Perhaps a moderator will move this thread from ENGINES to Stock Suspensions + Bolt On Kits.
Properly jacking up truck for shock replacements...
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L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
I have a low profile 3.5 ton floor jack and a pair of 5 ton stands. I like the 5 ton stands because they have 2x the footprint of a normal stand and they do not even have to be raised off the lowest height setting most of the time to have a good amount of height. I jack them up under the crossmember. Most GM trucks you need the offset slightly to the passenger side to get an even lift. Use the crankshaft pulley as a centerline guide. I set up the stands right behind the front suspension where the frame narrows enough for the frame to sit solidly in the fork of the stands. This was my 87 G20, but the idea is the same. Go behind where the frame is too wide to sit solidly in the fork of the stands. If possible I also leave the floor jack somewhat pumped up against the crossmember when I am under a vehicle. 3 points of support beat none. I make contact with the crossmember and give it about 1/2 pump.
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someotherguy
Even more awesome in person
Hipster
I'm Awesome
Idk, a vehicle sitting on fully extended jack stands can be a bit wobbly when under there yanking on stuff. A piece of wood on the jackstand saddle can make things a bit slippery. This is a recipe for disaster.
I have three different size jackstands in my shop, and I really only like using the big jackstands on the truck.
Thank you for the pictures, thats exactly what I needed. Do you have pictures of the jack stands on their "final" holding position? I was going to get a pair of these, but not sure the height will work.
Heavy Duty 6 Ton Jack Stands Pair - Double Locking Pins - Handle Lock and Mobility Pin for Auto Repair Shop with Extra Safety (JZ060)
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and a bottle jack adapter like thisAttachments
Yup, I spend yesterday morning going around with a wire wheel hitting a lot of rust off bolts and spraying with penetrating oil.
someotherguy
Even more awesome in person
Right, but these particular bolts you'll want to hit the top side, because they go up through the lower control arm from the bottom. The exposed threads at the top are what get rusty and don't want to come out. You'll have to peek through where the coil spring lands in the lower control arm and spot the threads, and give them a soaking.
Maybe not the best example pic but you should be able to get the idea - here's with the spindle out of the way and coil spring popped out of its pocket; you can see the hole in the LCA that the shock goes through, and the two square nuts welded to the inside of the LCA for the shock bolts.
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Richard
L31MaxExpress
I'm Awesome
I had more of a problem on the upper shock stud nuts on both the Tahoe and Express van. Ended up having to put a jack under the lower control arm, remove the upper control arm and use a nut splitter on both sides of the van. Actually ended up being a good thing because the upper ball joints were wasted.
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