Electrical Starter Question
- Thread starter 1990fredi
- Start date
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Lipstickonapig
Newbie
Ok I fixed it finally. Not quitting my day job...
Lipstickonapig
Newbie
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Lipstickonapig
Newbie
Yellow has 12v. What's it for.
Lipstickonapig
Newbie
Not really fixed just hot wired the solenoid and drive it. Ran like a beast, gauges all good.
12v on dash with new battery.
Drove a few miles, engine cut out.
All fuses except 5a crank have power. Crank had none when key pushed fwd for "ignition." All fuses test 0 ohms, closed circuit. Tried new fuses for battery and ignition anyways, no dice.
Old ignition switch replaced because why not. Both red wires 255 and 256 were hot. Yellow hot when key pushed to ignition yet no click, no crank.
No power to clutch safety switch
All fusible links at junction box showed 12v hot at end term to box, and hot below that on actual link, and hot below that on wire that precedes link.
Can't remember if hangy-downy, no-home yellow&purple free wire in the cab near fuse box was hot or not with ignition, I want to say not hot. It is too short to reach fuse box and the harness does not match the only open terminal it might fit.
Still no click, no start. Solenoid does show 12v with light tester when key push fwd for ignition.
New starter. New battery. New clutch switch. New ignition switch.
Rod from Ignition cylinder is hooked up and functioning. (Manually trying to start truck bypassing ignition cylinder didn't work either.)
Additional back story and sequence of events: first time this wouldn't start (no click) I then finagled the tilt steering wheel I think, pushed the clutch in and then she ran. (Had it in neutral before I finagled the wheel and it didn't click.) I had just gotten done flushing coolant, installed new thermostat, cleaned ground contacts and stud that sits by thermostat. Few days later, drove truck 25 miles no problem. Next day drove 2 miles, came home to park while running, pushed park brake and that broke so I shut her off, mins later started her up to move it and shut her down. Made a trip to inspect park brake cable and front brake lever in cab. Few days later no click, no start.
PLAN:
1. Back track yellow from ignition switch to understand where that comes from.
2. Find what is connected to "crank" fuse slot.
3. Pop distributor cap look for corrosion because I should regardless on this old pig.
4. Understand how distributor Is wired hot and if that cut out and shut me down when driving. (Never happened before.)
5. Whatever I forgot or get told to do.
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Last edited:
Lipstickonapig
Newbie
Purple is hot
Could be ignition or fuel related,did it crank back up?
That fuse only has power on it when the ignition switch(key)is in the start position,should have power on both sides of the fuse.
Again,only in start position.
Check the yellow wire with the ign. switch in start position. That could be your clutch switch connector.
Your ignition switch has five positions,
Acc.
Off wheel locked.
Off wheel unlocked.
Ign. On.
Start.
Make sure you have the ign. switch adjusted so that is it in the Off wheel locked when the lock cylinder is in the position where you can take the key out and steering wheel is locked. If you manually move the slide in the ign. switch you will feel the detents for the first four positions and a spring for start. Put the slider in the second detent from the top,towards the wheel. That is the Off wheel locked position then install the switch and tighten the screws. If you don't adjust it you may not have a closed circuit in the start position.
Your switch may have been misadjusted or you may have enough slop in the tilt pivots that it's throwing the adjustment off.
That could also be caused by misadjustment of the ignition switch.
Lipstickonapig
Newbie
When shorting yellow and purple hangy downy pig tail she runs. No idea where this goes.
Lipstickonapig
Newbie
Okay all - there is actually TWO CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCHES. What I thought was the part in question had two tiny little brownish wires and mounted on the top side of clutch pedal for the front of the pedal to hit. The actual clutch safety switch in my truck was nowhere to be found. I found a mysterious half of the clutch safety switch and the casing was never in there. The previous owner must have torn it apart and never secured the wiring harness in there -he couldn't have because there was only half of the switch.
We finally figured out what I'm calling "the cruise control switch" had to be disengaged and the actual lower clutch safety switch with purple and yellow wires has to be depressed for the vehicle to turn over. This allows purple wire to be hot which then feeds the crank circuit and she runs.
Jeepers.
We finally figured out what I'm calling "the cruise control switch" had to be disengaged and the actual lower clutch safety switch with purple and yellow wires has to be depressed for the vehicle to turn over. This allows purple wire to be hot which then feeds the crank circuit and she runs.
Jeepers.
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Clutch switch is not something you have to have,you can just leave the jumper in that connector. I'm not sure when clutch switches began,maybe early 80's. Just remember that it will crank in gear without mashing the clutch pedal if you bypass the switch.
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