Ultimate 2500 IFS upgrades

[Dantheman1540]

My 1996 K2500 is in desperate need of an alignment, it drives straight, but the wheel has been off center so long, the 10oclock position of the wheel is worn worse than anything. Since the truck has 145k on it and most stuff appears stock I’m assuming all the front end is all original. I don’t want to go crazy and lift or lower the truck and I don’t plan to ever run bigger than a 285/70/17 tire, but I want strength and reliability.

So my question is, if you were going to get an alignment and didn’t want to have to do one again for 50k miles. What items would you replace/upgrade?

Currently the only thing I really have planned are kryptonite tierods because they are awesome and I’ve owned them for a few different vehicles. I don’t feel that the drag link is necessary tho, not with a 33” tire, but maybe I’m wrong.

Also not a huge fan of anything that has a non sealed joint. I don’t like squeaks, and don’t want to have to shoot lube in heims all the time. So I’m kinda not interested in the support brackets from cognito, unless the idler and pitman arms on these are even worse than the GMT800 trucks. Would rather buy an extra tough idler and pitman arm tho.

Let me know what you all would do! And no it’s not getting a Dana 60….. yet.

 

[Schurkey]

1996 K2500

6-lug or 8-lug? Big difference in part numbers if not in general design, although the rotors and hubs are totally different with the 8-lug being difficult.

What brake option code? JB/JD6? JB/JD7? Something else?

the truck has 145k on it... ...if you were going to get an alignment and didn’t want to have to do one again for 50k miles. What items would you replace/upgrade?

INSPECT your steering/suspension components before buying replacements. There's the possibility with today's Communist Chinese-sourced parts, that the stuff you have is better than the new-in-the-box stuff you'd be buying.

That said, with 145K on it already, and you expect it to be good for another 50K with no attention...you're probably going to replace ALL the suspension joints, and certainly ALL the rubber including the bump-stops.

Some folks will replace the entire upper control arm. Gets you fresh rubber control arm bushings and fresh upper ball joints. Lower control arms are...tougher. You'll likely be putting ball joints and control arm bushings into the arms you have, or Treasure Yard replacements. If you buy lower arms from the Treasure Yard, you can rebuild them and swap 'em in quickly. (Assumes you can pry the original arms off of the torsion bar, which I was not smart enough to do when I rebuilt the arms on my '88 K1500. Since then, I've learned that a two-jaw gear puller can force the torsion bar out of the socket on the control arm.) I generally prefer Polyurethane control arm bushing inserts, but I put "new" aftermarket upper arms with the included rubber bushings on my '97 K2500.

Sway bar bushings and end links will be required. With those removed, the CV shaft(s) should be easy to replace if needed.

Then there's the Pitman arm, the idler arm, and the idler arm bracket. Be sure to inspect the shock absorbers, steering knuckles and the bearing hubs. 8-lug trucks that need rotors or bearing hubs become a "real" job. 6-lug truck are no particular problem for the hubs, and the rotors just fall off, maybe with a little persuasion of the hammer sort.

You'll need to deal with the steering shaft rag joint. Trucks newer than '95 are more limited in replacement options. But the original joint is pretty-much guaranteed to be wiped-out. Common problem. Search for "rag joint" on this web site for about three hundred pages of postings.

Be prepared to find all sorts of other issues as you take the suspension apart--PS pump, PS gear, rusted frame at the PS gear, brakes including metal tubes and rubber hoses, ABS, disgustingly contaminated brake fluid that needs to be flushed using a scan tool to chatter the ABS solenoid valves, ancient front or rear differential lube, leaking differential seals, etc.

It would be worth your time to inspect the rear suspension/brakes, too. Check for hatefully-rusted U-bolts, rotted leaf spring bushings, rear shocks, seized park brake cables, and general brake condition.

 

[Dantheman1540]

6-lug or 8-lug? Big difference in part numbers if not in general design, although the rotors and hubs are totally different with the 8-lug being difficult.

What brake option code? JB/JD6? JB/JD7? Something else?


INSPECT your steering/suspension components before buying replacements. There's the possibility with today's Communist Chinese-sourced parts, that the stuff you have is better than the new-in-the-box stuff you'd be buying.

That said, with 145K on it already, and you expect it to be good for another 50K with no attention...you're probably going to replace ALL the suspension joints, and certainly ALL the rubber including the bump-stops.

Some folks will replace the entire upper control arm. Gets you fresh rubber control arm bushings and fresh upper ball joints. Lower control arms are...tougher. You'll likely be putting ball joints and control arm bushings into the arms you have, or Treasure Yard replacements. If you buy lower arms from the Treasure Yard, you can rebuild them and swap 'em in quickly. (Assumes you can pry the original arms off of the torsion bar, which I was not smart enough to do when I rebuilt the arms on my '88 K1500. Since then, I've learned that a two-jaw gear puller can force the torsion bar out of the socket on the control arm.) I generally prefer Polyurethane control arm bushing inserts, but I put "new" aftermarket upper arms with the included rubber bushings on my '97 K2500.

Sway bar bushings and end links will be required. With those removed, the CV shaft(s) should be easy to replace if needed.

