Who makes the shorties that bolt up to stock exhaust if you don't mind. Also, can you get them with a thread-o-let for 02 sensor? ThanksIf you can find Aluminum heads for TBI, you'll have no problems with it but, they're few and far between anymore. You can get a spread bore intake for TBI and use an adapter plate for your Throttle Body.
You need to decide how much money you wanna spend. A 383 with restrictive intake and exhaust is counter intuitive.
Cost but, not much elseI'm not a fan of those 193 junk heads but that's my opinion. I'm lazy and don't see any sense in working on junk just to get better junk. Your running a fairly mild cam. I'm running, on my Blue Print"383", the 08-432-8 cam with the Edelbrock 3704 TBI intake, a bored 46mm TB running at 20 PSI and stock 5.7L 61PPH (flow matched) injectors up to around 5800 RPM against the rev limiter. With shorty headers, to a 3" Y pipe, high flow Cat, and straight through muffler I'm getting plenty of flow. Note, the Shorty headers bolt right up in place of the stock cast iron manifolds. And believe me, shorties DO HELP as long as the rest of your system is free flowing, not as much as LTs but do help.
Anyway, yes you s/b able to run your stock TB as is up to ~5000 RPM (well maybe 4500), not much more, just jack up the pressure a little.
That could be, have you thought about getting the EBL Flash-II? You can tune it on your own, especially with a WBO2.
It's a joy to get out, hit the skinny pedal, and romp around. My problem is, I can't give it more than 1/2 throttle without smoking the right side tire with .411:1 gears and 275/60R15s - no posi!
Maybe sometime soon...YMMV
Thinking teardown
- Thread starter Anchor
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Summit Racing sells them, so does JBA as well as others. Summit's are painted while JBA's are SS.
Edit: Wow! Summit headers are NLA but, here's an example of JBAs
www.summitracing.com/search/year/1988/make/chevrolet/model/c1500/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=JBA%20hEADERS
1988 CHEVROLET C1500 5.7L/350 Chevy small block Gen I - JBA hEADERS KEYWORD Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing
Find 1988 CHEVROLET C1500 5.7L/350 Chevy small block Gen I Parts and Accessories JBA hEADERS KEYWORD and get Free Shipping on Orders Over $109 at Summit Racing!
Since you weren't the person who built the engine, AND you're having engine-shake problems...
...you probably need to haul a piston, ring set, connecting rod, the crank, the damper, the flexplate to someone who can verify the balance. They'll weigh the various parts, set-up bobweights, then spin the crank. You'll find out for certain whether you need offset-weight damper and flexplate, or if neutral-balance is the way to go.
The OEM balance of the TBI (and probably Vortec) small-blocks is to have a neutral-balance damper with an offset-weight flexplate/flywheel. That may or may not have changed based on the added "heavy metal" installed in the crankshaft. HOPEFULLY, a neutral-balance damper and neutral-balance flexplate/flywheel can be used. That's the "best" system. Many folks think that having neutral-balance parts at each end of the crankshaft makes for "internal balance" but this is not necessarily true. SBCs have had a counterweight at the flywheel flange since the '60s until the advent of the one-piece-seal rear mains; they're external balance at the rear but with neutral-balanced flywheel/flexplate.
...you probably need to haul a piston, ring set, connecting rod, the crank, the damper, the flexplate to someone who can verify the balance. They'll weigh the various parts, set-up bobweights, then spin the crank. You'll find out for certain whether you need offset-weight damper and flexplate, or if neutral-balance is the way to go.
The OEM balance of the TBI (and probably Vortec) small-blocks is to have a neutral-balance damper with an offset-weight flexplate/flywheel. That may or may not have changed based on the added "heavy metal" installed in the crankshaft. HOPEFULLY, a neutral-balance damper and neutral-balance flexplate/flywheel can be used. That's the "best" system. Many folks think that having neutral-balance parts at each end of the crankshaft makes for "internal balance" but this is not necessarily true. SBCs have had a counterweight at the flywheel flange since the '60s until the advent of the one-piece-seal rear mains; they're external balance at the rear but with neutral-balanced flywheel/flexplate.
That's exactly what it is.
If the crank has grooves you can catch a fingernail on, it needs turned. Otherwise you can polish it yourself.
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Seconded.
Found crankshaft damage. Having it turned .010 on mains and hopefully polish on rod journals. Lots of metal in pan. KB pistons that appear to not have had the ring gaps filed to spec. The pistons almost appear to have been scraping cylinder walls? It is daunting that with all of the obs trucks out there no one is making after market heads for them any more. I would be hesitant to try Chinese without a lot of input from those that have. Schurkey has suggested Vortec heads but sounds like egr is problem and I would like to have a motor that would pass smog. I feel like I'm too old to learn about strokers. I may still go with a crate 350 before it's over but hate to not use all of those expensive parts that PO bought.Thanks for all of you suggestions.
Vortec heads have decent performance potential. That said, I don't really "recommend" them. GM screwed the pooch by changing the intake manifold bolt pattern, changing the coolant bypass, and especially by eliminating the exhaust crossover passages in the castings.
There were inexpensive iron aftermarket heads based on the Vortec design that had the exhaust crossovers; but they're also out-of-production.
Update. Sorry, but I have been busy as can be. Here is where I am at. Took crank in for regrind of the mains and polish of rod journals. Will have machine shop tank the block to remove junk and maybe put a liner in #8. Will see what they say about the KB pistons. Hopefully if they assemble the crank and pistons they can see if there is a clearance problem. I think I will go back with the 193 swirl port heads since I can't find anything new. I just can't see not using all the expensive components. I did pick up the original engine from the truck today from a guy about 40 miles away so if the machine shop gives the stroker thumbs down I have a core for crate motor. Will post as I proceed and hopefully I won't hit the wall. Thank you all for input and I will be back bothering people soon. I know the smart money says don't use the swirl ports but I like torque and I guess I could change heads at a later date in the truck if I need to and can find some other heads. Cheers
Smart money says to match your spending. Don't put a diamond in a goat's butt.
Similar threads
Staff online
-
kennythewelderOfficially Retired, B31-3 (6-G) certified welder.
Members online
- smdk2500
- Shocker53
- Rock Hard Concrete
- 11bravo
- Caman96
- offroadtahoe
- kennythewelder
- dexmann1
- gillsaty
- RAAK
- 99xcss4
- Autoalchemist
- BlueLightning19
- Gen3Convoy
- Joeyatwell5
- 96obschevy
- Road Trip
- KansasOBS
- TooManyProjects
- PolarBear
- Charlesteneows
- n2xlr8n
- Xavier83
- evilunclegrimace
- Shannon78
- Claymore877
- IndexOf0
- mbitsbyte
- BNielsen
- TripleM
- Alteca
- movietvet
- gashog2
- tbu hberger
- SUBURBAN5
- Drunkcanuk
- jvick9494
- Luke_P
- 454cid
- Orpedcrow
- ODaily
- LJ1977
- ahemi242
- Jaydan_mieth
- Salman87
- kixb
- Moparmat2000
- Bow_61509
- Elff
- Spareparts