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GoToGuy

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What is the factory tire size for your truck? If your OE tire is originally a 30, or 30.5 or 31 inch. And you now have 33 on.
And if your using your stock speedo/ odometer , it is in no way correct. Taller tire , less revolutions per mile. Therefore indicating lower vehicle speed than actual ground speed. Using that as your mpg reference your math is wrong.
 

MBRZ71

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If they didn't change the tires then there's apples to apples comparison from before the engine changes.
 

GoToGuy

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Did you read the post, unless you prefer to repeat the obvious.
 

Caman96

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“The EPA estimates for a 1988 K5 Blazer are 11 city/16 highway with a combined average of 13.”

This is what I found for an 88 Blazer 350 fuel economy.
Also, seeing 235/75R/15 as factory tire size. Unless, you opted for the 215/75R/15’s.
 
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kennythewelder

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Gas millage????? WTH is that. 97 Silverado, about 10 MPG, 79 Corvette about 8 MPG. Both have 373 gears. Truck has a 4L60E, Vette has the OE 4 speed manual. This is in town of course, and well I do kind of have a lead foot. Both have a 350. L-31 in the truck, and L82, 4 bolt main in the Vette.
 

Road Trip

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The best way to kill economy is drive 80-85 mph into a 15-20+ mph headwind too.

That being said when I was in Colorado and also New Mexico at over 1 mile elevation and at times over 2 miles, my little Pathfinder was getting 2-3 mpg better than it has ever gotten here in Texas. I crunched some quick air density numbers and the 4.0L effectively becomes a 3.0L air consumption thus fuel consumption wise at 2 miles elevation.

Not only was your engine 'acting' smaller due to the lower air density, but also your Pathfinder was acting like it
had a virtual smaller total frontal area at elevation in CO as compared to driving the same speed while pushing
through 'closer to sea level air density' in TX. And of course the faster you go, the more that
frontal area x Cd x Air Density matters.

****

I've always had an interest in MPG/efficiency. Once you spend just a little time rooting around
in the MPG rabbit hole, the fact that rolling resistance is a constant, but that wind resistance
(ie: punching a hole in the atmosphere) goes up with the square of your speed, this means my
preferred method of rapid automotive travel directly affects my wallet. :-(

Of all the wind resistance graphs out there, I find the following graph to be the most helpful to me:

You must be registered for see images attach

(Compare the total resistance at ~45mph {~17KW} vs 90mph {~70KW} -- Speed thrills...but also sux the gas!)


I like to use the following curves when trying to map a real-world 20 or 30 mpg vehicle to fuel consumption at speed.
(Note: For accuracy, you have to include any headwind in addition to your ground speed in order to find the
most accurate spot on the curve below. (If you've ever headed West and pushed all day against a steady 20+ mph
headwind you know the difference it can make in a tank of gas.)

You must be registered for see images attach



A thumbnail sketch of what a given MPG # for a tank of gas represents would include:

* Wind Resistance x coefficient of drag for your ride (see squared resistance curves above)
* Rolling Resistance (Tire inflation = how much energy lost to flexing tire sidewalls + contact patch friction, size & shape)
* Pumping Losses (the bigger the motor x the higher the cruise vacuum {the worser} x the more Revolutions Per Mile {the worser}
* Parasitic losses in drivetrain: Power consumed to drive water pump & fan + stuff on serpentine belt, engine oil pump, auto trans ATF pump, & power through 90° angle in diff)
* Total number of changes in vehicle speed per tank.
* Total vehicle weight vs number of accelerations per tank. (more work performed per mile driven + 4 tires acting as large flywheels consuming energy with every speed change.)
* Total Number of Elevation Changes per tank (!)

****

Given all of the above, if I wanted to post a 'repeatable at will' hero MPG number for my Built to Work big block chore truck,
this is what I would do:

1) Tires aired up towards the max rating. (Temporarily trading long term goal of even wear across the tires for min rolling resistance.)
2) Engine warmed up, fill up tank (slowly + 3 clicks) at gas station located on Highway 36 at the Colorado/Kansas border.
3) Head East, come up to speed once, and drive at the Rt. 36 speed limit, taking advantage of any prevailing tailwind I might encounter.
4) ~24 gallons later, stop driving smoothly, pull over to refill. (slowly + 3 clicks) Note: No hypermiling/getting in the way of other folks on a mission.
5) Post photos of both time stamped receipts + before/after odometer readings, and resulting hero MPG for the beast. (And yet still instantly lose credibility
with some because they've never seen anything close to this # in a similarly equipped GMT400. :0)

I know, all of the above is concentrated boredom when gas is hovering at $2.00/gallon. But as gas prices are closing in on $4/gallon yet again,
I offer the above as food for thought. And from the way the original post reads I'm thinking that @Nick88 has honed his GMT400
supercruise skills and has figured out how to minimize the effects of those big tires acting like 4 large flywheels that resist changes in speed.

