Steering and Abs

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extramile71

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Ok guys I got a question..really 2 questions..my 1998 k1500 has sloppy steering..I've deleted the evo..can I change the flow valve in the pump to help?any suggestions?..and the dreaded abs stinks on this truck wanting to do a delete but need guidance on this too thanks in advance
 

V2Linda

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I've heard a lot a bout replacing your 'ragdoll' joint in your lower steering shaft. I've got it on my list. My truck drives straight but there is a lot of side2side play.
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extramile71

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I've heard a lot a bout replacing your 'ragdoll' joint in your lower steering shaft. I've got it on my list. My truck drives straight but there is a lot of side2side play.
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Have done that already ..thanks at idle perfect steering at highway speeds really bad
 

Schurkey

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1998 k1500

has sloppy steering..I've deleted the evo.
Verify ALL the rest of the steering/suspension components:
Upper and lower ball joints
Upper and lower control arm bushings
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Pitman arm
Idler arm (2 pieces)
Wheel bearings/hubs
Sway bar/mounts/end links
Tires/wheels including tire pressure and condition, tight lug nuts, wheels not cracked, etc.

AFTER you have assured that the steering/suspension is in good condition, you may want to play games with the steering box and/or the PS pump.

and the dreaded abs stinks on this truck wanting to do a delete but need guidance on this too thanks in advance
Don't delete it. Fix it. Probably by bleeding the entire brake system, flushing out the old fluid and replacing with fresh--INCLUDING auto-bleed of the ABS unit which likely has not been done since the truck was new.

While you have the scan tool connected to do the auto-bleed, verify the speed sensors as they're the most-common cause of ABS problems.

I've heard a lot a bout replacing your 'ragdoll' joint
"Rag" joint--not ragdoll. Name comes from the fabric reinforcement vulcanized within the rubber coupler.

ULTRA-common problem with these trucks. The safety-stops on the metal part of the joint will be polished from hitting each other because the flexible rubber/fabric coupler is totally wiped-out.

The best solution is to eliminate the rag joint entirely in favor of a U-joint; which is fairly easy on the '94-older GMT400s that don't have damned Air bags. NOT so easy on GMT400s with air bags, most '95 and newer. There's a zillion-page thread about this with part numbers and suggestions in the Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits forum.
 
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V2Linda

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The best solution is to eliminate the rag joint entirely in favor of a U-joint; which is fairly easy on the '94-older GMT400s that don't have damned Air bags. NOT so easy on GMT400s with air bags, most '95 and newer. There's a zillion-page thread about this with part numbers and suggestions in the Stock Suspension + Bolt On Kits forum.
Thank you for this information. I had done research and came to the conclusion that the u-joint retrofit wouldn't last based off other's reviews.
Once again, I'll definitely look through these forums for more specifics.
 

1project2many

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I love these trucks. I really believe GMT400's to be the last best GM truck. But the steering just sucks. I've been working on them since 91, and have owned three 99 'burbs in a row.

After checking and confirming everything in the front end is good, if you want improvements, there are a few things that can help. It's good if you can decide what you're after. Super easy steering can feel sloppy. Bad alignment can feel sloppy. Ask youself if you have to keep correcting the truck on the highway or while you're on a flat road. Ask youself how much the steering wheel turns before the wheels start to turn. Ask yourself if the truck feels like it wants to rock n roll as you change direction. Each of those issues points to a different fix.

First, the feel at the wheel is created by a valve inside the box. The valve can be tuned to provide more or less assistance so the wheel takes more or less effort before the power steering kicks in. GMT400 trucks with variable effort steering are given the lowest effort system. When the truck is on the highway an electronic valve at the pump will turn on and bypass fluid around the power steering box so there's less assistance. At low speed the system delivers full assist by leaving the solenoid off. If you disconnect this system without making any other changes you're truck steering will go to full assist, and the feel will be like a '70s land yaht. If you are going to disconnect the system, both GM and Dorman offer a kit to remove the electronic valve and replace it with a traditional valve with better steering feel.

One of the more frustrating parts of the GMT400 steering system for me has always been the Iidler arm. Even new they have some vertical motion at the center link. This is not how and idler is expected to behave. I finally broke down and purchased a replacement idler arm bearing from Supersteer. Not cheap but it makes a difference.

Make sure the sway bar bushings and end links are in good condition. Roll control is important to how the truck feels on the road.

If the truck feels like it needs a bunch of correction on the highway you may want to have alignment checked. These trucks really benefit from setting caster to the low end of specs. Lower caster settings help the wheels want to return to straight ahead, like a shopping cart wheel, and caster doesn't cause tire wear.

After this if you still want improvements it's time for more serious changes. I'm running a ZQ8 steering box from an S10 along with the variable effort steering box. I like the way it feels but it's not for everyone.

Good luck.
 

Schurkey

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First, the feel at the wheel is created by a valve inside the box.
Valving, "assist", and torsion-bar diameter within the steering gearbox.

These trucks really benefit from setting caster to the low end of specs. Lower caster settings help the wheels want to return to straight ahead, like a shopping cart wheel, and caster doesn't cause tire wear.
Less a matter of "low" caster, more a matter of "less negative/more positive" caster.
 
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