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I know this may sound dumb, but did the overide button get pushed in perhaps? It may be stuck in the overide position despite appearing to be in the non overide position. Cycle the button a few times and it may free up and start working again. The overide button is under the headlamp switch. I only know they can stick because my 97 van has a tendency to. The button will lack resistance until the internal switch mechanism pops free.
I wish, the door and under-dash lights work like normal, just the overhead ones aren't working. Pretty sure it's the ground/white wire as they work when the button is manually pressed for the read/map lights. Trying to find the splice where all the interior lights splice together (pretty sure it's either in the driver kick panel or that general area)
Lots of reading, specifically several reports of 3-4° temp drops at the center vent. Doesn't hurt that pressures are lower, so less wear and tear and that it's cheaper.
I have actually seen more reduction than that in several vehicles. 3-4°F would be on the low side from what I have observed. The higher the ambient temperature and humidity the bigger the difference. I have seen as much as a 75 psi reduction in high side pressure.
All the more reason to convert
The system also holds about 40-60% less R152a by weight depending on whether you are starting from R12 or R134a charge capacities. The R152 has close to 2x the latent heat of evaporation per unit of refrigerant in the evaporator core. Start with an 0.062" orifice tube and see where that gets you. Seems to work great for me even with R134a and works even better with R152a. If most of your driving is around town at lower speeds you might even consider a 0.057" or 0.052" tube. The smaller tube actually cooled better at idle but caused more frequent compressor cycling and less cooling overall at highway speeds for me when I tried one.All the more reason to convert
Might have to go to a .057 as this is a mostly city and offroad rig.