It's quite possible to achieve > factory MPG ratings. But the driver has to work within the confines of the top 7 MPG variables listed above. And that same driver
will never get the 'KS Rt. 36 nonstop cruise MPG' down on parallel I-70 at 75-80mph heading westbound, or when employing heavy pedal action during the
cut & thrust I see when folks are rushing to/from work, or driving up/down the mountain roads of Vermont.

Given all of the above, I hope that Nick88 and others will continue to share what they've been able to eke out
of their GMT400 vehicles. FWIW I've driven everything from 70+ mpg 2-seater aluminum Honda Insight hybrids to
a lean-burn Civic VX on the far side of 60mpg...all the way down to the big block C2500 chore truck, so from firsthand
experience I am comfortable to share the above.

I'm all about the data. Together let's see what we can discover about the GMT400 vs MPG calculus.

EDIT: Years ago I use to traverse Kansas on I-70 with the goal of minimizing the time spent doing so.
Oh so boring. And then there came a time where I just didn't want to face the monotonous sameness of that
driving chore yet again, so this is how I was motivated to discover the Rt. 36 experience. Sure, it takes a bit
longer in terms of sheer wall-clock time, but it actually felt a lot shorter behind the wheel, and I enjoyed the
little towns I drove through along the way.

As a matter of fact, on the rare occasions that I still get to indulge in a road trip I almost never use the
Interstate system anymore. And no regrets. :0)

Cheers --
 

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Caman96

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OP, interesting read, I've noticed some of the same things with my truck averaging about 18mpg but the highways in SW Washington are hilly and winding. I'm curious is your truck an automatic or manual? Mines a clutch and I shift at about 2,000 rpm and try to keep my crusing at or under 1,500rpm 55 on the highway on 5th it sits right at about 1,600 give or take

Screen grab from fuel economy.gov for'88 not huge jump so it's believable IMO
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
 

BeXtreme

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Not only was your engine 'acting' smaller due to the lower air density, but also your Pathfinder was acting like it
had a virtual smaller total frontal area at elevation in CO as compared to driving the same speed in TX.
And of course the faster you go, the more that frontal area x Cd x Air Density matters.

****

I've always had an interest in MPG/efficiency. Once you spend just a little time rooting around
in the MPG rabbit hole, the fact that rolling resistance is a constant, but that wind resistance
(ie: punching a hole in the atmosphere) goes up with the square of your speed, this means my
preferred method of rapid automotive travel directly affects my wallet. :-(

Of all the wind resistance graphs out there, I find the following graph to be the most helpful to me:

You must be registered for see images attach

(Compare the total resistance at ~45mph {~350 Newtons} vs 90mph {~2200 Newtons} Speed thrills...but also sux the gas!)


I like to use the following curves when trying to map a real-world 20 or 30 mpg vehicle to fuel consumption at speed.
(Note: For accuracy, you have to include any headwind in addition to your ground speed in order to find the
most accurate spot on the curve below. (If you've ever headed West and pushed all day against a steady 20+ mph
headwind you know the difference it can make in a tank of gas.)

You must be registered for see images attach



A thumbnail sketch of what a given MPG # for a tank of gas represents would include:

* Wind Resistance x coefficient of drag for your ride (see squared resistance curves above)
* Rolling Resistance (Tire inflation = how much energy lost to flexing tire sidewalls + contact patch friction, size & shape)
* Pumping Losses (the bigger the motor x the higher the cruise vacuum {the worser} x the more Revolutions Per Mile {the worser}
* Parasitic losses in drivetrain: Power consumed to drive water pump & fan, stuff on serpentine belt, engine oil pump, auto trans ATF pump, & power through 90° angle in diff)
* Total number of changes in vehicle speed per tank.
* Total vehicle weight vs number of accelerations (more work performed per mile driven + 4 tires acting as large flywheels consuming energy with every speed change.)
* Total Number of Elevation Changes per tank (!)

