My K1500 DD Tow Pig

Supercharged111 · May 31, 2024

BNielsen said:
My compressor leaks it all out. I want the Sanden compressor upgrade; I think a couple of components on my truck have been replaced but I can't tell for certain.

I'll probably throw a can in it just to get air back for the time being, but unfortunately I know something will need to be done in the long run

Mine does too, but up to now it's been a multi-year leak so I can live with that.

BNielsen · May 31, 2024

Supercharged111 said:
Mine does too, but up to now it's been a multi-year leak so I can live with that.

I was hopeful with the new motor I'd be able to install all new accessories at the same time, but unfortunately the core motor is gone and I'm searching for a new one to rebuild; I really need to get the AC in the K3500 sorted out too.

Supercharged111 · Jun 25, 2024

Well my K3500 AC decided to die, but it seems its leak was much more abrupt so I need to buy more than freon. But as for the K1500, the pull and pay provideth.

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Now all 3 trucks can have the big cooler. This one came off an 8 lug truck, so trans death is unlikely to be the reason it was there.

Supercharged111 · Jul 16, 2024

Got something in the mail yesterday.

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Dually wheel cylinders, hopefully they're not overkill. If they are I'll have to change out for JB7 cylinders. But reading an old post the other day got me thinking, @Schurkey made a really good point: JB7 master and front calipers with JB6 rear stuff will leave the rear quite disadvantaged. Even JB7 wheel cylinders inside of JB6 drums will still leave the rear end a bit soft on braking power. Eons ago when I'd initially swapped to hydro boost I did a panic stop brake test and the rears locked first. That was a one off, it's never done that since. Furthermore, I have a jillion miles on these shoes that came from the junkyard with the rear end. Schurkey had asserted something was up, they shouldn't still be kicking. I think this may be why. I know @1998_K1500_Sub put them on his JB6 Suburban and was happy, so if this sucks I blame him!

Supercharged111 · Jul 17, 2024

Don't mind the filthy truck, check out those shiny new tails.

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Supercharged111 · Jul 27, 2024

Got the wheel cylinders installed today. What a pain that driver's side. The line fitting absolutely refused to go back in. I eventually ran a tap down the thing, all the while keeping the reservoir from going dry. Kept the old shoes and hardware, shoes are getting pretty thin. I wanted to keep my changes in bias limited to 1 thing at a time here. Pedal definitely feels different, you can really feel the back pulling now. Rear now consistently lock before the fronts do while easing into the pedal instead of shocking it to get the rear to jump and lock the rears. Should stop a trailer better now for sure. I'll have to live with it empty more before deciding whether or not it's too much for daily use. If it is, I can always go back to a more aggressive front pad like the Hawks were. But even so, I still think you'd have a helluva time finding a GMT400 that stops harder than this one with such little pedal effort. I was concerned the pedal would feel crappy because the dually doesn't have as much feedback, but now I'm thinking that must have more to do with the fact it has rubber lines and an ABS pump whereas this one has braided stainless lines and no pump.

scott2093 · Jul 28, 2024

Supercharged111 said:
Got the wheel cylinders installed today. What a pain that driver's side. The line fitting absolutely refused to go back in. I eventually ran a tap down the thing, all the while keeping the reservoir from going dry.

They have different threads amongst wheel cylinders. Different layout where bleeder is on top and bottom,internal bore sizes as well as the angle of the connections too . I found this out when trying to guess what cylinders I needed since my rear end swap was a mystery to me and bought the wrong ones. Not saying that's what happened with yours, just reminded me.

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Supercharged111 · Jul 28, 2024

The passenger side went on effortlessly as it should have. The line nut on the driver's side ended up being bent, the hex portion wobbled around as the thing threaded down finally. But the threaded portion was straight. First time I'd cracked that line since I got the rear end back in 2012.

Also forgot to mention I'd gravity bled some fresh fluid into the fronts as well. Back in December I'd cracked the bleeders and blew all that nastiness right out when I did pads. First fluid flush since 2019, shame on me. I used to try and do this annually.

Supercharged111 · Jul 29, 2024

After putting some miles on I think it adjusted itself tighter out back. I expected a longer pedal with the larger bore in the wheel cylinders, but it takes up the slack in the shoes so much quicker now I think it's actually higher. What a difference, and this truck stopped really well before too. Makes the plow truck feel like a royal POS. I'm gonna have to be pretty thorough on its brakes to get them up to speed like this.

Supercharged111 · Aug 21, 2024

Supercharged111 said:
Last week I went out to the hangar to grab a spare pressure plate for the Camaro and on the way this thing started shuddering, farting, and unlocked the torque converter. In no mood to deal with it, I tossed the plate in the Corvette and drove that home. Sunday I went back to try and datalog misfires to give me an idea where to look but the damn laptop wouldn't connect to it. Tried again today, same, but a Snapon Solus was available to borrow today and it pointed me to cylinders 2 and 8. They happen to live next to one another and come in close contact inside the distributor cap, so I gave that a whirl with a new rotor and it was back to its old self. I bought pieces with brass contacts, hoping those live longer than the aluminum that was on there.

Nope! Found hella corrosion on all contacts today and suspect an excessive gap between the rotor and cap so will get a new set tomorrow. It's 90% better after hitting it with the Dremel wire wheel.

My K1500 DD Tow Pig

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BNielsen

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scott2093

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