Pre-bled clutch master and slave set - install in one piece?

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someotherguy

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Sorry for the duplicate question; I also asked this in my build thread. The truck is a '93 C3500 with the NV4500. I got the Perfection Clutch # PF9061 assembly:
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What I'm wondering is, and I've searched as much as I can stomach on terms like "prebled" and it seems like the clutch master/slave/line assembly bills itself as an "install it in one piece" approach, but I don't think that's possible? The threads I found never seem to follow-up with the end result. I'm tearing into this tomorrow and some insight sure would help. The last time I did one of these it was on the later model NV4500 which is a totally different setup.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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Upon checking the 1994 factory manual set I've got here.. it would seem this IS possible, though I've read where people have really fought it. GM's standard practice on any clutch hydraulic system failure is to replace the assembly, meaning the whole assembly - master, slave (they call it the "actuator" cylinder), and line - with an assembled unit. (Pages 7C-3 thru 7C-4)

Just wondering who here has done it this way and what your experience was. I'm getting ready to tear into it pretty soon though, as in today, because the truck is immobile in the garage and very much in my way.

Richard
 

packer0440

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It is possible to install in one piece, but a bit tricky I will admit

For me the trick was to install it from the bottom and fish it over the top of the bellhousing. Just be careful when handling on one end that the other isn’t caught on anything so it doesn’t bend the line
 

JPVortex

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When I swapped my 94 k1500 to a 5LM60 I initially bought a prebled hydraulic system. I fought and fought with it for about an hour before I gave up. I was starting to think I’d snap the fragile plastic clutch line if I continued trying. I returned the prebled system and bought everything separate. I bought a NAPA master cylinder and slave cylinder(they’re just rebranded Luk parts) and for the clutch line I went to AutoZone and got part number 385-100. It’s a stainless steel braided line, and it works PERFECTLY. Super easily can run it behind the engine and to the passenger side of the transmission to the slave cylinder. Then I just zip tied it in various spots, the 2 most notable is I zip tied it to the brake booster to keep it away from the steering shaft, and also on the back of the engine to the thick wiring harness to stop it from rubbing on top of the trans.

To bleed it I just filled the MC up and pressed the clutch pedal a few times to get fluid down. Then I dismounted the slave cylinder from the transmission and used a long 1/4in extension to depress the slave cylinder bore to reverse bleed it up to the master cylinder. Did this about 50 times and she was good to go.
 

JPVortex

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But to be noted, I did use the slave cylinder and master for a 1990 K1500, not a 94.

Back in 90 it still used the regular flare fitting on the side of the slave cylinder(as opposed to on the back of it) and on the bottom of the master, as opposed to the later years which used the slightly different design. Pretty sure the bore size and everything is the same though, I haven’t had any problems.
 

someotherguy

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Yeah, I noticed the setup with the braided line and quick-disconnect, AFTER I had already placed the order. Got to say after a full night shift and breaking down in traffic at a left turn, I wasn't at my finest. More to the point I forgot to look up a discount code for Rock, as well.

I did order the setup with the aluminum master and slave, and the line it comes with is steel. No plastic stuff here.

Richard
 

someotherguy

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To bleed it I just filled the MC up and pressed the clutch pedal a few times to get fluid down. Then I dismounted the slave cylinder from the transmission and used a long 1/4in extension to depress the slave cylinder bore to reverse bleed it up to the master cylinder. Did this about 50 times and she was good to go.
By the way this is pretty much the method described in the factory service manual - bleeding by pressing the slave cylinder pushrod. A long, slow press all the way through the stroke, then slow release, followed by multiple short strokes 5-10mm while watching for bubbles, adding fluid as needed.

Oh, and to answer my own question, NO. Well, maybe it's possible to put this thing in as an assembly, but I did not. Way too much hassle. I split it apart then bled it afterwards.

I got the job done, will share the boring details in my build thread -> https://www.gmt400.com/threads/talk-me-into-or-out-of-it.60810

Richard
 
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someotherguy

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Someone make it make sense. The "Perfection Clutch" master cylinder is lopsided.

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Anybody who has replaced a clutch master in one of these trucks knows, there's no adjustment in those studs. They are where they are. The original master was positioned correctly. This one has the appearance of the finest Chinesium. I hope it holds up as I'm not looking forward to doing this job again anytime soon.

Richard
 

JPVortex

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Someone make it make sense. The "Perfection Clutch" master cylinder is lopsided.

You must be registered for see images attach


Anybody who has replaced a clutch master in one of these trucks knows, there's no adjustment in those studs. They are where they are. The original master was positioned correctly. This one has the appearance of the finest Chinesium. I hope it holds up as I'm not looking forward to doing this job again anytime soon.

Richard
Yeah that looks pretty crooked lol. Hopefully it’ll work out for a while though!
 

smdk2500

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Someone make it make sense. The "Perfection Clutch" master cylinder is lopsided.



Anybody who has replaced a clutch master in one of these trucks knows, there's no adjustment in those studs. They are where they are. The original master was positioned correctly. This one has the appearance of the finest Chinesium. I hope it holds up as I'm not looking forward to doing this job again anytime soon.

Richard
Just look at it with your head tilted it will look straight lol.
 
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