Then there's the Pitman arm, the idler arm, and the idler arm bracket. Be sure to inspect the shock absorbers, steering knuckles and the bearing hubs. 8-lug trucks that need rotors or bearing hubs become a "real" job. 6-lug truck are no particular problem for the hubs, and the rotors just fall off, maybe with a little persuasion of the hammer sort.

You'll need to deal with the steering shaft rag joint. Trucks newer than '95 are more limited in replacement options. But the original joint is pretty-much guaranteed to be wiped-out. Common problem. Search for "rag joint" on this web site for about three hundred pages of postings.

Be prepared to find all sorts of other issues as you take the suspension apart--PS pump, PS gear, rusted frame at the PS gear, brakes including metal tubes and rubber hoses, ABS, disgustingly contaminated brake fluid that needs to be flushed using a scan tool to chatter the ABS solenoid valves, ancient front or rear differential lube, leaking differential seals, etc.

It would be worth your time to inspect the rear suspension/brakes, too. Check for hatefully-rusted U-bolts, rotted leaf spring bushings, rear shocks, seized park brake cables, and general brake condition.

8 lug and it had the bigger drums in the rear before I swapped in a modern 9.5”sf with gmt800 2500 disks. So I’m assuming the brakes are JB7, almost positive.

You’re right I’m pretty much looking to do it all, it’s pushing 30 years old and I plan to abuse it, and trust it as a reliable vehicle. Getting some used LCAs and rebuilding them is a great idea, I had heard new ones were non existent which suckkksss, but I have a nice press.

Shocks are already fresh Bilstein 5165s, and I’m not worried about brakes or hubs if it’s something that can be replaced without getting another alignment. I have heard the 8 lug hub/brake combo mega blows to replace, but I doubt an alignment would be needed right?

I’m not a super fan of polyurethane bushings either if I can avoid them and use a high quality rubber instead. In my experience any little bit of extra stiffness translates horrible into the cab in washboard roads.

I somehow didn’t realize the steering shaft had a rag joint, those are such a crap option IMO. Is there an option with a Ujoint style shaft? I could probably whip one up if I had too. But if the original rag joint is still working a high quality replacement will probably be fine. I don’t plan to do steering box at this time either, since it doesn’t leak, there’s very minimal play, and the PS is plenty easy with these small tires.

Is there a particular ball joint brand? I know Moog problem solver is typically liked, I see Mevotech TXX on rock auto looks quality and cool with green boots.

 

[Tan1998K2500]

For your lower steering shafting, Cunningham machines (who you can find on this site) makes a lower for our trucks with a u joint if you want to go that route. I have one on my truck and it's been great

Ball joint wise, I've had very good luck with the mevotech ttx ball joints

 

[Caman96]

I don’t plan to ever run bigger than a 285/70/17 tire

That is going to have an impact. There are a few Kryptonite parts you could weave in, you won’t find a Super Steer SS170 though, although apparently Kryptonite has been threatening to make one the last few years. This is what I did, easier than finding a link for each part:

Eye Candy

www.gmt400.com

2 years later still solid, no difference.

 

[Dantheman1540]

That is going to have an impact. There are a few Kryptonite parts you could weave in, you won’t find a Super Steer SS170 though, although apparently Kryptonite has been threatening to make one the last few years. This is what I did, easier than finding a link for each part:

Eye Candy

www.gmt400.com

2 years later still solid, no difference.

That combo looks great!

And yeah if I’m keeping the ifs I’m not running big tires on it. Maybe one day it will get a one ton sas but I think it would actually ruin the truck for me.

 

[Dantheman1540]

That is going to have an impact. There are a few Kryptonite parts you could weave in, you won’t find a Super Steer SS170 though, although apparently Kryptonite has been threatening to make one the last few years. This is what I did, easier than finding a link for each part:

Eye Candy

www.gmt400.com

2 years later still solid, no difference.

Are the idlers that big of a problem in these trucks? I have a super nice double sheer idler in my old 2005 RCSB I’m parting out.

 

[Caman96]

IDK…but I don’t believe less is more in this application.

 

[GoToGuy]

So right, eight bolt 2500, but rear was swapped to 9.5. With discs and semi float or full float axles ?

 

[BNielsen]

Go look at a few posts by @Caman96 for his front end rebuild; although his truck is a K1500 most of the parts are the same excluding certain things like lower balljoints. @offroadtahoe also has extensive posts regarding beefed up front end components.
I've taken quite a bit of inspiration from both of them parts selection wise; I recently installed Mevotech TTX balljoints on my 96 K2500 and they're lightyears beefier than the old Moogs I had before.

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As far as steering wise, I've got Proforged pitman, idler, and idler arm bracket waiting to be installed; I'm debating between Mevotech TTX tie-rods and Kryptonite tie-rods since I'd like to do the NBS knuckle mod down the road for better breaking. There's a whole 'nother can of worms for that modification though.

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Some other little things like polyurethane bushings from Energy Suspension to replace the worn out rubber, I have a Cunningham Machine steering shaft to swap in and I'm weighing my options with replacing the power steering pump and steering box.
There's other little things like Cognito braces that seem like a fantastic investment for front end longevity as well. I'm slowly chipping away at collecting parts for my front end rebuild and I'm thoroughly impressed by the quality of the parts I've obtained so far.