Fairly new AC system barely cools truck

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hekg

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You need to know what your ambient temperature over the condenser and your relative humidity are. I like using a wet bulb to directly measure it. Without knowing those two values it is impossible to know if your system is falling outside of the designed cooling output.

I just checked my Sanden 4261 equipped single evaporator system as a reference point for this, 84F and 55% RH here today.

A probably overly mathematical approach, but if you look at the chart in the FSM there are no points for 84F and 55% RH, I thus averaged the values between 50% & 60% RH and 80F and 90F.

50% RH, 80F = 53F
60% RH, 80F = 56F
Average of those two points 54.5F

50% RH, 90F = 59F
60% RH, 90F = 63F
Average of those two is 61F.

54.5 + 61 = 115.5 / 2 = 57.75 or call it 58F.

This chart is at 2,000 rpm, center vent temps with R12.

With R134A it is

50% RH, 80F = 56F
60% RH, 80F = 59F
Average of those two points is 57.5F

50% RH, 90F = 63F
60% RH, 90F = 66F
Average of those two points is 64.5F

Average both and get 61F at 2,000 rpm center vent.

R152a falls somewhere between R12 and R134a in performance. R134a being slightly worse than R12 or R152a especially as ambient temperatures increase.

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Thus my unit cooling at 48F at idle is pretty darn good, better than GM considered acceptable performance per repair guidelines. At 2,000 rpm though, the system will cool to ~34F before the cycling switch calls it quits, that is the very edge of where I can make this system cool before the evaporator core turns into a brick of ice. i recently replaced the cycling switch, it was acting up and holding the compressor on long enough to get the vent temps in the mid 20s despite it being over 90F ambients and freezing the evaporator core up. Even with the freeze up being the limiting factor, it is out cooling GMs minimum standards by ~22F in my ambient temperature and humidity based on the original R12 performance expectation just goes to show how much better modern condenser designs work as well as my upgraded cooling fan moving more airflow.

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Yeah your calculations seems spot on and man is your system performing incredibly well. I'm jealous because I would be more than happy to get even 55F at 2000rpm.

Which is the dual air condenser that you recommend because I haven't found a compatible one that measures over 30"?
 

east302

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Yes the blend door is working ok. It was the first thing that the shop tested and clamped down the heater hose to block hot water flow but it made no difference to the temps.
It wouldn’t hurt to double-check and see if the actuator is adjusting correctly. It’s behind the ashtray - pull the glovebox to see it. There is a notched position indicator dial on it. As you adjust the temperature, watch to see that it rotates smoothly from roughly 11 to 1 o’clock positions.

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L31MaxExpress

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Yeah your calculations seems spot on and man is your system performing incredibly well. I'm jealous because I would be more than happy to get even 55F at 2000rpm.

Which is the dual air condenser that you recommend because I haven't found a compatible one that measures over 30"?
OSC 4721 is what is in my 99 Tahoe, provided they are still being built the dimensions spec'd on RockAuto's site. I went through 3 different condemsers for the 87 G20, all built wrong, before adapting a replacement for a Peterbilt into place. The one I adapted into place on it covers the whole radiator opening in the core support plus a bit on each side. Back to the OSC 4721, still listed as a 34-7/16" wide core. Compared to the smaller core, should drop your high side pressures atleast 30 psi in the same ambient temps as it has a lot more surface area and can help shed more BTUs to the airflow through it. You really need to get the high side pressure under 250 psi at 2,000 rpm and the low side needs to get down close to 30 psi for the system to cool well especially with R134a. If you used a White orifice tube and if you open up the system, get a Four Seasons 38887 Yellow orfice tube. Then whatever you do make sure the condenser does not have one in the outlet as many are shipped with one in place there.

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L31MaxExpress

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I will also mention the Sanden 4261 in my 97 Express still cooled adequately at highway speeds even with the wrong rear expansion valve that was dumping way too much refrigerant through it. On 105F day it would still pull mid-low 40s at highway speed with both blowers cranked up to high fan speed albeit was terrible at idle. It would cool going down the road pretty well with some RPM, although my engine turns ~2,250+ rpm @ 70 and nearly 2,500 rpm @ 80 mph.
 

L31MaxExpress

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It wouldn’t hurt to double-check and see if the actuator is adjusting correctly. It’s behind the ashtray - pull the glovebox to see it. There is a notched position indicator dial on it. As you adjust the temperature, watch to see that it rotates smoothly from roughly 11 to 1 o’clock positions.

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Another good point, although I would also check the recirculate one as well. In high heat and humidity that one can result in poor performance as well. Switching between recirculate and outside air should make a very noticeable difference in both vent temps and blower noise. There are ambient conditions here in Texas that I have experienced as much as a 10-15F increase in temps switching to outside air from recirculate. The more ambient humidity and the hotter it is outside, the bigger the difference recirculation makes. I actually often use outside air to reduce the cooling at highway speeds even in the middle of summer.
 

L31MaxExpress

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Another thing I have run across, the accumulator blanket does make a difference. If yours is missing, GM sells a blanket for the new Express vans that fits the older GM accumulators like a glove. The older R12 era G-vans did not even come with one, but it has one now and the suction hose has also been insulated to help keep engine heat out of the a/c system. Heat that enters the suction side of the ac system raises the overall system pressures and must also be rejected through the condenser.

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hekg

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It wouldn’t hurt to double-check and see if the actuator is adjusting correctly. It’s behind the ashtray - pull the glovebox to see it. There is a notched position indicator dial on it. As you adjust the temperature, watch to see that it rotates smoothly from roughly 11 to 1 o’clock positions.

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OK will check this out. thanks for the tip.
 

hekg

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Another thing I have run across, the accumulator blanket does make a difference. If yours is missing, GM sells a blanket for the new Express vans that fits the older GM accumulators like a glove. The older R12 era G-vans did not even come with one, but it has one now and the suction hose has also been insulated to help keep engine heat out of the a/c system. Heat that enters the suction side of the ac system raises the overall system pressures and must also be rejected through the condenser.

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Will be ordering these asap. Thanks!
 

L31MaxExpress

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Will be ordering these asap. Thanks!
This stuff works well to cover your suction hoses as well. I usually also zip tie it at regular intervals to make sure it stays in place. The stuff GM wrapped the suction hoses with falls off in chunks after a few years thanks to the heat it is exposed to. It is what is wrapped around the suction hose from the accumulator to the compressor on the 1987 in the picture.

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L31MaxExpress

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I put 100 miles on the 87 today to pickup more materials for the interior build out. The Sanden was definitely struggling a bit when I was sitting in a 30 minute, 5 mile long traffic jam at idle. At one point, literally put it in Park and sat for a solid 10 minutes before moving again. It is about 90F and 70% RH today though here. It was still holding 50F at idle though. Then again it only has half an interior at the moment, no headlining, no walls and the rear floor is currently bare sheatmetal, so definitely not helping the situation. Going down the road at 70 mph it was cooling into the mid 30s. Long story, you should definitely be able to drastically improve on the 68F temps.


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