‘98 5.7L Vortec Swap *Misfiring* Issues

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ETXtreme99

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1999 S10 Xtreme - 5.7L Vortec Swap from a 1998 K1500 Silverado. VIN number verified from donor truck, motor has less than 100k miles, more than 60k.

This truck ran and drove flawlessly when I bought it from the previous owner up in OK in October. Drove it daily with zero issues, other than a pesky O2 sensor code causing a check engine light. Oil looked good and coolant was clean at purchase, both are still clean now.

Late March/early May I had to park the truck for a few days as I caught pneumonia, when I went to drive it to work the day after I was cleared, it made it about 15 miles then started running extremely rough going down the road. Started only under load or going up a hill. Checked codes to see a knock sensor code (don’t have it at the moment, can search back for it after I get off work and update the thread). Put a can of Berryman’s B12 through it in addition to a tank of 93 fuel to clean up any injector gunk that might have been causing the misfire. When that didn’t work, I put new plugs (AC Delco Platinum) and wires also ACD brand on the motor. Still no fix. Put two brand new Bosch Wide Band O2 Sensors on it (past where the cats would be if they were there), as well as a new Intake Plenum, Fuel Injector assembly, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Fuel Delivery Line O-rings, and a Fuel Filter. None of that worked, so I replaced the knock sensor pigtail and traced the wire to the ECU to make sure nothing was amiss. Still no luck. On to the fun part.

Truck will idle clean as a whistle when it’s cold, and even when it warms up idle is perfect. You can leave it in park and blow the mufflers off of it, no issues, no sputtering, no backfires. Motor will sing like brand new. Only when you get the truck moving will it have hiccups. Anywhere from 30mph-70mph, around 25-50% throttle, the truck shudders and spits, hesitating and missing like crazy, however if you stomp on it, it has no hesitation to absolutely shred the rear tires at any speed. Only time there is an issue with the idle is when the truck is at operating temperature, in gear and stopped, a slight roughness will kinda shake the truck (think like small RV cam level shake/drop in RPM). Timing shows dead on 0° with the only change on live data while driving is knock retard, usually about 4°. Knock sensor code has come back, but is a different code than the first. (I’m assuming one was no communication due to a bad pigtail and the new one is low voltage, again, I’ll post the codes when I get a chance to pull them again).

Definitely the engine, I’ve read a lot on here where people say look at the torque converter or what have you. This is 100% without a doubt the motor. Question is what gives? Any insight would be appreciated, I have absolutely fried my brain and destroyed my sleep schedule trying to figure out what this issue could be, and it is plaguing me still.
 

ETXtreme99

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What's the fuel pressure like when it's doing the thing?
This is the only thing I’m not sure of. OBD reader were using is an AUTEL model tablet. I know it sounds stupid, but I looked through all the live engine data tabs and couldn’t find fuel pressure anywhere. Do the CFI Vortec motors have a way to read fuel pressure? There’s no electronic components near the regulator, hell I nearly had a heart attack when I put the new injectors in and saw the regulator didn’t even have a hose going to it.

From what I remember the fuel trim for each bank was sitting somewhere around -5/-6 going down the road at normal throttle.

Forgot to mention in last post, but every part I’ve put on has improved the issue for about 5 minutes of driving, then it comes back in full force.
 
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ETXtreme99

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Mechanical gauge to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. That's where I'd start.
Fuel pressure should be like 55-60 right? Would a failing pump cause it to run right at idle but miss horribly under load?
 

Komet

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Fuel pressure should be like 55-60 right? Would a failing pump cause it to run right at idle but miss horribly under load?
58 psi (4 bar) would be what I'd look for without external influence on the regulator if it's so equipped, I forget what all is on that thing. A failing pump can cause it to go deadly lean when the juice can't keep up with the squeeze.
 

ETXtreme99

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58 psi (4 bar) would be what I'd look for without external influence on the regulator if it's so equipped, I forget what all is on that thing. A failing pump can cause it to go deadly lean when the juice can't keep up with the squeeze.
Heard that. Probably won’t be till early next week when I can get my hands on it again. Work is backed up so I’ll reply when I get a chance to check it. Regulator is rated “60 to 66psi” direct quote from the AC Delco page where I got it along with the replacement injectors. And I kid you not, it’s dead in the center of the upper intake manifold. No hardware going to it, just nestled in its slot in the injector assembly (the spider style or crab style whatever you prefer).

It just floors me that I can find so many people on here having very similar issues to mine, but none exactly right. It also seems like almost all of them have had fixes that worked that are miles apart from each other, some being a new distributor completely, to new fuel pumps, to just injectors or regulators, to knock sensors.
 

ETXtreme99

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Okay so I got in touch with another local mechanic that’s fairly well known for building these swapped trucks and cars, well versed in this year range. He thinks that the torque converter is acting up and possibly causing the roughness, which in turn is tripping the knock sensor and causing the engine to lean out and misfire. Has anyone heard something like this before?
 

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Anything is possible. Everything is required to work properly for the truck to run properly.

The Usual Three:
  1. Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.)
  2. How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace distributor cap, rotor, plug wires, spark plugs. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper initial timing (TBI) and electronic spark advance (TBI and Vortec). Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”.
  3. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle. The service manual set can be downloaded from the links in the Sticky thread section of the Engine forum on this web site.

"93 fuel" doesn't clean anything. Top Tier fuel has additional detergents.

No idea how wideband O2 sensors--downstream--are going to affect the situation. Kinda thinking they're a waste of money.
 
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