Hey guys so I just recently did an engine/transmission swap in my truck. My truck is a 1998 Chevy k1500 extended cab with the 5.7 350 vortec in it and a 4L60E transmission. I pulled both the engine and transmission out of a 1998 suburban and resealed the top end meaning I ended up taking the distributor out I was told it might be out of time so I took number one cylinder, spark plug out and got that cylinder to TDC on compression stroke, the line on the harmonic bouncer was lined up correctly I then put the distributor back in with the rotor pointing to number one cylinder. Still no fire, I was told that the spider injectors are hardwired into the ECM so what I did was, I took the suburbans ECM out and put that in my truck. Still no fire. I was told to put my old truck engines set of injectors in the suburbans engine along with my original truck engines ECM and that should work. The only thing that did not get changed was the harness and the transfer case
Do I have to use same ECM with same spider injectors
- Thread starter Cambows
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WICruiser-97
I'm Awesome
When you say no fire does that mean that it cranks but does not start?
Check for spark at the #1 plug, a timing light or what ever you have handy to confirm that the plug is being fired.
Pull the plugs and check for fuel. If you have cranked with a no start condition they should be wet with fuel, if not check fuel pressure for a starting point.
I rebuild an engine for a 97 and was 100% sure I had the distributor timed correctly. However ti would not start. Long story short I was 180 degrees off on the distributor, reset to TDC on #1 on the correct stroke and it fired right up.
Check for spark at the #1 plug, a timing light or what ever you have handy to confirm that the plug is being fired.
Pull the plugs and check for fuel. If you have cranked with a no start condition they should be wet with fuel, if not check fuel pressure for a starting point.
I rebuild an engine for a 97 and was 100% sure I had the distributor timed correctly. However ti would not start. Long story short I was 180 degrees off on the distributor, reset to TDC on #1 on the correct stroke and it fired right up.
I failed to mention that the engine I put in has 90,000 miles on it, but was also sitting for about 8 to 9 years. What I’m noticing that right behind where the fuel lines connect to each other is getting really hot to the touch after only cranking it for five seconds. It makes sense to think I have blocked fuel lines, But the heat is only in that one spot. I crack the pressure release valve And stick a punch on the needle and I have fuel squirting out, which makes me think. I have fuel flow and I’m not clogged. I took the number one spark plug out and it does not smell like gas at all.
Is it true that the spider injector set is hardwired with the original engines ECM so those injectors have to run with that ECM? Currently, I have the suburbans injectors in with the suburbans ECM and and I still have no start only crank. I was told to put my original engines set of injectors in along with my original engines ECM in and it should work.
Is it true that the spider injector set is hardwired with the original engines ECM so those injectors have to run with that ECM? Currently, I have the suburbans injectors in with the suburbans ECM and and I still have no start only crank. I was told to put my original engines set of injectors in along with my original engines ECM in and it should work.
How would it know what injectors you have? Who told you that? What's hard wired , where for nuclear EM bomb? Have you actually looked in the service manual? You sound capable of reading and performing the service diagnostic. In the engine section there is a link , download the free PDF OE service manuals. Get the real info, the 98 has four manuals, covers everything, bumper to bumper. All systems and diagnostic testing procedures.
WICruiser-97
I'm Awesome
I can not see how the fuel lines would get hot, the engine is not running to produce heat and pumping fuel through the lines would cause them to cool, not heat. A little fuel out of the valve is not a good indication of fuel pressure or even volume delivered. Assuming that the fuel system worked with the prior engine, the fuel pump, lines (up to the engine), etc. should be okay but it cannot hurt to confirm.
Given all the swap information regarding injectors I do not believe the injectors and the ECM are matched such that you need to keep them together. Your #1 plug being dry indicates that there is no fuel being delivered, possibly the fuel pressure regulator is stuck from sitting all that time.
Given all the swap information regarding injectors I do not believe the injectors and the ECM are matched such that you need to keep them together. Your #1 plug being dry indicates that there is no fuel being delivered, possibly the fuel pressure regulator is stuck from sitting all that time.
I’ve gone back and put my old set of injectors in that I know we’re working correctly but there still not injecting fuel. I get fuel up to the injectors but no injection from the injectors themself. I give it a little ether and it will sputter on that.
WICruiser-97
I'm Awesome
Gotta test the fuel pressure, most local auto parts stores loan fuel pressure testers. If the fuel pressure is too low the injectors will not deliver fuel.
Is it possible that during the swap that you covered the fuel lines with something that has now become lodged in one of the lines?
Is it possible that during the swap that you covered the fuel lines with something that has now become lodged in one of the lines?
What does this mean? The rotor pointed to the cylinder on the front left corner of the engine? The rotor pointed to the #1 spark plug wire on the cap? The rotor pointed to the #1 terminal INSIDE the cap?
The service manual has the entire CORRECT procedure for stabbing the Vortec distributor. It would be worth downloading the service manual set for your vehicle, and following that procedure.
No spark, or the engine doesn't actually run?
This is not a problem with the injectors not being compatible with the computer.
Verify fuel pressure
Verify all the other "tune-up" items FIND OUT if you've got spark, using a spark tester calibrated for HEI.
Connect a scan tool, check cam offset. Look for "codes" but also verify every sensor and computer output.
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