Blown Head Gasket repair cost?

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Road Trip

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Maybe someone could correct me if I’m wrong but a blown head gasket stays blown and I’d have the over heat issue regularly… this overheat issue popped up twice a week apart. Could be a small leak I guess? But I’ll start with the basics that require less of my attention and time before tearing into the top end in a few weeks when I have more time.

Sir,

You will find your real answer by quantifying exactly how much coolant your engine is either leaking and/or
consuming.

IF the amount is zero coolant loss over time, then you can leave the engine as-is and instead focus on
why you are occasionally generating more BTUs with your engine than your fan/clutch/radiator combo can
get rid of. For what it's worth, I've attached a hand-drawn chart showing an 'intermittent' failure from
excess heat. (Note: I originally drew it for an electronic issue, but if in your mind you substitute weakened
clutch, or scaled up radiator internals, etc., for why the system can dispose of less BTUs then when it came
off of the assembly line then you will catch my drift.)

****

On the other hand, IF you are losing/consuming coolant, then the only answer is to locate the root cause
and fix that. But if you haven't already done so, make sure your overflow tank has a good hose connecting
it to the radiator, make sure it's clean enough to see the coolant level, and then put a Sharpie mark right
at the Cold Fill level, and pay close attention to where it returns after it cools overnight for several days in
a row so that you can quantify how much coolant is disappearing, if any.

Here's hoping you are not using any coolant, and all you have to do is hot-rod your cooling system like
what our Texans are doing. (L31MaxExpress & others.)

Let us know what you discover. Best of luck!
 

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tinfoil_hat

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I had some work done by a very reputable shop and the owner took care of me personally because he owns one of these trucks. Everything about the experience was steller. Later that year when I wasn't getting heat I went to swap the thermostat and it was installed upside down. Two morals to this story... Even the best mechanics can make simple mistakes and always check the simple (cheap) things before throwing money at the problem.

All that said, I am no expert on shop prices but that sounds like a lot of cabbage. I would be looking at a reman long block if I were going to throw that much money at one of these old trucks.
 

Grandpa_truck

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Update: 3rd time overheating and drive the truck to work this morning with no issues, (didn’t have AC on) drive home AC on, and everything was fine, temp gauge is working and I can watch the temp come up to 210ish, and drop when tstat opens. Pulled into driveway and shut the truck off, and coolant started bubbling and boiling. Very odd that everything is fine when truck is running, but get hot as soon as I shut it off. I even went back in the truck and turned key on and can see the temp gauge was high. Any ideas?
 

Scooterwrench

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Temps will rise after shutting the engine off. The internal surfaces of the engine are hot but the the water is not circulating through the radiator so temps rise. If you re-start the engine you should see the temp drop back down again. If you're seeing fluctuations in temp while going down the road that T-stat is sticking. Stant used to be a good name in T-stats,not sure now. The one I'm running in my truck is a NAPA premium series. Not sure who makes it but it seems to work fine.
No coolant loss? No bubbles when sitting there idling with the cap off?
 

phantom 309

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Go and buy a new rad cap,.....
report back

The sure way to check for a head gasket compression into cooling system leak,.
remove the belt so the water pump cant turn,. remove the thermostat
make sure the water level is right up
Then start the engine,. you will see bubbles from whichever side is compromised,.
 

Grandpa_truck

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For the love of god! I just got back from the auto parts store for a new rad cap. Didn’t even get a chance to read your reply/suggestion before the possibility of a bad rad cap occurred to me. I knew it sounded more like gurgling than boiling! 30 mile round trip to the nearest auto parts for new rad and overflow tank caps and not a single hiccup or gurgle when I got home! I’m happy but a bit ticked off that a repair shop wanted to do a $3000 Head gasket job.
Post note* did a block pressure test with the blue liquid and checked out good as well as no bubbles in rad. Thanks for all your help fellas, I’m in a bit of twist with this storm coming and a farm in jeopardy. Really appreciate y’all god bless
 

scott2093

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May your overflow tank always return to the same exact spot overnight.
Mine never moves past the cold line..Used to before swapping thermostat,radiator cap and water pump.....
Was under the assumption this means my system is operating normally?
Just sits around @)@* or lower usually....Unless I'm stuck in idle like I was at landfill for 30 minutes...climbed to 225* before I got moving...
 

Grandpa_truck

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Temps will rise after shutting the engine off. The internal surfaces of the engine are hot but the the water is not circulating through the radiator so temps rise. If you re-start the engine you should see the temp drop back down again. If you're seeing fluctuations in temp while going down the road that T-stat is sticking. Stant used to be a good name in T-stats,not sure now. The one I'm running in my truck is a NAPA premium series. Not sure who makes it but it seems to work fine.
No coolant loss? No bubbles when sitting there idling with the cap off?
Scooter, what temp Tstat are you running in your truck? I’ve been told that 180 is what’s recommended. But if you have proof positive otherwise, I’ll give it a try
 
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