Alaskaburb
Newbie
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2014
- Messages
- 45
- Reaction score
- 23
Good morning and thanks for reading. I have done quite a bit of searching before asking here.
1993 K2500 Suburban, 5.7 with hydroboost, 4x4
Backing down the boat ramp a few months ago and my ABS light came on. I no longer have the 10mph whirring sound that I assume came from the ABS unit. This happened right after I installed a Posi-lock 4x4 kit. Currently both the ABS and brake idiot lights are on. I am out in the boonies with this suburban and there are no shops with the older OBD1 tool to test and bleed my system. It is probably not cost effective or even possible to test, replace or rebuild the ABS unit and get it bleed properly here.
Recently I have a complete rear brake service with drums, pads and hardware kit. Everything seemed great and rig appeared to be stopping well and smoothly. When I was putting my boat in the water a few weeks ago I could not stop my boat without using the E brake. The fronts did lock but as a result I lost steering. I came pretty close to being in one of the videos where the boat pulls the tow vehicle into the water. I could not get my drums to work well enough without the E brake. Once I stood on the E brake I could control my backing speed and the fronts did not lock.
Questions:
1. Do I just unplug all connectors going into the ABS unit to disable it and turn off the lights? I do not have the fuse to pull like on the 95 and newer units.
2. Will bypassing the ABS unit entirely and installing a Wilwood proportioner simplify things for me?
3. Do my rear drums auto adjust? I am pretty sure they do but I just want some clarification.
1993 K2500 Suburban, 5.7 with hydroboost, 4x4
Backing down the boat ramp a few months ago and my ABS light came on. I no longer have the 10mph whirring sound that I assume came from the ABS unit. This happened right after I installed a Posi-lock 4x4 kit. Currently both the ABS and brake idiot lights are on. I am out in the boonies with this suburban and there are no shops with the older OBD1 tool to test and bleed my system. It is probably not cost effective or even possible to test, replace or rebuild the ABS unit and get it bleed properly here.
Recently I have a complete rear brake service with drums, pads and hardware kit. Everything seemed great and rig appeared to be stopping well and smoothly. When I was putting my boat in the water a few weeks ago I could not stop my boat without using the E brake. The fronts did lock but as a result I lost steering. I came pretty close to being in one of the videos where the boat pulls the tow vehicle into the water. I could not get my drums to work well enough without the E brake. Once I stood on the E brake I could control my backing speed and the fronts did not lock.
Questions:
1. Do I just unplug all connectors going into the ABS unit to disable it and turn off the lights? I do not have the fuse to pull like on the 95 and newer units.
2. Will bypassing the ABS unit entirely and installing a Wilwood proportioner simplify things for me?
3. Do my rear drums auto adjust? I am pretty sure they do but I just want some clarification.