 10, 2024

rebelyell said:
Are you isolated between the bitterroot & the frank church? There is no magic trick here
No matter what: with your hat in hand & head bowed, go back to the shopowner and beg forgiveness for whatever he thinks ya did ... please sir, I promise on old yellers soul etc etc etc ........... either that or load up and spend more money & time up the road. The job takes a pro well under 1/2 hour.

Not everybody has $10k to throw at a 29 year old street engine making 165HP, so please forgive me for trying to save a dollar this one time. Contrary to what you might be inclined to think judging by your aggressive tone, I have tried to do my best in rebuilding this engine the right way with a new crank and even a new camshaft (because the old cam was slightly scored, maybe could have gotten away with it since it's a hydraulic roller, but just went new to be safe)

In any case, I went ahead and took the piston to a machine shop. Trying not to add too much time to this build, I found another shop farther away that said they could do it in 1-2 days but they felt there would be a good chance that the piston would break. We agreed to proceed anyway and they managed to get the pin out the next day, though the pin didn't survive, the piston did so a new wrist pin was installed.

$40 and + 2h 40m of round trips later I finally have a piston and rod assembly that I can use to continue assembly.

Thanks for the input everyone.

rebelyell · Aug 10, 2024

Turbo360 said:
Not everybody has $10k to throw at a 29 year old street engine making 165HP, so please forgive me for trying to save a dollar this one time. Contrary to what you might be inclined to think judging by your aggressive tone, I have tried to do my best in rebuilding this engine the right way with a new crank and even a new camshaft (because the old cam was slightly scored, maybe could have gotten away with it since it's a hydraulic roller, but just went new to be safe)

In any case, I went ahead and took the piston to a machine shop. Trying not to add too much time to this build, I found another shop farther away that said they could do it in 1-2 days but they felt there would be a good chance that the piston would break. We agreed to proceed anyway and they managed to get the pin out the next day, though the pin didn't survive, the piston did so a new wrist pin was installed.

$40 and + 2h 40m of round trips later I finally have a piston and rod assembly that I can use to continue assembly.

Thanks for the input everyone.

Sir, perhaps you're over-sensitive here. As for myself, I am simply stating facts that, uncomfortable or not, are intended to steer you away from making a poor decision and a problem-prone assembly. I wasn't there to observe any of this, but based on your description ... I'd be very leary of using any piston, whose pin was wrecked upon removal. Good luck with your project.

Schurkey · Aug 11, 2024

I suppose there's half-a-dozen ways to wreck a wrist-pin. I have to assume that the machine shop inspected the piston before replacing the wrist pin and re-using it.

But...yeah...it is suspicious.

GoToGuy · Aug 11, 2024

Normal working people don't want to waste dollars. On the other hand if you decide to do your own rebuild there are costs involved. And certain tasks have to be done certain way for any chance of success. Nobody wants to burn you at the stake , but we would like to save you any grief later on.
Wanna see what happens when you forget to recheck the connecting rod bolts on no 3 and you miss a shift and it hits 6700 rpm. I have the connecting rod pretzel paper weight.

Turbo360 · Aug 11, 2024

rebelyell said:
I'd be very leary of using any piston, whose pin was wrecked upon removal.

Well, it wasn't completely destroyed, it just had 3-4 score marks on it. I trust they made sure the pin bore in the piston wasn't going to cause problems later. The new wrist pin moves beautifully, but I suppose I'll have to wait and see how it runs.

Removing Press Fit Wrist Pin

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