****

Given all of the above, if I wanted to post a defensible hero MPG number for my Built to Work big block chore truck,
this is what I would do:

1) Tires aired up towards the max rating. (Temporarily trading long term goal of even wear across the tires for min rolling resistance.)
1) Engine warmed up, fill up tank (slowly + 3 clicks) at gas station located on Highway 36 at the Colorado/Kansas border.
2) Head East, come up to speed once, and drive at the Rt. 36 speed limit, taking advantage of any prevailing tailwind I might encounter.
3) ~24 gallons later, stop driving smoothly, pull over to refill. (slowly + 3 clicks) Note: No hypermiling/getting in the way of other folks on a mission.
4) Post hero MPG for the beast. (And instantly lose credibility with some because they've never seen anything close to this # in a similarly equipped GMT400.)

I know, all of the above is concentrated boredom when gas is hovering at $2.00/gallon. But as gas prices are closing in
on $4/gallon yet again, I offer the above as food for thought. And I will bet a dollar that @Nick88 has honed his GMT400
supercruise skills and has figured out how to minimize the effects of those big tires acting like 4 large flywheels that resist changes in speed.

It's quite possible to achieve > factory MPG ratings. But the driver has to work within the confines of the 7 variables listed above. And that same driver
will never get the KS Rt. 36 nonstop MPG on nearby I-70 at 75-80mph heading westbound, or when heavy pedal action during the cut & thrust I see when
folks are rushing to/from work, or driving up/down the mountains roads of Vermont.

Given all of the above, I hope that Nick88 and others will continue to share what they've been able to eke out
of their GMT400 vehicles. FWIW I've driven everything from 70+ mpg 2-seater aluminum Honda Insights to
a lean-burn Civic VX on the far side of 60mpg...all the way to the chore truck, so from firsthand experience
I am comfortable to share the above.

I'm all about the data. Together let's see what we can discover about the GMT400/MPG calculus.

EDIT: Years ago I use to traverse Kansas on I-70 with the goal of minimizing the time spent doing so.
Oh so boring. And then there came a time where I just didn't want to face the sameness of that experience
yet again, so this is how I discovered the Rt. 36 experience. Sure, it takes longer in terms of wall-clock time,
but it felt a lot shorter, and I enjoyed the little towns I drove through. As a matter of fact, on the rare occasions
that I get to indulge in a road trip I almost never use the Interstate system anymore. No regrets. :0)

Cheers --
Since we are getting technical here... once you start going above 100mph, you actually hit a point where the amount of drag you have to intentionally create to make downforce on rear tires to have enough traction to keep moving forward surpasses the amount of drag generated from the frontal area. I was the systems engineer for a school sponsored electric land speed record car in my last few years of engineering school, and this was a major concern. It starts adding up exponentially... frontal area is a constant and drag induced by that area goes up by the square of velocity. You need to generate enough power to the ground to at least equal the amount of drag, and the amount of power you can transfer to the ground is dependent on the force downward and the coefficient of static friction. At some point, the amount of force downward generated by the weight of the vehicle alone is not enough to maintain traction. This means that you MUST be generating enough aerodynamic downforce at speed to maintain traction.

There are several aerodynamic calculators out there that may or may not take this into account, like this one. http://www.stealthmotorsport.co.uk/horsepower.html
I think it only takes into account aerodynamic and does not look at the additional amount of downforce needed to actually DRIVE at that speed. You would need to know the contact patch area of the tires, the static coefficent of the tire and surface being driven on as well to be able to calculate that. As far as just pure aerodynamic drag goes, you can see... you only need 20hp to go 60mph, 40hp to go 80mph, 75hp to go 100mph, 236hp to go 150mph, 550hp to go 200mph, and 1060hp to go 240mph

So the amount of power needed to go 80mph compared to 60mph is DOUBLE.
 

glock20

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Probably did. My L05 powered 83 G20 managed to get 21-22 mpg on numerous longer road trips when it was tuned for lean cruise and had tri-y headers and decent exhaust on it. Some of that due to a 0.7:1 overdrive and 3.08 gear. With a tired ~250K mile Q-Jet fed 305 it would get 17-18 mpg on trips.

The 33” Mud Terrains and 3.73 gearing have me questioning this. Who adjusted pcm for tire size?

still waiting on proof from OP. spoiler, it won't happen because he's not getting 20s mpg

this is as bad as the cummins guys claiming 20mpg while towing
 
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